Unknown Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
3 mins
Level

The left side of the area is a huge mass of variable-quality rock (the Unknown Wall) up which some big multi-pitch classics wend their way. In contrast, the right-hand side of the area (the Unknown Buttress) is divided into two walls by a huge ramp, and has consistently excellent rock and some superb single-pitch wall and crack-climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Desecrator
Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
2
The Blik
A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3
3
Unknown Wall
A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VS
4
Amanita Muscarina
Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic"....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
5
Yellow Edge
A steep and exciting journey up the very centre of the wall - a Gorge classic. Start 20m left of the huge corner at a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3
6
New Horizons
The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
7
Hocus Pocus
The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
8
M1
A fabulous single-pitch, fully loaded with a great deal of excellent and varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1
9
Ladder of Desire
An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. Start at a blank section of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
10
Them
A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp.Traverse...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3
11
New Horizons II
A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack close to the top of the ramp. Start at a right-facing flake-crack 10m down from...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
12
Mirage
An upper wall testpiece that features a hard but well-protected crux. Start at a right-leaning crack, the base of which...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3
13
Arms Race
A popular pumper that folows a fine, well-protected finger-crack. The rock anchor bolts are out-of-bounds for holds! Start at...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4
14
Low Profile
Superb and very sustained wall-climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
15
Rancho Cucamonga
Smart climbing that is low in the grade. Start at a pocketed yellow streak just left of Banshee's thin crack.Reach up to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3
16
Banshee
A neat little pitch. Start 50m up the ramp at the first section of pocketed wall below a thin crack in the grey wall 2m left of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
  • Latest Comments

    For AVON GORGE

    Gronk
    "A large slab or rock has come off the second pitch of Gronk leaving a big white ..." 17/Jul

    Original Route
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 06/Jul

    Yellow Edge
    "An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & ..." 10/Sep

    M1
    "unless it has changed - and i've done it three times in the last twenty five yea..." 14/Apr

    Nightmare
    "route is tricky and the last section this not very good protection. still worth ..." 17/Feb

    Mirage
    "Did this straight after Arms Race, but even so, the crux felt HARD. You get a se..." 03/Nov

    New Horizons
    "The second pitch is probably more 5b than 5c." 13/Oct

    Great Central Route
    "A very good varied route. But why the sustained symbol?" 22/Aug

    Hell Gates
    "Great route...better to combine 1st two pitches into one long lead imho. Exiting..." 10/Apr

    Limbo
    "Can be done in one pitch, but surely it's better to finish left towards the bela..." 21/Aug

    Sleepwalk
    "I love this route, but not sure why you have a pumpy symbol - a flutter would be..." 28/Jul top50

    Malbogies
    "Spooky at HVS!" 14/Jul

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