Cave Route Area

Adjacent Areas
< Deliverance Area  |  None >

Sport
Evening sun
10 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

This is one of the UKs great climbing arenas, home to some of the longest and best sport pitches in the land and in as as dramatic a setting as one could wish for. The wall receives the sun from late afternoon onwards in the summer and is a great evening venue or a shade-trap in hot weather. It can be cold if there is a breeze blowing down the gorge and it takes long time to dry out. Guidebook page 312.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mr Trimby's Guinea Pig
13m. The groove with seven bolts to a lower-off.
 
Technical
Loose
6c+
2
Pillar and Roof Route
25m. Start on ledges and follow the bolts up the wall and over the roof just left of Ivy Groove.
 
Strong
7b+
3
Ivy Groove
27m. When clean and dry this gives a worthwhile pitch. Start on steep grass down and left of the groove guarded by an overhang....
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
4
Revival
29m. An improbable-looking pitch tracing a sweeping line up the hanging wall. Start down and right of Ivy Groove and climb the...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
5
Revitalised
Link Revival to the top of Masochism Tango to give a three star pitch.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
6
Masochism Tango
A stunningly-situated second pitch above the depressions right of Revival. The first pitch suffers badly from seepage.1)...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
7
Strictly Ballroom
15m. A short pitch to a lower-off in the first depression on Masochism Tango.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
8
Nothing Lasts Forever
15m. From the 3rd bolt on Strictly Ballroom climb direct to a lower-off.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
9
Strictly Masochism
35m. Start up Strictly Ballroom and continue up Masochism.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
10
Strictly Cool Masochism
Take Strictly Masochism to the second depression and then move into Huecool to finish.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
11
Huecool
32m. An impressive climb taking the immense wall left of the Cave Routes. Start up Supercool and move left after the third...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
12
Supercool
32m. One of the best sport routes in the UK. Start left of the Cave Route cracks and climb directly through numerous bulges to...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
13
Cave Route Left
32m. A mean pitch of great quality. The fixed gear is not only old but very spaced and most will choose to back it up although...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6c
14
Cave Eliminate
32m. An interloper taking the walls and bulges between the starts of the Left and Right Cave Routes. ¤line on topo?
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
15
Cave Route Right
32m. The soaring line of Cave Route Right yields a superb climb. There is much fixed gear but extra wires are still required....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
16
Defcon 3
30m. A pitch guaranteed to set the alarm bells ringing. Start up Cave Route Right and at the overhang at 8m step right to the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
17
Last Dog
10m. A good little pitch which packs in the moves. It is now used as the usual start for Pierrepoint.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
18
Pierrepoint
40m. A mind-blowing pitch taking in the full height of the wall right of the Cave Routes. The original start is right of Last...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
Hangman Start
15m. The powerful start. Continue up the rest or lower off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
20
Hangman
Varied and exciting pitches up the full height of the wall. Although there is plenty of fixed gear a rack is needed.1) 7b,...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
21
Trubble
10m. The line of closely-spaced bolts provides a short but difficult pitch with two possible lines of ascent. The left-hand is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
22
The Inca Trail
10m. The short bolted line just right of Trubble features difficult undercutting in its first half above which things ease off.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
23
Well Hung
38m. A right-to-left crossing of the wall and upper overhang gives a truly amazing pitch. Gain the belay above Trubble either...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
24
Gallows Humour
28m. A fine pitch of high quality and atmosphere finding a way up the right-hand side of the wall at a reasonable grade but...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a
25
Bliss
A route for those seeking adventure in one massive dose. Start at an overhanging thin crack right of Inca Trail.1) 6b, 15m....
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E7 6b
26
A Grand Day Out
50m. A long, long pitch visiting some wild positions and with a lot of difficult and fine climbing. Some nuts can be placed...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For GORDALE

    Masochism Tango
    "This was the first route John and I did together. 1986 NOT 1988" 26/Nov

    Face Route
    "You want to move right a bit from the peg, which makes it about 6a." 03/Nov top50

    Cave Eliminate
    "Some harsh comments! Easily worth 2 stars being a good sustained route on great ..." 08/Jul

    Face Route
    "My mate says that the fixed gear is in a poor state now and then peg on the top ..." 24/Jun top50

    Supercool
    "Totally Awesome!" 25/Jun

    Nothing Lasts Forever
    "A decent route, the fun is packed into the last two bulges. Worth doing." 08/May

    Revitalised
    "Matt Troilett got the fa of this with mick" 30/Jan

    Deliverance
    "The crux is more technical than powerful. If you use the right holds in the righ..." 19/Sep

    Green Carpet
    "Re-bolted last week along with Crash Test Dummy to the left." 14/Sep

    Shadowlands
    "Simply brilliant - even more exciting than the photo in the YMC guide suggests. ..." 30/Aug

    Green Carpet
    "Definitely requires committment. 6b+? - feels a grade harder than Shadowlands wh..." 11/Jun

    Face Route
    "Did this yesterday with a fair amount of seepage and yes, what a class route th..." 11/Sep top50

    Deliverance
    "eh? first pitch is good rock and good gear. Did you go the right way? Pretty re..." 07/Aug

    Strictly Ballroom
    "I would say 7a/7a+ for the o/s as the crux moves over the top bulge are a bit bl..." 31/Jul

    Pierrepoint
    "7b+ to the roof, and a recently discovered jug right at the top brings the full ..." 24/Jul

    Ventura
    "Never has a route been so badly equipped with symbols! Not technical or pumpy at..." 24/Jul

    Naked
    "All new gear in this area now." 23/Jul

    Revival
    "The rock around the bolt before the crux has shattered, the bolt is still in and..." 03/Jul

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