Gun Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

The buttress nearest the road has a good collection of easier routes on rough rock. With the added attraction of a delightful grassy base, the place is worth half a day and donít forget to bring the picnic. In front of and below Gun Buttress is a pleasant face with a small collection of climbs, especially in the lower grades. It is usually quiet and is worth a short visit.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Shadow Wall
The north facing side-wall of the buttress has a long reach. Exit to the right under the gun and mantelshelf to finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
2
Life During Wartime
The bulging left arete of the buttress is short-lived but manages to be a pumpy little number despite this.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
3
Randy's Wall
From under the arete trend right past the bulge to the centre of the wall and a poor rest. Finish delicately up the face.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5a
4
Magnum Force
Power through the centre of the bulges to the rest on Randy's Wall then traverse left to climb close to the arete.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5b
5
Gunpowder Crack
The enticing hand-jamming crack is a swine to enter but much more pleasant above.
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 5b
6
Master Blaster
The right-hand side-wall on poor sloping holds, to a final long reach for a shallow crack. Tricky tiny wires just about...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E1 5c
7
Loader's Bay
The deep and ferny groove gives easy bridging or a grovel.
2 user comments
 D
8
Ammo
The short arete and wall above.
4 user comments
 
Reachy
S 4a
9
Long John
The jutting snout is gained by a leap and brief struggle. The short may have to use lateral thinking.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 5b
10
Three Real Men Dancing
The undercut wall is short, sharp and difficult to access.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
11
Green Chimney
As the name suggests, this fissure is often verdant.
1 user comment
 D
12
Artillery Corner
Another lurid feature.
4 user comments
 D
13
Gangway
Amble up the ramp on the right wall. It can also be reached direct, at about V0 4c, by a swift pull.
4 user comments
 VD
14
Green Parrot
Gaining the hanging beak is a touch butch. V1 with mats.
9 user comments
 
Strong
VS 5b
15
Bosun's Slab
The mild slab on the right-hand side of the prow.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
16
Concave Slab
The scooped slab is also pretty straightforward.
5 user comments
 D
17
Convex or Perplexed
Pull awkwardly over the nose then finish easily.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 5b
18
Adjacent Slab
The narrow slab is easy enough. A Direct Start is 4c.
6 user comments
 VD
19
Hypotenuse
The open corner by utra-mild bridging and jamming.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
20
Opposite
Just right of the open corner head straight up the juggy wall.
4 user comments
 S 4a
21
Vertigo
The undercut left-hand arete of the jutting buttress has a steep start on jams and pleasant jug-hauling above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS 4c
22
Armed and Dangerous
The roof is crossed at its widest point with trepidation.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
23
Dynamite Groove
From a convenient boulder, pull into the hanging groove then continue direct.
 
Strong
HVS 5b
24
Funny Side
The wall on the far left.
 S 4a
25
Topside
Stretch up the wall.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HS 4b
26
Sunny Side
The centre line here is the original one.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
27
Right Side
Just left of the rounded arete.
 S 4a
28
Slopy Side
The right-hand side of the final face, starting at a hole.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Neb Buttress
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

    Portside
    "The start provides a challenge on a damp day: either a huge reach up (more lunge..." 04/Sep

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "First E1." 17/Aug

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