Long Rock Slab

Adjacent Areas
< Scrattling Zawn  |  Slab Cove >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
25 mins
Uphill
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Long Rock Slab possesses one of the best line-ups of sustained slab-pitches in the south of the UK. The setting is delightful and the cliff is tilted at a friendly angle. Although the routes have some runout sections the protection is normally reliable as is the rock quality.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dream Lover
A nicely sustained climb that is worth seeking out, especially if the rest of the slab is busy. Start 9m left of the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5b
2
Pickpocket
Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
3
Doors of Perception
The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb that requires good bridging...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Twinkletoes
Start at the base of the right-hand of two corners that lead up to the base of the main corner-line of Doors of...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VS 4c
5
Inferno
A fine, fingery upper section that takes on the extremely blank-looking area of slab to the left of the Twinkletoes ramp-line....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6a
6
No Sweat
A direct line that takes in some quite testing ground. Start below a very thin crack-system in the wall to the left of...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5c
7
Undercracker
Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1 5a
8
Slip It In Quick
Intricate and very sustained slab climbing with reasonable protection, despite appearances from below. Can suffer from an...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Terrapin
A memorable and adventurous tour of the main section of Long Rock Slab. Although protection is sound, the runouts are...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5b
10
Soft Touch
A direct and very intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of the long crack of Lost Horizon. There are a number...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E4 6a
11
Lost Horizon
One of the best VSs in Devon. Start at the continuous crack-system just left of the corner of Urizen.42m. Follow the long,...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
12
Urizen
The right-hand corner of the slab is a great line and very popularStart directly beneath the corner.42m. Take the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
13
Shangri-La Top 50
A classic. The arete to the right of Urizen is one of the finest routes at Baggy Point and, as a consequence, sees a lot of...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BAGGY POINT

    Twinkletoes
    "Hopefully someone will take a crowbar to that detached block. It is lethal and w..." 19/Aug

    Urizen
    "Actually preferred this to Lost Horizon! Weird climbing as you bridge between a ..." 26/Sep

    Shangri-La
    "I can agree with that one this was one of the first ever climbs I did the view w..." 22/Sep top50

    Shangri-La
    "A contender for the best Severe in the world" 27/Sep top50

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