Unknown Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Unknown Wall  |  Sea Walls >

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Sun from mid-morning
3 mins
Level

The Unknown Buttress is divided into two walls by a huge ramp, and has consistently excellent rock and predominantly superb single-pitch wall and crack-climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
New Horizons
The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
2
Hocus Pocus Top 50
The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
3
M1 Top 50
A fabulous single-pitch, fully loaded with a great deal of excellent and varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
4
Ladder of Desire Top 50
An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. Start at a blank section of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
5
Them Top 50
A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp.26m....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
6
New Horizons II Top 50
A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack close to the top of the ramp. Start at a right-facing flake-crack 10m down from...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
7
Mirage Top 50
An upper wall testpiece that features a hard but well-protected crux. Start at a right-leaning crack, the base of which...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
8
Arms Race Top 50
A popular pumper that folows a fine, well-protected finger-crack. The rock anchor bolts are out-of-bounds for holds! Start...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
9
Low Profile Top 50
Superb and very sustained wall-climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
10
Rancho Cucamonga
Smart climbing that is low in the grade. Start at a pocketed yellow streak just left of Banshee's thin crack.16m. Reach up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
11
Banshee
A neat little pitch. Start 50m up the ramp at the first section of pocketed wall below a thin crack in the grey wall 2m left of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For AVON GORGE

    Yellow Edge
    "An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & ..." 10/Sep top50

    M1
    "unless it has changed - and i've done it three times in the last twenty five yea..." 14/Apr top50

    Nightmare
    "route is tricky and the last section this not very good protection. still worth ..." 17/Feb top50

    Mirage
    "Did this straight after Arms Race, but even so, the crux felt HARD. You get a se..." 03/Nov top50

    New Horizons
    "The second pitch is probably more 5b than 5c." 13/Oct

    Great Central Route
    "A very good varied route. But why the sustained symbol?" 22/Aug top50

    Hell Gates
    "Great route...better to combine 1st two pitches into one long lead imho. Exiting..." 10/Apr top50

    Limbo
    "Can be done in one pitch, but surely it's better to finish left towards the bela..." 21/Aug top50

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