Main Crag

Adjacent Areas
< Ivy Buttress  |  Woodcutter's Buttress >

Trad
Lots of sun!
8 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The Main Crag is a long low wall of vertical rock of generally good quality but some care is required on a couple of sections. The majority of the routes are sport climbs and tend to be short and intense. Only the most significant trad lines are included here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Northern Humour
The rounded grey arete. No bridging.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
2
Sweet Jean Vincent
The wall and leaning slim corner/groove right of the arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
There Ain't Half Been Some
A short and fingery direct start to Sweet Jean Vincent.
 
Crimpy
6c+
4
Hit Me With Your Clipping Stick
A steep bulge just left of August Groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
5
August Groove
The right-trending groove line is an old trad line.
 VS 5a
6
Life on Mars
Climb the rounded rib finishing leftwards into the upper corner of August Groove.
 
Technical
6b
7
New Bolts and Panties
The left-hand side of the wall above a tree stump.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
8
Tarciana
Sustained climbing up the shallow groove moving right to the lower-off of Resins to be Cheerful. Variation, 6b+ - Climb...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
9
Resins to be Cheerful
Climb the smooth wall. Three resin bolts to a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6c
10
Poison Ivy
Move off a large flake and climb the wall to a thin flake/crack.
 E1 5b
11
Bad Genie
Follow the clean wall to a thin overlap high up.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
12
The Boltergeist
A technical lower section leads past the staggered overlaps.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
13
The Haunting
The wall and small roof are climbed on dubious rock.
 
Loose
6b+
14
Boisterous Bloater
Climb past two small overlaps to finish up a stiff layback.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
15
Final Offering
The wall to a small right-facing corner high on the face.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
16
The Last Fish Supper
Climb the wall and steep groove passing the ledge.
 5c
17
The Hearty Breakfast
Gain the ledge then climb a shallow groove and finish up a hanging corner.
 6a+
18
Root Sixty Six
The line just to the left of the tree has a tough mid-section.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
19
A Block off the Old Chip
From just right of the tree, climb leftwards to finish up the headwall on good rock.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
20
Rusty Parts
Start as for A Block off the Old Chip and climb the wall direct past a thread.
 E1 5b
21
Mayfly
Climb direct and cross the end of The Ramp.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
22
Rampage
Climb to and cross the The Ramp at two-thirds height.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
23
Ramp Raiders
An excellent pitch on superb rock. The bolted line that crosses the middle of The Ramp saves its best for the moves leaving the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
24
Ramp Direct
Start up The Ramp but climb the bulge to a small ledge. Finish up the easier wall above.
 E1 5b
25
The Ramp
Follow the right-to-left line to its end before stepping around the arete to finish. A good pitch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
26
Haggard Herring
The flared groove above the start of The Ramp.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
27
Breadsnapper
Hard moves through the low bulge to easier climbing.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
6c+
28
Branching Out
Start directly behind the tree. Climb past the steep bulge and finish straight up.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
6c
29
Muted Mackerel
Good moves on excellent rock.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
30
Mainlining
The appealing wall and bulges was an old trad line, that is now fully bolted.
 
1 Stars
7b+
31
Audience with Jello
Climb the wall right of Mainlining, past some difficult undercutting, to a slap for a break. Better but well-spaced holds lead...
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c
32
Stunned Mullett
The wall has a bouldery sequence of moves. Avoid the large loose block in the bulge.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
7b+
33
Flights of Fancy
Start just left of some low tufas. Make delicate moves right and then a stiff move up to access the upper wall.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
34
Jackdaw Hole
A powerful start gains the hole. From the hole pull right to a small tree and finish direct.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
35
Pole Dancing
Start at undercut tufas and climb direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
36
The Maypole
An old diagonal line that is now partially bolted.
 E2 6a
37
Maypole Revisited
Climb the wall right of Pole Dancing to a difficult entry into the hanging crack. Don't use the arete of Moribund's groove.
 
1 Stars
6c
38
Moribund
An old trad line now close to bolts. Climb the small groove and step right before climbing to the top.
 HVS 5b
39
Northern Sole
Follow the slab to the lower-off of First Plaice.
 6a
40
First Plaice
The wall and groove gains a steep finish up blocks.
 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For GIGGLESWICK NORTH

    Jorjas Connection
    "hi Mark can you stick Anieshas connection on here too, shes 7 and gutted her sis..." 25/Nov

    The Brink
    "Changed from 4b * to VS 4b *, no votes" 18/Nov

    Illywacker
    "Probaby 7c!" 26/May

    Sunset Boulevard
    "Certainly felt worth of 7c to me. Two burly cruxes." 24/May

    Acid Test
    "Direly long reach for the jug below the peg, with next to nothing for your feet...." 22/May

    Sunset Boulevard
    "I reckon if you sit on ledge halfway its 7b+, if you plough on through its 7c." 06/Jun

    Sunset Boulevard
    "So is this route's consensus 7b+? Just wondering as the Northern Limestone and ..." 06/Jun

    Illywacker
    "You slagging off my bolt placements Paul. I did equip it ground-up like the rest..." 20/Apr

    Stunned Mullett
    "A short technical boulder problem really which is easier for the tall. It is pro..." 05/Jun

    Rampage
    "I think the bolts are quite nicely placed. There is nothing random about it" 14/May

    Illywacker
    "dont be a whimp" 12/May

    Kleptomania
    "slightly ironic" 09/May

    Kleptomania
    "Why chop the chain it was done with the chain, if someone doesnt aggree with the..." 08/May

    The Boltergeist
    "Nice" 26/Feb

    Illywacker
    "5th bolt (Petzl Inox) is a little loose." 29/Aug

    Kleptomania
    "It's a much better route (and a bit harder) if you finish on the jug up and righ..." 24/Aug

    Illywacker
    "This is a great route but is never 7b+ - feels like good value 7c!" 14/Aug

    Rampage
    "awkward, wandering, and randomly ( badly ) placed fourth bolt set you up for a r..." 13/Jul

    Illywacker
    "loose 5th bolt. : (" 03/Aug

    Hollywood Bowl
    "Second pitch has bolt aswell, but no lower off as yet" 12/Jun

    Kleptomania
    "i did the route 11 years ago when i was 18 i did the maximum at malham the day b..." 31/Aug

    Sunset Boulevard
    "A great route with a tricky last clip, 7b+" 01/Aug

    Sunset Boulevard
    "good diverse pitch, 7b+ and a bit easier than Illywhacker" 23/Jun

    Sunset Boulevard
    "Yes 7b+" 18/Jun

    Sunset Boulevard
    "Now fully bolted. 7b+?" 04/Jun

    Whitelock Witchery
    "always wet" 05/Apr

    Muted Mackerel
    "possibly the easiest 7b+ in Yorkshire" 24/Mar

    Search for comments