West Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Pinnacle  |  Far West Buttress >

Trad
Evening sun
90 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Windy

This complex set of slabs and walls in the centre of the West Buttress has some of the finest slab climbs around. Great exposure is offered on the routes which weave up above steep undercut starts. Approach (see map on page 136) - Sheaf is reached by scrambling down to the base of the Eastern Terrace. West Buttress Eliminate and White Slab are gained from the base of the crag. The Great Slab is reached by scrambling up the Western Terrace. Down the Eastern Terrace.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Left Edge
The 'easy' introduction to this slab follows the left edge as you would expect from the name. It gives amenable climbing with...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
2
The Boulder
A bit harder than its left-hand companion, it features a superb, bold and exposed traverse across the face.1) 4c, 15m. As...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
3
The Boldest
The best of the bunch takes a direct line up the Boulder. Often considered an E4 climber's Indian Face, the route features thin...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
4
The Black Cleft
Horrific and slippery climbing up the compellingly-obvious line - you have to really want to climb this one. The corner is...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
5
Longland's Climb
A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
6
Sheaf
A complex line that weaves up the West Buttress at a relatively friendly grade. Start at the base of the Eastern Terrace, just...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
7
West Buttress Eliminate
This superb climb takes the most direct line on this side of the West Buttress - 'eliminate' in name but certainly not...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
8
White Slab
One of the great Welsh Classics, with the other of Cloggy's great lasso/pendulums. Start about 30m right of the base of Eastern...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2 5c
9
Great-Bow Combination
A brilliant combination of pitches taking the best line up this side of the buttress. Rope up and scramble up for about 40m, as...
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
10
Great Slab
Another of the great Cloggy mountaineering routes, with only one technically demanding section up an often-damp corner. Other...
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
11
Bloody Slab
The best route on the right-hand side of the West Buttress tackles the clean red slab. Start by scrambling high up the Western...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For CLOGWYN DU'R ARDDU

    Chimney Route
    "Changed from S * to VS 4c *, no votes" 11/Oct

    Longland's Climb
    "Michael MichaelJarrettPhD@Gmail.com I did this route in 1968/69 it was absolut..." 05/May

    Jelly Roll
    "Just got do do it for that top pitch!" 15/Dec top50

    Shrike
    "Wonderful, beautiful route. One of the best I've done. But NOT E2, ever." 11/Jun

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