Long Rock Slab

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
25 mins
Uphill
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Long Rock Slab possesses one of the best line-ups of sustained slab-pitches in the south of the UK. The setting is delightful and the cliff is tilted at a friendly angle. Although the routes have some runout sections the protection is normally reliable as is the rock quality. Guidebook page 94.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dream Lover
A nicely sustained climb that is worth seeking out, especially if the rest of the slab is busy. Start 9m left of the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5b
2
Pickpocket
Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
3
Doors of Perception
The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb that requires good bridging...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Twinkletoes
Start at the base of the right-hand of two corners that lead up to the base of the main corner-line of Doors of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VS 4c
5
Inferno
A fine, fingery upper section that takes on the extremely blank-looking area of slab to the left of the Twinkletoes ramp-line....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6a
6
No Sweat
A direct line that takes in some quite testing ground. Start below a very thin crack-system in the wall to the left of...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5c
7
Undercracker
Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1 5a
8
Slip It In Quick
Intricate and very sustained slab climbing with reasonable protection, despite appearances from below. Can suffer from an...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Terrapin
A memorable and adventurous tour of the main section of Long Rock Slab. Although protection is sound, the runouts are...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5b
10
Soft Touch
A direct and very intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of the long crack of Lost Horizon. There are a number...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E4 6a
11
Lost Horizon
One of the best VSs in Devon. Start at the continuous crack-system just left of the corner of Urizen.42m. Follow the long,...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
12
Urizen
The right-hand corner of the slab is a great line and very popularStart directly beneath the corner.42m. Take the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
13
Shangri-La
A classic. The arete to the right of Urizen is one of the finest routes at Baggy Point and, as a consequence, sees a lot of...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BAGGY POINT

    Urizen
    "Actually preferred this to Lost Horizon! Weird climbing as you bridge between a ..." 26/Sep

    Shangri-La
    "I can agree with that one this was one of the first ever climbs I did the view w..." 22/Sep

    Shangri-La
    "A contender for the best Severe in the world" 27/Sep

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