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Lots of sun!
Up and Down
12 minsWindy
This is a hidden gem of a buttress that is only revealed on the last few metres of the approach walk. The crag is not high but is vertical and composed of compact limestone yielding climbing that is both sustained and technical. Protection is just about adaquate on most of the routes. Guidebook page 321.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
February Wall 13m. Start at the small yew tree on the left-hand side of the clean wall. Follow the wall and tricky corner to the top. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
2 |
Broad Sword 16m. A cracking pitch up the left-to-right slanting weakness of thin corners and overlaps. High in the grade. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
3 |
Broad Sword Direct 16m. Start up Broadsword but climb direct to the finish of Mutton Dagger from the jug. Scary and bold. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
4 |
Mutton Dagger Top 50 16m. Quality climbing up the centre of the wall finishing past the very old bolt on the headwall. A thread on the lower wall is... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E3 5c |
5 |
Cut a Line Direct up the blank wall to finish left of Prime Cut. | 2 Stars | E4 5c |
6 |
Prime Cut 15m. A testing route that starts up Mutton Dagger before breaking out rightwards to a crozzly niche. Finish straight up. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E2 5b |
7 |
Mint Sauce 14m. A short hard pitch on very compact rock. Start just to the left of the arete and climb up into the base of the clean-cut... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E2 5c |
8 |
Sir Loin 16m. A good little expedition tracing a diagonal line leftwards from the base of the right arete. The start is a bit puzzling... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
9 |
Little Corner 13m. The pleasing corner is a little grassy in its upper reaches. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
10 |
The Glory Seekers 10m. Start down and right of a tree in the corner. Climb up the cracked wall until gear can be placed out left in the two... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E2 6a |
11 |
The Arches 12m. A short and sharp number up to, and over, the arch past a thread (usually in place). 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
12 |
Return of the Glory Seekers 11m. An eliminate taking the wall between The Arches and the arete to the right. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E2 6a |
13 |
Meerschaum 12m. The stepped-corner with a small sapling at its base. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5a |
14 |
Satori 12m. The next groove and corner just right of Meerschaum. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
15 |
Power Pinch 10m. Start just right of the block and climb the seam to the horizontal break. Now stand in the break and climb direct to the... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E4 6b |
16 |
Go Johnny Go 10m. Start 2m right of Power Pinch and move up directly to the horizontal break. Follow the crack and corner above to finish. A... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E2 5c |
17 |
Slap and Giggle 10m. A bit of an eliminate up the arete and hanging corner. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
18 |
Custard Crack 10m. A good clean romp up the corner/crack with ample large gear. The best easy line here. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
