Adjacent Areas
< Cadenza Area | The Terrace >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
12 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
This area is one of the most impressively-positioned walls in the Country situated high above the lower walls and Malham Beck with exposure is guaranteed right from the first move. The rock is generally immaculate although there are one or two loose spots especially further right, around the chunky tufa of Gorgon. The climbing tends to be extremely fingery, technical and sustained and on-sights ascents are rare occurrences. Guidebook page 294.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Free and Easy 20m. Hard and exposed climbing up the centre of the upper wall which is also part of the route Totally Free. Traverse in to a... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
2 |
Renaissance 20m. The line of bolts which leads up from half way across to the Free and Easy starting belay. A superbly-positioned wall... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
3 |
Breach of the Peace 12m. One of the few routes to make the cover photo of two guidebooks. An amazing roof above Renaissance with some suprising... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
4 |
Climb of the Century 20m. Very technical wall climbing on tiny holds. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8b |
5 |
L'Ob Session 20m. The line above the far left-hand end of the ledge. A superb and exposed route featuring a fierce lower third and very... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
6 |
Obsession Top 50 20m. One of the more popular routes in Yorkshire. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade. 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
7 |
Total Eclipse 12m. The massive roof above Obsession is a contender for the hardest sport route in Britain. It is not known if the route is... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 9a |
8 |
The New Age Traveller 20m. Sustained wall climbing just left of the longest of the three grey tufa streaks. Low in the grade. 7 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
9 |
N'Obsession 20m. An attempt at the middle tufa, however it shares a few moves with Herbie then moves left to the channel between the 2... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
10 |
Herbie 20m. The right-hand tufa is hard to reach and pumpy there after. Has become popular to finish on the left, before the upper... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
11 |
Conehead 20m. A sustained and extremely fingery route up the blank wall right of the tufas. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8a+ |
12 |
Main Overhang 17m. The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The gear comes from... 14 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
13 |
Toadal Recall 18m. Another feature-less bolt line with mega-sustained technical and fingery climbing. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy Crimpy | 8a |
14 |
The Toad of Beck Hall 10m. Left of the undercut. A old sandbag at 7b. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
15 |
Toad Licker 10m. A short line just right of the prominent undercut. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
16 |
Toadally Cool 18m. The leftward-slanting flakeline to a poor shake at 10m. Finish at Serious Young Toads belay. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a+ |
17 |
Serious Young Toads 18m. This looks a bit scrappy from below but it actually has some quality moves which are sustained and sequency 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
18 |
The Last Toad 17m. A direct on Last Waltz which gains the left-hand end of the undercut then finishes straight up. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 7b+ |
19 |
Conceptual 22m. A half-route which has become a popular tick in its own right but is a bit eliminate in nature and has some reachy clips. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
20 |
Conceptual Continuity 22m. The full pitch is harder and better. From the ledge swing over the roof rightwards past a small groove. | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a |
21 |
The Last Waltz 18m. Almost redundant now but still with some good, independent climbing. Place some gear (or clip the bolts to the left) and... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | 7a+ |
22 |
Seventh Toad 17m. As for Last Waltz to the bolt then motor straight up the scary wall above. A thread (not usually in place) is required on... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
23 |
Gorgan Direct 22m. A fine historical route which now sees few ascents since the belay takes you onto a banned section of the crag. You are... | 7b | |
24 |
Gorgan Directish 17m. The modern way of climbing the route follows holes to the pillar. Then step right under the pillar and climb the groove on... | 2 Stars | 7b |
25 |
Duck Dive 17m. A near sport route (7a+). Folow the wall (wire) past two pegs to a hard move for a bolt. Pass this then climb rightwards... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
26 |
Gravity 22m. A popular half-pitch. Climb the centre of the wall past three gold bolts (and thread on the right) to a ledge. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
27 |
Wicked Gravity 22m. The full route keeps going over the roof. | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8b |
28 |
Donald Ducked 17m. Climb the right-hand edge of the wall past a single bolt. Move up (peg) then left to finish on the ledge. | Technical | E5 6b |
29 |
Laughter 22m. The crumbling pillar right of the loose corners. Poor. | Loose | 7c+ |
