Clogwyn y Grochan Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
5 mins
Windy

Beautifully clean Welsh mountain-dolerite and a short walk-in make this a popular venue in the pass. Guidebook page 80.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Phantom Rib
A great and popular climb up a series of ribs on the left-hand side of the buttress.1) 4b, 12m. On the wall are two...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
2
Nea
A classic outing, taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4b
3
Spectre
The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS.1) 4c, 20m. Climb the thin crack to a small ledge on the right, go straight up...
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
4
Spectrum
A hard route with a steep start and a great second pitch.1) 5b, 14m. Climb up to the shattered overhang and pull round this...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
5
SS Special
Superb crack and face climbing followed by a stiff pull through the roof.45m. Follow the right hand crack in the flat wall...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
6
Sickle
A good route, but hard for the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Start either side of the large flake. From the top of the flake climb the...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
7
Brant Direct Top 50
FA. P.Harding, J.Disley, P.Hodgkinson, G.Dyke 1949
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5a
8
Cockblock Top 50
FA. J.Redhead, C.Shorter, K.Robertson 1980
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
Slape Direct
Short and fierce.20m. Gain the leftward slanting crack from the right. Climb past a small quartz ledge and make hard moves...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
10
First Amendment
The parallel line to Slape Direct gives a contrasting route.1) 5c, 20m. The thin crack leads to a junction with Brant....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
11
Brant
FA. J.Edwards, J.Barford 1940
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
12
Stroll On
Pumpy climbing on good rock and gear.40m. Follow the confusing lower wall to a semi-rest under the small roof at 16m. Gird...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 6a
13
Hangover
A superb route with two contrasting pitches. High in the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Step right into the appealing groove, and climb...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E1 5b
14
Quasar Top 50
Short but steep, the crux holds on the headwall sometimes seep.40m. Climb the groove (surprisingly awkward) to the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 6a
15
Karwendel Wall
A cruxy route with interesting moves on good rock. Follow a shallow groove past a spike to reach Kaiserbirge Wall. Follow...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
16
Kaisergebirge Wall
A great route that has the crux where it should be... at the top! Follow the obvious traverse-line leftwards to a resting...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
17
Wind
Another superb but tough Grochan HVS. High in the grade. Photo on page 72. Follow the thin crack all the way to belay on...
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For CLOGWYN Y GROCHAN

    Hangover
    "Easy for 5b (and not strenuous really), but I found the first pitch a little loo..." 04/May

    Phantom Rib
    "A good quality route, proper VS" 14/Mar

    SS Special
    "For me 5C" 11/Mar

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