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Sport

Evening sun

Level

10 mins

Seepage

Dry in the Rain

This is one of the UK’s great climbing arenas, home to some of the longest and best sport pitches in the land and in as as dramatic a setting as one could wish for. The wall receives the sun from late afternoon onwards in the summer and is a great evening venue or a shade-trap in hot weather. It can be cold if there is a breeze blowing down the gorge and it takes long time to dry out. Guidebook page 312.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Mr Trimby's Guinea Pig 13m. The groove with seven bolts to a lower-off.	Technical Loose	6c+
2	Pillar and Roof Route 25m. Start on ledges and follow the bolts up the wall and over the roof just left of Ivy Groove.	Strong	7b+
3	Ivy Groove 27m. When clean and dry this gives a worthwhile pitch. Start on steep grass down and left of the groove guarded by an overhang.... 6 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	E3 5c
4	Revival 29m. An improbable-looking pitch tracing a sweeping line up the hanging wall. Start down and right of Ivy Groove and climb the... 5 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7b
5	Revitalised Link Revival to the top of Masochism Tango to give a three star pitch. 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
6	Masochism Tango A stunningly-situated second pitch above the depressions right of Revival. The first pitch suffers badly from seepage.1)... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery	E6 6c
7	Strictly Ballroom 15m. A short pitch to a lower-off in the first depression on Masochism Tango. 3 user comments	1 Stars Technical	7b
8	Nothing Lasts Forever 15m. From the 3rd bolt on Strictly Ballroom climb direct to a lower-off. 3 user comments	1 Stars Technical	7b+
9	Strictly Masochism 35m. Start up Strictly Ballroom and continue up Masochism. 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c
10	Strictly Cool Masochism Take Strictly Masochism to the second depression and then move into Huecool to finish. 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	7c
11	Huecool 32m. An impressive climb taking the immense wall left of the Cave Routes. Start up Supercool and move left after the third...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8b
12	Supercool 32m. One of the best sport routes in the UK. Start left of the Cave Route cracks and climb directly through numerous bulges to... 2 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8a+
13	Cave Route Left 32m. A mean pitch of great quality. The fixed gear is not only old but very spaced and most will choose to back it up although... 2 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	E6 6c
14	Cave Eliminate 32m. An interloper taking the walls and bulges between the starts of the Left and Right Cave Routes. ¤line on topo? 4 user comments	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c+
15	Cave Route Right 32m. The soaring line of Cave Route Right yields a superb climb. There is much fixed gear but extra wires are still required.... 3 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	E6 6b
16	Defcon 3 30m. A pitch guaranteed to set the alarm bells ringing. Start up Cave Route Right and at the overhang at 8m step right to the...	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c+
17	Last Dog 10m. A good little pitch which packs in the moves. It is now used as the usual start for Pierrepoint. 2 user comments	1 Stars Strong	7b
18	Pierrepoint 40m. A mind-blowing pitch taking in the full height of the wall right of the Cave Routes. The original start is right of Last... 7 user comments	3 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy	7c+
19	Hangman Start 15m. The powerful start. Continue up the rest or lower off.	1 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	7c+
20	Hangman Varied and exciting pitches up the full height of the wall. Although there is plenty of fixed gear a rack is needed.1) 7b,...	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	E6 6b
21	Trubble 10m. The line of closely-spaced bolts provides a short but difficult pitch with two possible lines of ascent. The left-hand is... 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Strong	8a+
22	The Inca Trail 10m. The short bolted line just right of Trubble features difficult undercutting in its first half above which things ease off.	1 Stars Strong	7c
23	Well Hung 38m. A right-to-left crossing of the wall and upper overhang gives a truly amazing pitch. Gain the belay above Trubble either...	3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	7b
24	Gallows Humour 28m. A fine pitch of high quality and atmosphere finding a way up the right-hand side of the wall at a reasonable grade but...	2 Stars Reachy Crimpy Fluttery	7a
25	Bliss A route for those seeking adventure in one massive dose. Start at an overhanging thin crack right of Inca Trail.1) 6b, 15m....	3 Stars Fluttery Loose	E7 6b
26	A Grand Day Out 50m. A long, long pitch visiting some wild positions and with a lot of difficult and fine climbing. Some nuts can be placed...	3 Stars Pumpy	7c+

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