Sector Super Medius

Adjacent Areas
< Aiguille Bertine  |  Sector G.T.M. >

Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill

The show-piece of the crag has a set of desperate face routes and the occasional easier line squeezing between them. All the routes here feel hard for the grade. Originally many of these were protected with spaced 8mm bolts and home-made wire threads. Even with modern gear they remain tough and spooky undertakings - steel fingers and the crispest of foot-work may see you succeed! A small rack or wires and maybe a couple of sky-hooks may be found of use to plug the gaps between the bolts, or as a way of extricating yourself it all becomes a bit too much.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La mouche
1) 3, 2) 2, 3) 3+. A gentle lead that skirts the main event. Not typical of the area but gets you to the top!
 
2 Stars
3+
2
La nef des fous
A direct version of the loopy section of the previous climb.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
3
La tse-tse
1) 5+, 2) 5+. A nice two-pitch climb up the edge of the wall.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5c
4
Bestagnasse verolique
The first of the toughies.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7a+
5
L'ovni
Fine and sustained. A right-hand variation is made a tiny bit easier by managing to avoid the fierce crux-moves - 6b+.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
6c
6
La sixieme metatarsien
A big pitch passing the right-hand edge of the overlap high on the wall.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
7
La direct des aromates
A fine pitch following the juggy flakes and continuation groove.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
8
Les aromats
1) 4+, 2) 4+, 3) 4+, 4) 4. Devious, smelly (in a nice way!) and very worthwhile at the grade. Trend right to enter the...
 
3 Stars
4c
9
Imagine
Cuts out all the weaving about on the first pitches of Les Aromats.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
10
La grand lessive
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a
11
Annabella
The rugged slab above the next climb offers an easy extension or an alternative finish to Les Aromats.
 
1 Stars
4c
12
Hyper medusee
Climb to a ledge then move out right in search of difficulties.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a+
13
Hyper medius
An easier counter diagonal to the previous climb, though with bolts that are even more spaced than is the norm round here.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6c
14
Super medius Top 50
"A magnificent bold route. Highly improbable." Pete Livesey 1980.Not a bad effort for 1974. Sustained and technical, the short...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a+
15
Niki chagrin d' humeur
A more modern variation on a theme.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
16
Le medius
Desperate - an even better effort for 1974!
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
7c
17
L'eve les mains
An unknown quantity up the vague grey streak - though doubtless it is at least as desperate as the stuff to the left!
 5c
18
Levitation
It is all in the name!
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
19
Gouroumaniak
Protected by older bolts, and therefore not popular.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6c+
20
Un petit bout d'inconnu
A bit of an unknown quantity - according to the name.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
21
La pagode
An easier line, and very worthwhile too. 70m rope essential - rack of nuts very useful!
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a
22
Les fagots
1) 5+, 2) 5+. A worthwhile easier route, though the bolts are a bit spaced. A small selection of nuts might help calm the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
5c
23
Un eclair d'eternite
Start up Les Fagots, then move right and do a bit of weaving about to link the best holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
24
Arpeges
The more direct version - tough and a bit of an eliminate.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
25
L'inflation
1) 7a, 2) 6b+. Climb the right-hand side of a shallow circular feature past a couple of shrubby patches, continue up the tough...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a
26
Grill homard
The longer, harder right-hand finish is more in keeping with the first pitch of L'Inflation.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
27
Melanges
k Doyouspitingliche 3hstc 6c+
 
2 Stars
6c
28
Bismila
A shorter pitch (22m) passing a shrubby ledge early on.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
29
La gassi touil
1) 6b, 2) 6b, 3) 6a. The full height of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
30
Direct de la gassi touil
1) 6c, 2) 6b+. A more direct version to up the ante a bit!
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
31
Le spleen
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6b+
32
Un eclair d'absurdite
1) 6a, 2) 6a. Start up the rather shrubby rock to a stance then continue up cleaner rock above.
 
2 Stars
6a
33
Le chas
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The easiest line here - devious and worthwhile.
 
2 Stars
5c
34
Messaline
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
35
Bengale 99
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
36
L'énsigienord
Start up the wide, grey streak.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
37
Pet des anges
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
38
La tamanrasset
The classic groove-line is a must do.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
39
Voie du Bout
The last decent line on the wall. Start up the vegetated flake.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a