Des Guepes

Adjacent Areas
< Gastronome  |  Le Nez >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Level
25 mins

Some striking lines that weave their way to the summit ridge make this a great spot. The harder wall climbs are also well worth seeking out but expect a tough time. Guidebook page 132.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ça Va Saigner
1) 6a+. A huge first pitch. 2) 6c
 
1 Stars
6c
2
L'Aéroplane Blindé
1) 6a. A poor approach pitch. 2) 7a. The cracked grey wall is the first of a trio of hard 'grey' wall climbs.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
3
Le Bandar Fou
1) 6a, 2) 6c. The fantastic big corner, and as good as it looks.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Planéité
1) 6a, 2) 7a+
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
5
Le Salaire de la Peur
1) 6a, 2) 7b+
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7b+
6
L'Aéroplane
1) 4+, 2) 5. The right-hand variation is 6a. 3) 6b. Can be aided to bring the overall grade down to 5. 4) 3
 
2 Stars
6b
7
L'Aéroplane Direct
1) 5, 2) 6b. The corner crack with interest.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
8
Xinibition

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
9
L'Univers des Rêves
1) 6b, 2) 6b+. A wild excursion across the headwall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
6b+
10
Tao
1) 6a+, 2) 5+
 
1 Stars
6a
11
Y Mao
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
12
Le Pillier Gris Top 50
1) 5, 2) 5 / 5+. Left line is 5, the right 5+.
 
3 Stars
5+
13
Les Initiateurs
1) 6a, 2) 6a
 
1 Stars
6a
14
Les Guêpes (Normale)
1) 5. Avoid following the bolts into the orange gully at the end of this pitch. 2) 5, 3) 5
 
2 Stars
5
15
La Directe des Guêpes
1) 5+, 2) 5+. Two variations both the same grade. 3) 6a
 
1 Stars
6a
16
Les Trois Mousquetons
1) 5, 2) 6b. Photo on this page.
 
3 Stars
6b
17
La Zaza
1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6a+. There are three options for the final pitch - all the same grade. The left line splits offering a fine...
 
1 Stars
6b
  • Latest Comments

    For SAINT JULIEN

    Xinibition
    "Some crumbly rock and spaced bolts...so with a potential to go a long way if you..." 23/Sep

    La Rampe
    "Pitch 3 certainly felt hard for 6a" 15/Oct

    La Gastronome
    "Worth 3 stars for the move out of the cave and airily round to the face on pitch..." 31/May top50

    Le Pilier des Trous
    "It is hard for 6a+ - the new French guide gives this first pitch 6C. I think 6b+..." 30/Dec

    Les Lames
    "very diffficult to discern where the top belay is on this - the topo is wrong on..." 12/Apr

    Le Pilier des Trous
    "Addendum: Local guide gives this 6b, 6b, 6a and a height of 105m. We found a 40m..." 01/Apr

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