Upper Wall - Right

Adjacent Areas
< Upper Wall - Left  |  The Terrace >

Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

One of the most impressive shear walls in the country that is positioned high above the base of the Cove - exposure is guaranteed right from the first move. The rock toward the left-hand side is immaculate but further right, around the chunky tufa of Gorgon Direct there are one or two loose spots. The climbing is extremely fingery, technical and sustained. This section is as dry and almost as sheltered as the lower walls with the capping roof protecting the pitches from the rain. It is also a good sun-trap but can suffer from seepage.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Free and Easy
Wildly exposed climbing, which is also part of the routes Totally Free and Totally Free ll. Traverse to a hanging belay to...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
2
Centrespread
A super-exposed link between both sides of the upper wall, usually done from right to left. Continue the traverse of Free and...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
3
Renaissance
The line of bolts that leads up from halfway across to the Free and Easy starting belay. A superbly-positioned wall climb...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
4
Breach of the Peace
An amazing roof above the Renaissance belay that has some surprising holds and yawning exposure. A variation is an Uneasy...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
5
Climb of the Century
Very technical wall climbing on tiny holds. Linking into Breach of the Peace gives Cover to Cover, 8b.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
6
L'Ob Session
A superb and exposed route featuring a fierce lower third and a very sustained slim groove above.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
7
Obsession Top 50
One of Yorkshire's most coveted sport climbs. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
8
Total Eclipse
The massive roof above the Obsession lower-off.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
9
The New Age Traveller
Sustained wall climbing just left of the longest of the three grey tufa streaks to a hard move near the top. Only 7c+ if you go...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
10
N'Obsession
An attempt at the middle tufa; however it shares a few moves with Herbie before moving left to the channel between the two...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
11
Herbie
The right-hand tufa is hard to reach and pumpy thereafter. It has become popular to finish on the left, before the upper tufa....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
12
Conehead
A sustained and extremely fingery route up the blank wall right of the tufas.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
13
Main Overhang
The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The roof above the...
14 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
14
Toadal Recall
A featureless section of wall with sustained, technical and powerful climbing.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
15
The Toad of Beck Hall
To the left of the undercut, crimpy climbing gains a hard finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
16
Toad Licker
A short and tough line just right of the prominent undercut.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
17
Toadally Cool
The leftward-slanting flakeline to a poor shake at 10m. Trend right to finish at the Serious Young Toads belay.
 
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
18
Serious Young Toads
This line looks a bit scrappy from below but it has some quality sustained and sequency moves on good rock.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
19
The Last Toad
A direct on The Last Waltz which gains the left-hand end of the undercut then finishes straight up to a ledge and lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7b+
20
Conceptual
A half-route which has become a popular tick in its own right but is a bit of an eliminate and has some reachy clips.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
21
Conceptual Continuity
The full pitch is harder and better. From the lower-off ledge swing over the roof rightwards past a small groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
22
The Last Waltz
Worthwhile and popular with some good independent climbing. Place some gear (or clip the bolts to the left) and climb the wall...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
23
Seventh Toad
As for The Last Waltz to the bolt then climb straight up the scary wall above. A thread (not usually in place) is required on...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
24
Gorgon Direct
A fine historical route that is high in the grade. The upper section is in the bird ban area so check before climbing.
 
2 Stars
Banned
E5 6b
25
Gorgon Quite Direct
The modern way of climbing the route follows holes to the pillar. Then step right under the pillar and climb the groove on the...
 
2 Stars
E4 6b
26
Duck Dive
A near sport route (7a+). Follow the wall (wire) past pegs to a hard move for a bolt. Pass this then go right to a belay.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
27
Jilted John
Climb to the bolt on Duck Dive and then continue up a shallow groove to a lower-off.
 E5 6a
28
Gravity
A popular half-pitch. Climb the centre of the wall past three gold bolts (thread on the right) to a ledge and lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
29
Wicked Gravity
The full route keeps going over the roof.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
30
Donald Ducked
Climb the right-hand edge of the wall past a single bolt. Move up (peg) then left to finish on the ledge.
 
Technical
E5 6b
31
Laughter
The crumbling pillar right of the loose corners. Poor.
 
Loose
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For MALHAM

    Twisted
    "My video of this is on my youtube page, type in Ted Twisted 8a and it will come ..." 18/Oct

    Slender Loris
    "Was my first E3 (sic) - sandbagged by mates who recommended it knowing it was to..." 23/Sep

    Junkyard Angel
    "Nice route but not as good as Crossbones/East Route combo I reckon." 14/May top50

    Slender Loris
    "outstanding route!!!" 12/May

    The New Age Traveller
    "Felt a bit easier than L'Ob Session and much easier than Baboo" 14/Jun

    Carnage
    "P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should..." 01/Jun

    Sychophants
    "Fierce middle section, felt high in the grade to me." 22/Mar

    Hands of Time
    "Good route - starting the steeper 2nd half leading up to the Space Race kneebar ..." 24/Oct

    Predator
    "Awesome route, lots of moves (i did around 70) and a complex crux. Route has its..." 19/Oct

    Carnage
    "2 very contrasting pitches, my partner took the 1st pitch up the crack and took ..." 28/Sep

    Swingover
    "The top wall felt really tough and sustained for VS to me. In comparison the cr..." 15/Jul

    Doubting Thomas
    "I have removed both the jammed wires today its no longer a clip up!" 10/Jul

    Midnight Cowboy
    "Very substantial for the size - bold bits, delicate bits, steep bits, and expose..." 03/Jun top50

    Just Not in Lust
    "Underated route which is well worth two stars. Very technical sequency crux with..." 24/May

    Carnage Left-hand
    "p1: Description does not quite match what we found. There are several trees/sapl..." 04/May

    Space Race
    "awsome route. as andy says, technical but sharp first third to a powerful middle..." 22/Apr

    Straightened
    "Found this definately harder than baboo. The start moves and subsequent laybacki..." 30/Mar

    Baboo-Baboo
    "8a in the Yorkshire guide, 8a on UKC, 8a at the crag. A soft one IMHO, but 8a. A..." 25/Mar

    Gravity
    "A good lower wall. The upper section is terrifying in that it feels so incredibl..." 02/Sep

    Obsession
    "Ermmm, might truly deserve 7c now. I pulled off the finishing undercut jug yeste..." 30/Aug top50

    Bad Brain
    "I have removed the jammed wire next to the peg. It had gone rusty and its medium..." 21/Jul

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