Neb Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
18 mins
Uphill

Arguably the finest part of the cliff with an excellent collection of climbs on a fine series of jutting buttresses and undercut walls. Once the preserve of the few in 'the know' the place is now busy on most nice weekends.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cleopatra
Approach the hanging crack by a steep groove. Short-lived but strenuous climbing.
1 user comment
 
Strong
Graunchy
VS 4c
2
Samson's Delight
The cracked arete is another short 'n' steep one.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
3
Dirty Stop Out
Tackle the thin crack and bulging wall. A bit of a fist-fight!
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Graunchy
E2 5c
4
Delilah
The crack is awkward to climb and protect.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
HS 4b
5
Short Curve
Make an tricky start up the short curving crack, which then eases to give a few pleasant moves above.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
The Business Boy
Bound up the short wall to the left of the deep corner.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V4 6B
7
N.B. Corner
The deep angle eases with height.
1 user comment
 D
8
Big Ben
Starting up the previous route the steep left-hand crack on jams and jugs leads to a high crux.
2 user comments
 VS 4b
9
Parliament
The thin right-hand crack in the north-facing is offset and climbs best on the right; sustained and hard work.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5c
10
Neb Buttress Direct
Starting up the lower arete is a popular way of doing this classic and only a little harder than the original version. It also...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
11
Auricle
Low in the grade, though the loss of a hold has made it even harder for the short than it used to be. The face right of the...
14 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
12
Jumping Jack Longland
A left-hand finish to Auricle. Span left along the lip, from where the ordinary exits rightwards, to reach the jugs and a...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 5c
13
Neb Buttress
Classy - the original and best! Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
14
Bamford Rib
The rounded rib to the right of the crack leads steeply to a ledge where a holly competes for space. Lean awkwardly left to...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
15
Bramble Crack
The long groove is approached by bridging past the worst of the greenery and then gives worthwhile climbing to an escape left....
1 user comment
 VD
16
The Happy Wanderer
A steep arete but at an amenable grade and with good protection - the crux is easiest on the left. Excellent and elegant...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
17
Reach
A direct line 2m right of the arete with the expected long stretches (or more technical manoeuvres for the short) to a tricky...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
18
Bamford Wall
Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to niche then follow a tin crack ledges. Move back out left for a...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
19
Bamford Buttress
From an ochre-coloured hole, climb to top of the flake then trend right up scoops to reach the top of Twin Cracks.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 4a
20
Busy Day at Bamford
The blunt arete is followed through a series of bulges to easier-angled ground above.
1 user comment
 
Technical
VS 5a
21
Twin Cracks
From the cave, bridge the steep cracks, left then right. The hanging rib just right is Custards Last Stand - HVS 5b.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
22
Custard's Last Stand
The hanging rib.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
23
Oracle
Climb near the outside of the cleft until the front of the fine exposed arete on the right can be gained by a bold swing. Wild!
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
24
Deep Cleft
Almost always a windy trip. Exiting outside the chock is Diff.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
25
Sterling Moss
The wall and flat roof right of the hanging arete have baffling moves to pass the bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6b
26
Ontos
The centre of the huge wall is approached by an easy rib and has a desperate reach/pull move at the bulge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
Rounded
E3 6b
27
Fatal Inheritance
The wall to the right requires a huge reach. Sometimes dirty.
 
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E4 6a
28
Purgamentum
The wall can be a little dirty.
 
Technical
Rounded
E4 6b
29
Trouble with Lichen
A superbly positioned girdle of the buttress. There is a crucial stride onto the jug of Ontos, then head for the arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
30
Slanting Slab
The easy slab on the right-hand side of the face is mild, and a bit shrubby, but still worthwhile at the grade.
1 user comment
 M
31
Grey Days
The short-lived roof on the far right.
 
Reachy
Strong
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Neb Buttress
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

    Portside
    "The start provides a challenge on a damp day: either a huge reach up (more lunge..." 04/Sep

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "First E1." 17/Aug

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "I don't think the description's very good,'cause it's very clear where it goes w..." 16/Aug

    Parliament
    "Never HVS in a million years." 12/Jul

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