Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Level
5 minsWindy
Beautifully clean Welsh mountain-dolerite and a short walk-in make this a popular venue in the pass. Guidebook page 80.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Phantom Rib A great and popular climb up a series of ribs on the left-hand side of the buttress.1) 4b, 12m. On the wall are two... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
2 |
Nea A classic outing, taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a... | 2 Stars Technical | VS 4b |
3 |
Spectre The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS.1) 4c, 20m. Climb the thin crack to a small ledge on the right, go straight up... | 3 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
4 |
Spectrum A hard route with a steep start and a great second pitch.1) 5b, 14m. Climb up to the shattered overhang and pull round this... | 2 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
5 |
SS Special Superb crack and face climbing followed by a stiff pull through the roof.45m. Follow the right hand crack in the flat wall... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5b |
6 |
Sickle A good route, but hard for the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Start either side of the large flake. From the top of the flake climb the... | 2 Stars | HVS 5b |
7 |
Brant Direct Top 50 FA. P.Harding, J.Disley, P.Hodgkinson, G.Dyke 1949 | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5a |
8 |
Cockblock Top 50 FA. J.Redhead, C.Shorter, K.Robertson 1980 | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
9 |
Slape Direct Short and fierce.20m. Gain the leftward slanting crack from the right. Climb past a small quartz ledge and make hard moves... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
10 |
First Amendment The parallel line to Slape Direct gives a contrasting route.1) 5c, 20m. The thin crack leads to a junction with Brant.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
11 |
Brant FA. J.Edwards, J.Barford 1940 | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
12 |
Stroll On Pumpy climbing on good rock and gear.40m. Follow the confusing lower wall to a semi-rest under the small roof at 16m. Gird... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 6a |
13 |
Hangover A superb route with two contrasting pitches. High in the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Step right into the appealing groove, and climb... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E1 5b |
14 |
Quasar Top 50 Short but steep, the crux holds on the headwall sometimes seep.40m. Climb the groove (surprisingly awkward) to the... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 6a |
15 |
Karwendel Wall A cruxy route with interesting moves on good rock. Follow a shallow groove past a spike to reach Kaiserbirge Wall. Follow... | 2 Stars | HVS 5b |
16 |
Kaisergebirge Wall A great route that has the crux where it should be... at the top! Follow the obvious traverse-line leftwards to a resting... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
17 |
Wind Another superb but tough Grochan HVS. High in the grade. Photo on page 72. Follow the thin crack all the way to belay on... | 2 Stars Strong | HVS 5b |