East Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
90 mins
Uphill
Windy

One of the finest walls in the UK - this is the showpiece of the crag, a place of myths and legends, controversy and epics, triumphs and failures. The routes are all magnificent challenges and a visit is a must for every aspiring trad climber. This has been a proving ground for generations of climbers. Routes on the left require a scramble up and left before cutting back right to reach the Eastern Terrace descent. Routes on the right belay on the Eastern Terrace. Guidebook page 138.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sunset Crack
Good climbing up the prominent crack in a corner on the left-hand side of the wall.1) 4b, 42m. Scramble up to a grassy...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 5a
2
Llithrig
A great, historical classic that traditionally involves a tension traverse on P2. The route is HVS if done this way and many...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
3
Serth
A good line up the left-hand side of the Llithrig wall.1) 4a, 25m. Follow Sunset Crack to a stance below the corner by a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
4
Pigott's Climb
The original route of the East Buttress. It follows a series of huge stepped-corners. Start to the right of the main...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
5
Chimney Route
A good route if it is dry, otherwise it is a bit of a slimy nightmare. Start below a greasy chimney.1) 4a, 15m. Climb the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
6
Diglyph
A good route that allows some of the aura of the Great Wall to be experienced at an amenable grade. Start just left of the base...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
7
Daurigol
A superb test-piece up the grooves on the left of the Great Wall. Start below the left edge of the Great Wall. Surprisingly...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
8
Great Wall Top 50
One of the UK's milestone routes for any aspiring hard climber which traces a majestic line up this stunning wall with...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
9
Womb Bits
A searingly-thin direct line to the first belay of Great Wall. It is very similar to many of the great E5 slabs on slate, but...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
A Midsummer' Night's Dream
A long and challenging route with three big pitches up the Great Wall. Like Right Wall and Lord, the route is considered easier...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6a
11
Indian Face
Indian Face has established itself as the route of the 1980s. Seven repeats in the quarter of a century since it was first...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E9 6c
12
November
A magnificent, long crack-line that defines the right-hand edge of the Great Wall. Start on the grassy terrace below the crack...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
13
Jelly Roll Top 50
A sensational airy line up the grooves above Indian Face. Brilliant climbing at an unlikely grade for the situation.1) 5a,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
14
Vember
The original line using the November crack to start and one of the landmark routes of the Brown-Whillans era on Cloggy.1)...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
15
Curving Crack
One of the older climbs up the huge curving groove on the right side of the buttress. Something of a traditional thrutch, where...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
16
The Troach
A magnificent bold wall-climb giving open and exposed climbing on good holds with spaced protection.1) 4c, 10m. Climb the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2 5b
17
Pedestal Crack
The middle of the three long corners on this side of the buttress. Good climbing, but often wet. Starting up the first pitch of...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
18
Scorpio
A winding route which tackles the impressive wall between Pedestal Crack and The Corner. Great sustained climbing leading to a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2 5b
19
Silhouette
A great direct version to Scorpio, sharing its middle section. P2 is long, so take a large rack. Hard for the grade.1) 4b,...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
20
The Corner
'Cloggy Corner' is comparable to Cenotaph Corner in quality and is only slightly easier. It is often wet but can usually still...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For CLOGWYN DU'R ARDDU

    Chimney Route
    "Changed from S * to VS 4c *, no votes" 11/Oct

    Longland's Climb
    "Michael MichaelJarrettPhD@Gmail.com I did this route in 1968/69 it was absolut..." 05/May

    Jelly Roll
    "Just got do do it for that top pitch!" 15/Dec top50

    Shrike
    "Wonderful, beautiful route. One of the best I've done. But NOT E2, ever." 11/Jun

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