Milestone Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< East Face  |  Bochlwyd Buttress >

Trad
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Uphill
Windy

The right-hand side of Milestone Buttress gets afternoon sunshine and a lot of climbing traffic. Approach (see map on page 164) - Park in the lay-by beneath the crag and follow the path up to where it meets the Soapgut wall (previous page). Cross the stile on the right and traverse across to below the crag. The steep and often-wet gully just right of Pulpit Route is the most common descent. Care is needed in the upper reaches, as a slip could prove very serious. There is often a fixed abseil sling around a good thread at the top if you'd prefer to abseil.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Boot Crack
A great boot-sized crack. Follow the crack. Abseil descent.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
2
Crazy Horse
A good route with a technical second pitch.1) 5c, 20m. Climb the worrying large flake to gain the ledge, belay in the...
 
2 Stars
E3 6a
3
Soapgut/Chimney Route
The slippery corner offers a fine line.1) 4b, 30m. Climb the corner, often damp, until a stride round the arete finds a...
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
4
The Wrinkled Retainer
A tough and green route. Used to be E4 before someone chopped down the starting tree - not a practice to be encouraged. A...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6c
5
Crosscut
A wandering line taking-in some of the best rock on the buttress.1) 5b, 30m. Climb the easy right corner until a traverse...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
6
Super Direct
Fantastic slab moves on some of the best mountain rock in Wales.1) 4c, 32m. Climb the polished ramp right to reach the...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
7
Direct Route Top 50
A classic outing, described here with a more direct start up the crack. The original start climbs the diagonal corner on the...
 
3 Stars
VD
8
Rowan Route
Another fantastic and amenable classic with solid belays and expansive ledges.1) 22m. Follow the rib just right of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
D
9
Pulpit Route/Ivy Chimney
Just left of the descent gully lies this interesting and varied route. Another good one for those with limited multi-pitch...
 
2 Stars
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For TRYFAN

    Mossy Slab
    "Changed from HVD to HVD *, 0% of 1 vote for *" 11/Oct

    Gashed Crag
    "good climb, but the chimney was very polished" 27/Jun top50

    Boot Crack
    "Start is a bit tricky as it tends to be greasy, but hardest move is getting into..." 25/Apr

    Stepped Crack
    "This route should be graded VD. It is a lot harder then the other Ds on the crag..." 19/Sep top50

    Munich Climb
    "Think the crux on the first pitch is 5a. The step up onto the nose felt more lik..." 06/Sep

    Pinnacle Rib Route
    "Think this route description might be wrong? Pitch 4 is a 25m ish diagonal trave..." 25/May top50

    Little Tryfan Arete
    "Absolutely, categorically, emphatically, definitely not worth 3 stars. It's plea..." 13/Apr top50

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