The Right Wing - Carnage Wall

Adjacent Areas
< The Terrace  |  The Right Wing - Wombat Wall >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

Up and to the right of the dominating central wall of Malham Cove is the Right Wing. Its impending walls are split by long horizontal breaks and is one of the finest limestone trad venues in Yorkshire. The left-hand side - Carnage Wall - is the highest section of the cliff and has some fine two pitch classics. There are a number of other trad pitches on this wall that are not described here being seldom climbed and largely neglected. The wall is sunny and tends not to seep much although the first pitch of Carnage takes time to dry and clean-up.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sitting Ducks
After a rattly initial pitch the second leaves the cave and pulls on to the exposed headwall of The Terrace.1) 5c, 25m....
 E5
2
Amber Nectar
Climb a corner/groove to join Sitting Ducks and follow it to its good slot. Go right to an open groove and take this to a...
 
2 Stars
E6
3
Greystoke
From the tree of Sitting Ducks pull over the roof (peg) and climb the wall past horizontal breaks to the top. Reach via the...
 
2 Stars
E6
4
Carnage
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.1)...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2
5
Tarzan
A well positioned pitch, which starts from the Carnage cave at the top of its first pitch. Nip up the tree to the horizontal...
 
1 Stars
E4
6
Forth Coming
Start in the Carnage cave. Climb the tree and once on the rock climb direct to join Carnage Left-hand. Move up and right into...
 E5
7
Second Coming
Start in the Carnage cave. Climb Carnage to the break. Move up before moving back left and climbing to a protruding block below...
 
2 Stars
E5
8
Chasing the Dragon
A superb trad route, which is sadly neglected.1) 6b, 22m. Climb the crack to the bulge (peg on the left). Move left...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5
9
Going Ape
A single pitch that takes the wall between the first pitches of Chasing the Dragon and More Monkey Than Funky. Climb the wall...
 E5
10
More Monkey Than Funky
The first pitch is loose and the second excellent but bold.1) 5c, 24m. Climb a thin crack and then move right to join and...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E5
11
Mulatto Wall
An excellent and fairly popular route.1) 5c, 19m. Climb the wall leftwards to a vague grassy groove. Follow it, past a...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
12
El Coronel
A neglected classic with two fine and sustained pitches.1) 6b, 21m. Move up then head leftwards to a peg and jammed wire....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E5
13
Bad Brain
A wandering line but with some good climbing.1) 6a, 17m. Follow El Coronel to its peg and jammed wire. Pull up and left to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4
14
Over the Top
Follow the top pitch of Bad Brain to the start of its traverse left to join Mulatto Wall. Move right and climb the smooth, bold...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7
15
Third Party Only
1) 6b, 22m. Ascend the wall leftwards then right to the bulge. Overcome the bulge at some undercuts and take the wall above -...
 
Technical
E6
16
Seventh Grade
Two hard pitches up the right edge of the wall.1) 6b, 22m. Gain the bulge (loose) and an old bolt by a rightward curving...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
17
Rubble Without a Cause
Take the wall to moves right to join The Country of Man at a thread close to the arete. Go leftwards through the bulge to a...
 
Loose
E5
18
The Country of Man
The wall and bulge past a thread close to the arete.
 
Loose
E4
19
Carnage Left-hand
A magnificent route for the grade taking in some impressive positions. Start up right below a short hanging corner.1) 5b,...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
20
Scorpio
A stiff first pitch to a choice of finishes. Start up on the right below a large hanging corner.1) 5b, 10m. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
21
Pumpwater Meets the Hulk
A superb crossing of the Carnage Wall and The Terrace with ever increasing exposure. Start as for Wind and Wuthering.1)...
 
3 Stars
E5
  • Latest Comments

    For MALHAM COVE

    Conehead
    "Climb of the Century is a grade harder. That makes this 8a.." 04/Jan

    Twisted
    "My video of this is on my youtube page, type in Ted Twisted 8a and it will come ..." 18/Oct

    Slender Loris
    "Was my first E3 (sic) - sandbagged by mates who recommended it knowing it was to..." 23/Sep

    Junkyard Angel
    "Nice route but not as good as Crossbones/East Route combo I reckon." 14/May top50

    Slender Loris
    "outstanding route!!!" 12/May

    The New Age Traveller
    "Felt a bit easier than L'Ob Session and much easier than Baboo" 14/Jun

    Carnage
    "P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should..." 01/Jun

    Sychophants
    "Fierce middle section, felt high in the grade to me." 22/Mar

    Hands of Time
    "Good route - starting the steeper 2nd half leading up to the Space Race kneebar ..." 24/Oct

    Predator
    "Awesome route, lots of moves (i did around 70) and a complex crux. Route has its..." 19/Oct

    Carnage
    "2 very contrasting pitches, my partner took the 1st pitch up the crack and took ..." 28/Sep

    Swingover
    "The top wall felt really tough and sustained for VS to me. In comparison the cr..." 15/Jul

    Doubting Thomas
    "I have removed both the jammed wires today its no longer a clip up!" 10/Jul

    Midnight Cowboy
    "Very substantial for the size - bold bits, delicate bits, steep bits, and expose..." 03/Jun top50

    Just Not in Lust
    "Underated route which is well worth two stars. Very technical sequency crux with..." 24/May

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