Cave Route Area

Adjacent Areas
< Solstice Wall  |  None >

Trad and Sport
Evening sun
5 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain

A stunning wall that is the setting for some equally impressive routes. The centre of the wall is split by the converging cracks of the Cave Routes Left and Right whilst on either side are a host of brilliant routes. The right-hand side of the area has more atmospheric climbing which is capped by the huge overhang that tops off the wall and is guarded by a very steep lower bulge. The wall receives the sun from late afternoon onwards in the summer. In hot weather it is a great evening venue. It can be cold if there is a breeze blowing down the gorge and it takes a long time to dry out.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ivy Groove
When clean and dry this gives a worthwhile pitch. Climb the wall to a bulge (2 bolts). Pull over to reach the ledge at the...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
2
Comedy of Errors
Follow Ivy Groove until 4m above its initial overhang. Make a delicate traverse right to a shallow groove that leads to bulges...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
Revival
An improbable looking pitch tracing a sweeping line up the hanging wall. Climb the wall to a bulge (2 bolts). Pull over into...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
4
Revitalised
Link Revival to the top of Masochism Tango to give a three star pitch.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
5
Deconstruction
Follow Revival until just before its crux. Hard moves left lead to a ledge and junction with Comedy of Errors. Follow this...
 E6 6b
6
Masochism Tango
A stunning second pitch above the depressions right of Revival. The first pitch suffers badly from seepage and requires gear....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
7
Strictly Ballroom
A relatively short pitch up the wall to a lower-off in the first depression on Masochism Tango.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
8
Nothing Ever Lasts Forever
From the third bolt on Strictly Ballroom step right and climb direct past bulges to a lower-off.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
7b+
9
Strictly Masochism
A top-notch link-up. Start up Strictly Ballroom and continue up Masochism Tango.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
10
Strictly Cool Masochism
Another great way up the wall. Take Strictly Masochism to the second depression and then move right into Huecool to finish.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
11
Huecool
An impressive climb taking the huge wall left of the Cave Routes. Start up Supercool and move left after the third bolt....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
12
Supercool
One of the very best sport routes in the UK. Start to the left of the Cave Route Left-hand crack and climb past numerous bulges...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
13
Cave Route Left-hand
A daunting pitch of the highest calibre. Follow a leaning hand-crack to its end and make a hard pull over a bulge. Continue to...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
14
Cave Eliminate
An interloper that has some good climbing taking the walls and bulges between the starts of the Cave Route Left and Right.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
15
Cave Route Right-hand
The soaring line of Cave Route Right-hand yields a superb climb. There is much fixed gear but extra wires are still required....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
16
Defcon 3
Varied and sustained climbing with an exciting final bulge. Start up Cave Route Right and at the overhang at 8m step right to...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
17
Last Dog
A good little pitch which packs in the moves. It is now used as the usual start for Pierrepoint. Make a couple of bouldery...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
18
Pierrepoint
A mind-blowing single pitch taking in the full height of the wall right of the Cave Routes. Climb the overhanging wide crack...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
Dogpoint
An very popular link-up pitch is to start up Last Dog and then climb Pierrepoint to finish at the lower-off below the final...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
20
Hangman Original Start
A powerful start. Continue up the rest or lower off.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c+
21
Hangman
Varied and exciting pitches up the full height of the wall. Although there is plenty of fixed gear a rack is needed. 1) Sport...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
22
The Noose
Gain the flake and then the break above before pulling up and left to a corner. Continue to the belay on the ledge above.
 
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
E7 6c
23
Trubble
The line of closely-spaced bolts provides a short but difficult pitch with two possible lines of ascent. The left-hand is 8a+...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
24
The Inca Trail
The short bolted line just right of Trubble features difficult undercutting in its first half above which things ease off.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
25
Gallows Humour
A fine pitch of high quality and atmosphere finding a way up the right-hand side of the wall at a reasonable grade but with...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a
26
Well Hung
A right-to-left crossing of the wall and upper overhang gives a truly amazing pitch. Gain the belay above Trubble either by...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
27
Ruth Ellis
Climb direct from 5th bolt on Gallows Humour. Lower off in stages.
 7c
28
Bliss
A route for those seeking adventure in one massive dose. Start at an overhanging thin crack right of Inca Trail. 1) 6b, 15m....
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E7 6b
29
A Grand Day Out
A long, long pitch visiting some wild positions and with lots of fine and difficult climbing. Some nuts can be placed but the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For GORDALE

    Wise Crack
    "Changed from 5c * to E3 5c *, no votes" 19/Nov

    Masochism Tango
    "This was the first route John and I did together. 1986 NOT 1988" 26/Nov

    Face Route
    "You want to move right a bit from the peg, which makes it about 6a." 03/Nov top50

    Cave Eliminate
    "Some harsh comments! Easily worth 2 stars being a good sustained route on great ..." 08/Jul

    Face Route
    "My mate says that the fixed gear is in a poor state now and then peg on the top ..." 24/Jun top50

    Supercool
    "Totally Awesome!" 25/Jun

    Nothing Ever Lasts Forever
    "A decent route, the fun is packed into the last two bulges. Worth doing." 08/May

    Revitalised
    "Matt Troilett got the fa of this with mick" 30/Jan

    Deliverance
    "The crux is more technical than powerful. If you use the right holds in the righ..." 19/Sep

    Green Carpet
    "Re-bolted last week along with Crash Test Dummy to the left." 14/Sep

    Shadowlands
    "Simply brilliant - even more exciting than the photo in the YMC guide suggests. ..." 30/Aug

    Green Carpet
    "Definitely requires committment. 6b+? - feels a grade harder than Shadowlands wh..." 11/Jun

    Face Route
    "Did this yesterday with a fair amount of seepage and yes, what a class route th..." 11/Sep top50

    Deliverance
    "eh? first pitch is good rock and good gear. Did you go the right way? Pretty re..." 07/Aug

    Strictly Ballroom
    "I would say 7a/7a+ for the o/s as the crux moves over the top bulge are a bit bl..." 31/Jul

    Pierrepoint
    "7b+ to the roof, and a recently discovered jug right at the top brings the full ..." 24/Jul

    Ventura
    "Never has a route been so badly equipped with symbols! Not technical or pumpy at..." 24/Jul

    Naked
    "All new gear in this area now." 23/Jul

    Revival
    "The rock around the bolt before the crux has shattered, the bolt is still in and..." 03/Jul

    Face Route
    "retro bolt it get a fxxking life pxick" 23/Mar top50

    Search for comments