Boulder Cove

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Great Corner and Ocean Wall >

Sport
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Level

An excellent, beautifully located wall of compact limestone with a number of worthwhile sport routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Brean Dream
The first and easiest line on the wall, but no pushover. Start just right of some very poor rock at the far left end of the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
2
Kraken
A pleasing pitch as long as the correct line is taken. Start at a steep 3m flake-crack.18m. Take the stiff layback crack to...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
3
Bikini Atoll
This good line up the centre of the wall is spoilt by some sharp rock and lichen. Start at the 3m flake-crack as for...
 
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+
4
Coral Sea Top 50
Intricate and surprisingly steep wall-climbing. Start just left of a wide diagonal crack that sprouts from the beach.Photo...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
5
Chepito Top 50
The first of the steeper sports routes has some excellent moves but ageing bolts. Start at the diagonal crack.20m. Nip up...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
6
Pearl Harbour Top 50
Fine and pumpy. Start at the diagonal crack as for Chepito.Photo on page 45.18m. Move up easily, step right and then...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
7
Tide Rising Top 50
Hard and fingery wall-climbing that is at the top of the grade. Start just right of the diagonal crack of Chepito.20m. Take...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
8
Clashing Socks
One of the longer lines on the wall that features a tough section on the final headwall. Start below an ivy patch.24m....
 
1 Stars
7b
9
Black Snake Moan Top 50
A smart line. Start on the ledges just left of the gearing-up block.20m. Climb the fingery brown wall to the break and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
10
Brean Topping Top 50
The testpiece of the sport routes at Brean Down and one of Somerset's most difficult undertakings. Start on the raised ledges...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
11
Storm Warning Top 50
An excellent and much-attempted link-up. Start on the raised ledges just left of the gearing-up block. Photo this page.20m....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
12
Chulilla Top 50
Brean Downâs best sport route is well worth tracking down. Start on the large block as the ledge levels out.17m. Step off...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
13
Prisoner of Conscience
A short bouldery start gets you going on this one. Start just right of the large block.20m. The bouldery lower wall gains a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
14
Milky Bar Kid
A link-up that takes in the crux moves of three lines. Start just right of the large block as for Prisoner of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
8a
15
The Guilt Edge
The arete above the initial wall of Prisoner of Conscience extends the quality climbing. Start just right of the large...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
16
Bullworker Top 50
Butch stuff, and a touch reachy with it. Start at a small corner 3m right of the large block.17m. The overhanging, narrow...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c
17
El Chocco
Quality climbing with a sting in the tail. Start 6m right of the large block.17m. Leave the ground with some difficulty and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c
18
Global Solutions
A worthwhile link-up. Start 6m right of the large block.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
19
The Roof of Inequity
An entertaining and spectacular pitch. Start 6m right of the large block, as for El Chocco.17m. The right-hand line of...
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For BREAN DOWN

    Tide Rising
    "First F7b+, having worked the moves on a previous trip!! Wonderful route." 23/Sep top50

    Pearl Harbour
    "Better of the two 7a's and fluffable if you are a muppet after the initial jug p..." 21/Feb top50

    Tide Rising
    "Locals told me a hold came off and Ian Vickers failed to onsight it? General con..." 31/Jan top50

    Milky Bar Kid
    "This is a quality outing. The moves from prisoner to the break of bullworker ar..." 11/Jan

    Chulilla
    "This should start ground up, stepping off the block is definitely cheating!" 15/Sep top50

    Chulilla
    "Lush." 14/Jul top50

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