Bochlwyd Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 mins
Windy

A lovely little crag that gets evening sun and dries quickly. Approach (see map on page 164) - Park at Ogwen Cottage (fee) and take the main path towards Cwm Idwal. After about 400m the path dog-legs right. Head straight on along a small path to where the ground steepens. The crag is easily seen as you approach and a short boulder-hop across a stream leads to the base. The best descent from the crag is to follow the easy path down the right (looking in) side of the crag. Guidebook page 176.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Wall Climb
A great introduction to the harder routes on the buttress, but tough for the grade.1) 4b, 22m. Climb the initial easy slab...
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
2
Bochlwyd Eliminate
A technical climb on great rock. A long, sustained pitch. Start as for Wall Climb to a break where that route strides left....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
HVS 5a
3
The Wrack
A tough, but superbly satisfying route that requires a degree of determination. An easy start leads to the steep and bold...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
E2 5b
4
Chimney Climb
A steep and traditional outing.1) 15m. Climb the steep chimney and the face of the block on the left to gain the ledge...
 
1 Stars
S
5
Two Pitch Route
The central line gives a worthwhile outing.1) 25m. Climb directly up the wall right of the chimney. A step left gains a...
 
1 Stars
S
6
Five Pitch Route
Best climbed in one or two pitches, belaying after P3.1) 7m. The easy lower slab.2) 4b, 9m. Step up into the niche and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
7
Marble Slab
A great route with a hard, well-protected crux. Climb the cracked wall to the right of the slab of rock at the base of the crag...
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
8
Arete and Slab
The easiest route on the crag has great positions and varied climbing.1) 18m. Climb the steep cracked arete on juggy holds...
 
1 Stars
D
  • Latest Comments

    For TRYFAN

    Mossy Slab
    "Changed from HVD to HVD *, 0% of 1 vote for *" 11/Oct

    Gashed Crag
    "good climb, but the chimney was very polished" 27/Jun top50

    Boot Crack
    "Start is a bit tricky as it tends to be greasy, but hardest move is getting into..." 25/Apr

    Stepped Crack
    "This route should be graded VD. It is a lot harder then the other Ds on the crag..." 19/Sep top50

    Munich Climb
    "Think the crux on the first pitch is 5a. The step up onto the nose felt more lik..." 06/Sep

    Pinnacle Rib Route
    "Think this route description might be wrong? Pitch 4 is a 25m ish diagonal trave..." 25/May top50

    Little Tryfan Arete
    "Absolutely, categorically, emphatically, definitely not worth 3 stars. It's plea..." 13/Apr top50

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