Adjacent Areas
< None | Great Corner and Ocean Wall >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level
5 minsWindy
An excellent, beautifully located wall of compact limestone with a number of worthwhile sport routes. Guidebook page 79.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Brean Dream The first and easiest line on the wall, but no pushover. Start just right of some very poor rock at the far left end of the... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a+ |
2 |
Kraken A pleasing pitch as long as the correct line is taken. Start at a steep 3m flake-crack.18m. Take the stiff layback crack to... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
3 |
Bikini Atoll This good line up the centre of the wall is spoilt by some sharp rock and lichen. Start at the 3m flake-crack as for... | Pumpy Crimpy | 6c+ |
4 |
Coral Sea Top 50 Intricate and surprisingly steep wall-climbing. Start just left of a wide diagonal crack that sprouts from the beach.Photo... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
5 |
Chepito Top 50 The first of the steeper sports routes has some excellent moves but ageing bolts. Start at the diagonal crack.20m. Nip up... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
6 |
Pearl Harbour Top 50 Fine and pumpy. Start at the diagonal crack as for Chepito.Photo on page 45.18m. Move up easily, step right and then... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
7 |
Tide Rising Top 50 Hard and fingery wall-climbing that is at the top of the grade. Start just right of the diagonal crack of Chepito.20m. Take... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
8 |
Clashing Socks One of the longer lines on the wall that features a tough section on the final headwall. Start below an ivy patch.24m.... | 1 Stars | 7b |
9 |
Black Snake Moan Top 50 A smart line. Start on the ledges just left of the gearing-up block.20m. Climb the fingery brown wall to the break and... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
10 |
Brean Topping Top 50 The testpiece of the sport routes at Brean Down and one of Somerset's most difficult undertakings. Start on the raised ledges... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8b |
11 |
Storm Warning Top 50 An excellent and much-attempted link-up. Start on the raised ledges just left of the gearing-up block. Photo this page.20m.... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
12 |
Chulilla Top 50 Brean Down’s best sport route is well worth tracking down. Start on the large block as the ledge levels out.17m. Step off... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
13 |
Prisoner of Conscience A short bouldery start gets you going on this one. Start just right of the large block.20m. The bouldery lower wall gains a... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
14 |
Milky Bar Kid A link-up that takes in the crux moves of three lines. Start just right of the large block as for Prisoner of... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
15 |
The Guilt Edge The arete above the initial wall of Prisoner of Conscience extends the quality climbing. Start just right of the large... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c |
16 |
Bullworker Butch stuff, and a touch reachy with it. Start at a small corner 3m right of the large block.17m. The overhanging, narrow... | 2 Stars Reachy Strong | 7c |
17 |
El Chocco Top 50 Quality climbing with a sting in the tail. Start 6m right of the large block.17m. Leave the ground with some difficulty and... | 3 Stars Technical | 7c |
18 |
Global Solutions A worthwhile link-up. Start 6m right of the large block. | 1 Stars Strong | 7c |
19 |
The Roof of Inequity An entertaining and spectacular pitch. Start 6m right of the large block, as for El Chocco.17m. The right-hand line of... | 2 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
