Neb Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Wrinkled Wall Area  |  Christmas Buttresses >

Trad
Sun and Shade
17 mins
Uphill
Windy

The finest section of the cliff has an excellent collection of climbs on a series of fine jutting buttresses and undercut walls. Once the preserve of the few in the know, crowds are not uncommon nowadays and the crag base is starting to show signs of wear.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cleopatra
Approach the hanging crack by a steep groove. Short-lived but strenuous climbing.
2 user comments
 
Strong
Graunchy
VS
2
Samson's Delight
The cracked arete is another short 'n' steep one.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
3
Dirty Stop Out
Tackle the thin crack and bulging wall. A bit of a fist-fight!
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Graunchy
E2
4
Delilah
The crack is awkward to climb and protect.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Graunchy
HS
5
Short Curve
Make a tricky start up the short curving crack, which then eases to give a few pleasant moves above.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
The Business Boy
Bound up the short wall to the left of the deep corner.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
7
N.B. Corner
The deep angle eases with height.
3 user comments
 D
8
Big Ben
Starting up N.B. Corner, climb the steep left-hand crack on jams and jugs leading to a high crux.
3 user comments
 VS
9
Parliament
The thin right-hand crack in the north-facing wall is offset and climbs best on the right; sustained and hard work.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
10
Neb Buttress Direct
Starting up the lower arete is a popular way of doing this classic and only a little harder than the original version. It also...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
11
Auricle
Low in the grade, though the loss of a hold has made it even harder for the short than it used to be. The face right of the...
15 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E2
12
Jumping Jack Longland
A good left-hand finish to Auricle. Span left along the lip, from where the ordinary exits rightwards, to reach the jugs and a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3
13
Neb Buttress
Classy - the original and best! Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
14
Bamford Rib
The rounded rib to the right of the crack leads steeply to a ledge where a holly competes for space. Lean awkwardly left to...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS
15
Bramble Crack
The long groove is approached by bridging past the worst of the greenery and then gives a couple of tricky mantels to an escape...
2 user comments
 VD
16
The Happy Wanderer
A steep arete but at an amenable grade and with good protection - the crux is easiest on the left. Excellent and elegant...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
17
Reach
A direct line 2m right of the arete with the expected long stretches (or more technical manoeuvres for the short) to a tricky...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS
18
Bamford Wall
Climb the slanting flake then move right to a crack. Up this to a niche then follow a thin crack to ledges. Move back out left...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
S
19
Bamford Buttress
From an ochre-coloured hole, climb to top of the flake and trend right up scoops to reach the top of Twin Cracks.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S
20
Busy Day at Bamford
The blunt arete is followed through a series of bulges to easier-angled ground above.
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS
21
Twin Cracks
From the cave, bridge the steep cracks, left then right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
22
Custard's Last Stand
The hanging rib just right of the last route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
23
Oracle
Climb near the outside of the cleft until the front of the fine exposed arete on the right can be gained by a bold swing. Wild!
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HS
24
Deep Cleft
Almost always a windy trip. Exiting outside the chock is Diff.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
25
Sterling Moss
The wall and flat roof right of the hanging arete have baffling moves to pass the bulge.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4
26
Ontos
The centre of the huge wall is approached by an easy rib and has a desperate reach/pull move at the bulge.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
Rounded
E3
27
Fatal Inheritance
The wall to the right requires a huge reach. Sometimes dirty.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E4
28
Purgamentum
The wall can be a little dirty.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Rounded
E4
29
Trouble with Lichen
A superbly positioned girdle of the buttress. There is a crucial stride onto the jug of Ontos, then head for the arete.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
30
Slanting Slab
The easy slab on the right-hand side of the face is mild and a bit shrubby, but still worthwhile at the grade.
2 user comments
 M
31
Grey Days
The short-lived roof on the far right.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Strong
E2