Malbogies Area

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The right-hand side of the Main Wall has a number of long, hard routes that typify the best of what the Avon Gorge has to offer on its quarried walls.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pink Ginsane
A very exposed and runout pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
2
Think Pink
The central line of weakness in the suspended white and pink wall is brilliant. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 6a
3
Krapp's Last Tape
An Avon rite of passage. Good climbing with a bold feel, although the gear improves as height is gained. Start at a peg and nut...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5b
4
Main Wall Eliminate Top 50
An intimidating pitch featuring both delicate and strenuous climbing. Start at the peg and nut belay of Krapp's Last...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
5
Malbogies
Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
6
Central Wall Top 50
A high-quality climb on very good rock, with a lot of fixed protection. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line. Photo...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
7
The Preter
An airy voyage taking in some of the Main Wall's best positions. The climbing is very sustained and some of it serious....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For AVON GORGE

    Yellow Edge
    "An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & ..." 10/Sep top50

    M1
    "unless it has changed - and i've done it three times in the last twenty five yea..." 14/Apr top50

    Nightmare
    "route is tricky and the last section this not very good protection. still worth ..." 17/Feb top50

    Mirage
    "Did this straight after Arms Race, but even so, the crux felt HARD. You get a se..." 03/Nov top50

    New Horizons
    "The second pitch is probably more 5b than 5c." 13/Oct

    Great Central Route
    "A very good varied route. But why the sustained symbol?" 22/Aug top50

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