Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
Downhill
3 minsTidal
Windy
A bird ban is in effect on this face between March 1st and July
The centrepiece of the Old Redoubt is its Great Cave, one of the UK's most impressive sea-cliffs. The immense overhangs and neck-straining lines are some of the West Country's most spectacular. Guidebook page 346.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Goddess of Gloom Sustained climbing on a strong line-up the wall left of the Great Cave. Start on a good tidal ledge at the base of a large... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
2 |
Moonraker One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Dreadnought A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above.... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
4 |
Seventh Dread Although a linking pitch, this inventive section of climbing allows the magnificent lower section of Moonraker to be connected... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
5 |
Savage Earthsea An incredible link-up that forces a chilling line through some of the Great Cave's most daunting territory. Start 8m to the... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | E6 6c |
6 |
Caveman A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea-cliff. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
7 |
Yardarm The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
8 |
Magical Mystery Tour A mighty-fine sea-level traverse that crosses the terrain from the Great Cave to the headland to the south. The climbing is... | 3 Stars DWS Pumpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Rainbow Bridge Wonderful positions, combined with superb rock and climbing mark out this long sea-level traverse as one of the coastlines best... | 3 Stars DWS Pumpy | E4 6b |