Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 minsA maximum of five minutes walk from the road, peppered in classic routes, and right next to Eric's Cafe and campsite, Bwlch y Moch will be popular for ever. The rock is clean (sometimes an little too clean!), the gear is generally good and all the recent work on the paths has eased the approaches greatly. Guidebook page 32.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Valerie's Rib A popular route which makes the most of the broad rib on the left end of the crag.Start at the toe of the buttress, below a... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | HS |
2 |
The Grasper The approach is a little awkward but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
3 |
The Neb Direct A great route with a fine open first pitch and a sensational and brutal final roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 6a |
4 |
Christmas Curry/Micah Finish Top 50 One of the most popular routes in North Wales with fine open climbing (and lots of people). Start below a short chimney. Photo... 2 user comments | 3 Stars | HS 4b |
5 |
The Plum Top 50 A brilliant route with a bit of everything. Start at the base of the gully, right of the arete.45m. Climb a short corner... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
6 |
The Fang Great climbing up and left of the huge fang.1) 5a, 25m. Climb a crack to a pinnacle. Move left and climb a corner onto the... | 3 Stars Technical | HVS 5a |
7 |
Extraction A fine counter line to The Fang.1) 5c, 25m. Climb The Fang to the top of the pinnacle, then pull straight up the crack... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E2 5c |
8 |
Striptease The steep gully is better than you might expect and stays dry in light rain.1) 5a, 40m. Climb the chimney and pull around... | 2 Stars | VS 5a |
9 |
Hail Bebe A fun way up the best cliff at Tremdog. Pitch two is a bit of a mud-fest but is more than compensated for by the upper pitches.... | 2 Stars | VD |
10 |
One Step in the Clouds Top 50 A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. Very popular and often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress... 1 user comment | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
11 |
Diadic A pleasant, direct eliminate that includes the final groove of Vector.1) 4b, 25m. As for One Step in the Clouds.2) 5b,... | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
12 |
Nimbus Relatively easy climbing with one hard move but in a great position. The Snake finish gives an even better combination at E2... | 1 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
13 |
The Weaver The most direct line on this complex buttress, despite its name!1) 5b, 12m. GIVEN 4B IN THE GUIDEBOOK BY MISTAKE. Climb an... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
14 |
Cream Top 50 A great finishing crack with good approach.Photo on page 25.1) 5a, 15m. As for Vector.2) 5c, 20m. Climb up, then... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
15 |
Vector Top 50 Possibly the most famous route at Tremadog. It is showing signs of over-climbing, and does get very chalky, but the positions... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E2 5c |
16 |
Void Another great route which is eliminate in its lower section but finishes in a superb position on the headwall. Start up and... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 6a |
17 |
Grim Wall Direct Direct but not very grim, unless someone abseils on your head, which does happen! Start right of the vegetated gully.1) 5b,... | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
18 |
Grim Wall Top 50 A good diagonal line leading to a fine finish. Start below the chimney of Shadrach.1) 4b, 30m. Climb up left into a scoop.... | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
19 |
Meshach Top 50 A popular climb with a great second pitch. Start below the chimney of Shadrach.1) 4c, 32m. Climb up left to a small ledge.... | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
20 |
Shadrach A thrutchy chimney leading to more open climbing above. Another popular one. Start below the chimney. Photo on page 3.1)... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
21 |
The Brothers A worthy alternative to Meshach and Shadrach. Start as for Shadrach.1) 4b, 30m. Move right to a crack and climb this. At... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
22 |
Nifl-Heim This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a short chimney.1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large... | 2 Stars Graunchy | VS 5a |
23 |
Pretzl Logic A wandering route with a good finish. Start at a big tree just left of the pod of Venom.1) 5b, 15m. Climb slabby rock to a... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
24 |
Venom The smooth groove gives a superb, technical bridging problem.1) 6a, 15m. Stem up the groove and exit left to the Leg Slip... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E3 6a |
25 |
Leg Slip Another fine groove climb with technical climbing and superb positions. Start below the prominent groove on the right of the... | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
26 |
First Slip The right-hand Slip is even more technical.1) 5c, 35m. As for Leg Slip but move right at the top of the groove to gain a... | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
27 |
Daddy Cool The vegetated bay has one decent route on its left-hand side. Start below the open groove in the centre of the bay.1) 4c,... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
28 |
Merlin Direct Top 50 Another popular route which sees plenty of traffic. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the slab. 1) 4c, 20m.... | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
29 |
Geireagle Precarious balancy climbing up an overhanging wall - how does it do that?1) 5c, 38m. Follow Merlin to gain the rampline.... | 2 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
30 |
Vulture All the strenuous climbing that you would expect on Geireagle seems to have been transferred to this one. Very pumpy!38m.... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6a |
31 |
Y Broga An extra-polished first pitch leads to more-open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall.1) 5a,... | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
32 |
Oberon A varied route with commodious belay stances and a technical first pitch.1) 4b, 15m. Climb the polished crack on the right... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | S 4b |
33 |
Boo Boo Left-hand Delightful slab climbing on rough rock up a cleaned line. Scramble round to the left up a vague tree-covered path to gain a... | 1 Stars | D |
34 |
Yogi A technical first pitch gives access to the well-positioned upper flake-crack.1) 4b, 20m. Start at the foot of the arete.... | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
