Gun Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

The buttress nearest the road has a good collection of easier routes on rough rock. With the added attraction of a delightful grassy base, the place is worth half a day and donít forget to bring the picnic. In front of and below Gun Buttress is a pleasant face with a small collection of climbs, especially in the lower grades. It is usually quiet and is worth a short visit.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Shadow Wall
12m. The shady left-hand side of the buttress has one long reach. Exit to the right under the gun and mantelshelf to finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
2
Life During Wartime
10m. The bulging left arete of the buttress is short-lived but manages to be a pumpy little number despite this.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
3
Randy's Wall
14m. Start under the arete but trend up and right to pass an overhang gaining the centre of the wall strenuously and a poor...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5a
4
Magnum Force
14m. Power through the centre of the bulges to the 'rest' on Randy's Wall then traverse left to climb close to the arete.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Gunpowder Crack
12m. The enticing hand jamming crack is a swine to enter but much more pleasant above.
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 5b
6
Master Blaster
10m. The right-hand side wall on poor sloping holds, to a final long reach for a shallow crack. Tiny wires just about protect.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E1 5c
7
Loader's Bay
8m. The deep and ferny groove gives easy bridging or a grovel.
2 user comments
 D
8
Ammo
8m. The short arete and wall above.
4 user comments
 
Reachy
S 4a
9
Long John
8m. The jutting snout is gained by a leap and short struggle. The short may have to use lateral thinking.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 5b
10
Three Real Men Dancing
8m. The undercut wall is short, sharp and difficult to access.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
11
Green Chimney
8m. As the name suggests, this fissure is often verdant.
1 user comment
 D
12
Artillery Corner
8m. .. and just right again is a similarly lurid feature.
4 user comments
 D
13
Gangway
8m. The ramp on the right wall. It can also be reached direct, at about S 4c, by a swift pull and finished direct at the same...
4 user comments
 VD
14
Green Parrot
8m. Gaining the hanging beak is a touch butch.
9 user comments
 
Strong
VS 5b
15
Bosun's Slab
8m. The mild slab on the right-hand side of the prow.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
16
Concave Slab
8m. The scooped slab is also pretty straightforward.
5 user comments
 D
17
Convex or Perplexed
8m. Pull awkwardly over the nose then finish easily.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 5b
18
Adjacent Slab
8m. The narrow slab is easy enough. A Direct Start is 4c.
6 user comments
 VD
19
Hypotenuse
8m. The open corner by mild bridging and jamming.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
20
Opposite
8m. Start just right of the open corner and head straight up the wall on good holds.
4 user comments
 S 4a
21
Vertigo
10m. The undercut left-hand arete of the jutting buttress has a steep start on jams and pleasant jug-hauling above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS 4c
22
Armed and Dangerous
10m. The roof is crossed at its widest point with trepidation.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
23
Dynamite Groove
10m. From a convenient boulder, pull into the hanging groove then continue direct.
 
Strong
HVS 5b
24
Sunny Side
6m. The centre of the final short wall on the far right.
4 user comments
 S 4a
25
Slopy Side
6m. The right-hand side of the final face, starting at a hole.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
26
Slab and Crack
8m. The features left of the slanting chimney has a tricky start.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
27
Moglichkeit
8m. The narrow chimney is a grovel, especially at the top.
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
28
Plimsoll Line
10m. Gain the porthole from the cave and finish up the wall above on a disappointing selection of holds.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
29
Porthole
10m. Climb to the hole then head portwards to an arete finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
30
Portside
10m. The left edge of the slab leads to steeper rock and the right-hand porthole.
1 user comment
 S 4a
31
Leaning Slab
10m. The slab on the right and the steeper wall above.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
32
Trango 2
8m. The centre of the tiny face on the block, to a high crux.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Neb Buttress
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

    Portside
    "The start provides a challenge on a damp day: either a huge reach up (more lunge..." 04/Sep

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "First E1." 17/Aug

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "I don't think the description's very good,'cause it's very clear where it goes w..." 16/Aug

    Parliament
    "Never HVS in a million years." 12/Jul

    Sinuous Crack
    "Though it was about half height and only offered a poor placement and not thread..." 30/Jun

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