The Right Wing - Carnage Wall

Adjacent Areas
< The Terrace  |  The Right Wing - Wombat Wall >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

Up and to the right of the dominating central wall of Malham Cove is the Right Wing. Its impending walls are split by long horizontal breaks and is one of the finest limestone trad venues in Yorkshire. The left-hand side - Carnage Wall - is the highest section of the cliff and has some fine two pitch classics. There are a number of other trad pitches on this wall that are not described here being seldom climbed and largely neglected. The wall is sunny and tends not to seep much although the first pitch of Carnage takes time to dry and clean-up.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carnage
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced. 1) 5b,...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2 5b
2
Second Coming
Start in the Carnage cave. Climb Carnage to the break. Move right and up before moving back left again and climbing to a...
 
2 Stars
E5 6b
3
Chasing the Dragon
A superb trad route, which is sadly neglected. 1) 6b, 22m. Climb the crack to the bulge (peg on the left). Move left through...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
More Monkey Than Funky
The first pitch is loose and the second excellent but bold. 1) 5c, 24m. Climb a thin crack and then move right to join and...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
5
Mulatto Wall
An excellent and fairly popular route. 1) 5c, 19m. Climb the wall leftwards to a vague grassy groove. Follow it, past a peg, to...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
El Coronel
A neglected classic with two fine and sustained pitches. 1) 6b, 21m. Move up to a bush then head leftwards to a peg and jammed...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
7
Bad Brain
A wandering line but with some good climbing. 1) 6a, 17m. Follow El Coronel to its peg and jammed wire. Pull up and left to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
8
Seventh Grade
Two hard pitches up the right edge of the wall. 1) 6b, 22m. Gain the bulge (loose) and an old bolt by a rightward curving line....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
9
Carnage Left-hand
A magnificent route for the grade taking in some impressive positions. Start up right below a large hanging corner. 1) 5b, 17m....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
10
Scorpio
A stiff first pitch to a choice of finishes. Start up on the right below a large hanging corner. 1) 5b, 10m. As for Carnage LH...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For MALHAM

    Twisted
    "My video of this is on my youtube page, type in Ted Twisted 8a and it will come ..." 18/Oct

    Slender Loris
    "Was my first E3 (sic) - sandbagged by mates who recommended it knowing it was to..." 23/Sep

    Junkyard Angel
    "Nice route but not as good as Crossbones/East Route combo I reckon." 14/May top50

    Slender Loris
    "outstanding route!!!" 12/May

    The New Age Traveller
    "Felt a bit easier than L'Ob Session and much easier than Baboo" 14/Jun

    Carnage
    "P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should..." 01/Jun

    Sychophants
    "Fierce middle section, felt high in the grade to me." 22/Mar

    Hands of Time
    "Good route - starting the steeper 2nd half leading up to the Space Race kneebar ..." 24/Oct

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