Adjacent Areas
< None | None >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
5 minsTidal
Windy
A very reliable venue that has a good number of easily accessible single pitch routes that are somewhere between slab and wall climbs. The rock is generally excellent but protection is spaced and the climbing sustained. Take lots of small wires. The routes can also be easily top-roped from the many stakes on the cliff top. Guidebook page 122.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Half Life The smooth left-hand side of the slabby wall provides the blank canvas for this intricate and bold pitch. The protection is... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
2 |
Nose Decay A fine, hard and very bold line. Start 6m right of the left edge of the slab on the left-hand side of an alcove, as for Half... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
3 |
Lucky Streak In the centre of the crag is a dark streak that is a seepage line during wet spells. Lucky Streak takes the thin crack in the... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E1 5b |
4 |
Lord Lucan is Missing The continuous thin crack-line just to the right of the dark streak has a hard move close to the end of the pitch. Start below... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E2 5c |
5 |
One in Every Port An excellent climb typical of the style on this slabby wall. Start below a line of left-slanting parallel thin cracks.26m.... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E1 5b |
6 |
Tourist Trap A great pitch that passes the small round hole high on the right-hand side of the face. Start 5m left of the right arete of the... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E1 5b |
7 |
Chien Lunatique The right-hand arete is a popular introduction to the crag. Start just left of the base of the arete. Photo this page.26m.... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | HVS 4c |
8 |
Föhn The face of the inner pinnacle is far less tidal than its offshore near neighbour. Start below the summit of the... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | HS 4a |
9 |
Sea Breeze The inset slab on the left-hand side of the seaward pinnacle is a good but hard to access pitch. Start below the inset... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4a |
10 |
The Needle Direct The front face of the seaward pinnacle is well positioned, but access to the start is quickly cut off. Start at the base of the... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | VS 4b |