Obsession Area

Adjacent Areas
< Cadenza Area  |  The Terrace >

Sport
Lots of sun!
12 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

This area is one of the most impressively-positioned walls in the Country situated high above the lower walls and Malham Beck with exposure is guaranteed right from the first move. The rock is generally immaculate although there are one or two loose spots especially further right, around the chunky tufa of Gorgon. The climbing tends to be extremely fingery, technical and sustained and on-sights ascents are rare occurrences.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Free and Easy
20m. Hard and exposed climbing up the centre of the upper wall which is also part of the route Totally Free. Traverse in to a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
2
Renaissance
20m. The line of bolts which leads up from half way across to the Free and Easy starting belay. A superbly-positioned wall...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
3
Breach of the Peace
12m. One of the few routes to make the cover photo of two guidebooks. An amazing roof above Renaissance with some suprising...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
4
Climb of the Century
20m. Very technical wall climbing on tiny holds.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
5
L'Ob Session
20m. The line above the far left-hand end of the ledge. A superb and exposed route featuring a fierce lower third and very...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
6
Obsession Top 50
20m. One of the more popular routes in Yorkshire. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
7
Total Eclipse
12m. The massive roof above Obsession is a contender for the hardest sport route in Britain. It is not known if the route is...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
9a
8
The New Age Traveller
20m. Sustained wall climbing just left of the longest of the three grey tufa streaks. Low in the grade.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
9
N'Obsession
20m. An attempt at the middle tufa, however it shares a few moves with Herbie then moves left to the channel between the 2...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
10
Herbie
20m. The right-hand tufa is hard to reach and pumpy there after. Has become popular to finish on the left, before the upper...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
11
Conehead
20m. A sustained and extremely fingery route up the blank wall right of the tufas.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
12
Main Overhang
17m. The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The gear comes from...
14 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
13
Toadal Recall
18m. Another feature-less bolt line with mega-sustained technical and fingery climbing.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
14
The Toad of Beck Hall
10m. Left of the undercut. A old sandbag at 7b.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
15
Toad Licker
10m. A short line just right of the prominent undercut.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
16
Toadally Cool
18m. The leftward-slanting flakeline to a poor shake at 10m. Finish at Serious Young Toads belay.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
17
Serious Young Toads
18m. This looks a bit scrappy from below but it actually has some quality moves which are sustained and sequency
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
18
The Last Toad
17m. A direct on Last Waltz which gains the left-hand end of the undercut then finishes straight up.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7b+
19
Conceptual
22m. A half-route which has become a popular tick in its own right but is a bit eliminate in nature and has some reachy clips.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
20
Conceptual Continuity
22m. The full pitch is harder and better. From the ledge swing over the roof rightwards past a small groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
21
The Last Waltz
18m. Almost redundant now but still with some good, independent climbing. Place some gear (or clip the bolts to the left) and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a+
22
Seventh Toad
17m. As for Last Waltz to the bolt then motor straight up the scary wall above. A thread (not usually in place) is required on...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
23
Gorgan Direct
22m. A fine historical route which now sees few ascents since the belay takes you onto a banned section of the crag. You are...
 7b
24
Gorgan Directish
17m. The modern way of climbing the route follows holes to the pillar. Then step right under the pillar and climb the groove on...
 
2 Stars
7b
25
Duck Dive
17m. A near sport route (7a+). Folow the wall (wire) past two pegs to a hard move for a bolt. Pass this then climb rightwards...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
26
Gravity
22m. A popular half-pitch. Climb the centre of the wall past three gold bolts (and thread on the right) to a ledge.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
27
Wicked Gravity
22m. The full route keeps going over the roof.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
28
Donald Ducked
17m. Climb the right-hand edge of the wall past a single bolt. Move up (peg) then left to finish on the ledge.
 
Technical
E5 6b
29
Laughter
22m. The crumbling pillar right of the loose corners. Poor.
 
Loose
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For MALHAM

    Twisted
    "My video of this is on my youtube page, type in Ted Twisted 8a and it will come ..." 18/Oct

    Slender Loris
    "Was my first E3 (sic) - sandbagged by mates who recommended it knowing it was to..." 23/Sep top50

    Junkyard Angel
    "Nice route but not as good as Crossbones/East Route combo I reckon." 14/May top50

    Slender Loris
    "outstanding route!!!" 12/May top50

    The New Age Traveller
    "Felt a bit easier than L'Ob Session and much easier than Baboo" 14/Jun

    Carnage
    "P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should..." 01/Jun

    Sychophants
    "Fierce middle section, felt high in the grade to me." 22/Mar

    Hands of Time
    "Good route - starting the steeper 2nd half leading up to the Space Race kneebar ..." 24/Oct

    Predator
    "Awesome route, lots of moves (i did around 70) and a complex crux. Route has its..." 19/Oct

    Carnage
    "2 very contrasting pitches, my partner took the 1st pitch up the crack and took ..." 28/Sep

    Swingover
    "The top wall felt really tough and sustained for VS to me. In comparison the cr..." 15/Jul

    Doubting Thomas
    "I have removed both the jammed wires today its no longer a clip up!" 10/Jul

    Midnight Cowboy
    "Very substantial for the size - bold bits, delicate bits, steep bits, and expose..." 03/Jun top50

    Just Not in Lust
    "Underated route which is well worth two stars. Very technical sequency crux with..." 24/May

    Carnage Left-hand
    "p1: Description does not quite match what we found. There are several trees/sapl..." 04/May

    Space Race
    "awsome route. as andy says, technical but sharp first third to a powerful middle..." 22/Apr

    Straightened
    "Found this definately harder than baboo. The start moves and subsequent laybacki..." 30/Mar

    Baboo-Baboo
    "8a in the Yorkshire guide, 8a on UKC, 8a at the crag. A soft one IMHO, but 8a. A..." 25/Mar

    Gravity
    "A good lower wall. The upper section is terrifying in that it feels so incredibl..." 02/Sep

    Obsession
    "Ermmm, might truly deserve 7c now. I pulled off the finishing undercut jug yeste..." 30/Aug top50

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