Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Uphill
25 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
A bird nesting restriction is in place from the 15th March to th
Long Rock Slab possesses one of the best line-ups of sustained slab-pitches in the south of the UK. The setting is delightful and the cliff is tilted at a friendly angle. Although the routes have some runout sections the protection is normally reliable as is the rock quality. Guidebook page 94.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Dream Lover A nicely sustained climb that is worth seeking out, especially if the rest of the slab is busy. Start 9m left of the... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5b |
2 |
Pickpocket Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of... | 2 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
3 |
Doors of Perception The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb that requires good bridging... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E1 5b |
4 |
Twinkletoes Start at the base of the right-hand of two corners that lead up to the base of the main corner-line of Doors of... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | VS 4c |
5 |
Inferno A fine, fingery upper section that takes on the extremely blank-looking area of slab to the left of the Twinkletoes ramp-line.... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E5 6a |
6 |
No Sweat A direct line that takes in some quite testing ground. Start below a very thin crack-system in the wall to the left of... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E1 5c |
7 |
Undercracker Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner.... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E1 5a |
8 |
Slip It In Quick Intricate and very sustained slab climbing with reasonable protection, despite appearances from below. Can suffer from an... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E3 5c |
9 |
Terrapin A memorable and adventurous tour of the main section of Long Rock Slab. Although protection is sound, the runouts are... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5b |
10 |
Soft Touch A direct and very intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of the long crack of Lost Horizon. There are a number... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | E4 6a |
11 |
Lost Horizon One of the best VSs in Devon. Start at the continuous crack-system just left of the corner of Urizen.42m. Follow the long,... | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
12 |
Urizen The right-hand corner of the slab is a great line and very popularStart directly beneath the corner.42m. Take the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
13 |
Shangri-La A classic. The arete to the right of Urizen is one of the finest routes at Baggy Point and, as a consequence, sees a lot of... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | S 4a |