Neb Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
18 mins

Arguably the finest part of the cliff with an excellent collection of climbs on a fine series of jutting buttresses and undercut walls. Once the preserve of the few in 'the know' the place is now busy on most nice weekends. Guidebook page 92.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cleopatra
8m. Approach the hanging crack by a steep groove. Short-lived but strenuous climbing.
1 user comment
 
Strong
Graunchy
VS 4c
2
Samson's Delight
8m. The cracked arete is another steep one, though short-lived.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4c
3
Dirty Stop Out
8m. Tackle the thin crack and bulging wall. Trend right to finish.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
4
Delilah
8m. The crack is awkward to climb and protect.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
HS 4a
5
Short Curve
8m. Make a tricky start up the short curving crack, which then eases to give a few pleasant moves above.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
The Business Boy
10m. Bound up the short wall to the left of the deep corner.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V4 6b
7
N.B. Corner
8m. The deep angle eases with height.
1 user comment
 D
8
Big Ben
12m. The steep left-hand crack on jams and jugs to a high crux.
2 user comments
 VS 4b
9
Parliament
12m. The thin right-hand crack in the north-facing wall feels best if you keep to the right.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
10
Auricle
16m. Low in the grade. The face right of the arete has hard moves above the roof to the 'ear'. Escape right below the roofs.
14 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
11
Jumping Jack Longland
14m. A more direct finish to Auricle. Span left along the lip, from where the ordinary exits, to reach the jugs.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 5c
12
Neb Buttress
20m. A class act! Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead to an escape...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
13
Bamford Rib
16m. The rounded rib to the right of the crack leads to a fingery move onto a ledge. Lean left to access the bumpy final wall.
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
14
Bramble Crack
16m. The long groove is approached by bridging past the worst of the greenery and then gives worthwhile climbing.
1 user comment
 VD
15
The Happy Wanderer
14m. A steep arete but at an amenable grade and with good protection - the crux is easiest on the left. Excellent and elegant.
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
16
Reach
14m. A direct line 2m right of the arete with the expected couple of long stretches (mantelshelves for the short).
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
17
Bamford Wall
14m. Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to ledges then move back out left for an exposed finale.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
18
Bamford Buttress
12m. From an ochre-coloured hole, climb to top of the flake then trend right up scoops to reach the top of Twin Cracks.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 4a
19
Busy Day at Bamford
12m. The blunt arete is followed through a series of bulges to easier-angled ground above.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
20
Twin Cracks
10m. From the cave, bridge the steep cracks, left then right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
21
Deep Cleft
14m. Always a windy experience. Exiting outside the chock is Diff.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
22
Oracle
14m. Climb near the outside of the cleft until the front of the fine exposed arete on the right can be gained by a bold swing....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
23
Sterling Moss
16m. The wall and flat roof right of the hanging arete have baffling moves to pass the bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
24
Ontos
16m. The centre of the huge wall is approached by an easy rib and has a desperate reach/pull move at the bulge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
Rounded
E3 6b
25
Fatal Inheritance
16m. The wall to the right requires a huge reach. Sometimes dirty.
 
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E4 6a
26
Trouble with Lichen
25m. A superbly positioned girdle of the buttress. There is a crucial stride onto the jug of Ontos, then head for the arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
27
Slanting Slab
14m. The easy slab on the right-hand side of the face is mild, and a bit shrubby, but still worthwhile at the grade.
1 user comment
 M
28
Grey Days
10m. The short-lived roof on the far right.
 
Reachy
Strong
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

    Portside
    "The start provides a challenge on a damp day: either a huge reach up (more lunge..." 04/Sep

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "First E1." 17/Aug

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "I don't think the description's very good,'cause it's very clear where it goes w..." 16/Aug

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