Rockfax | Databases | Sainte Victoire

Adjacent Areas
< Aiguille Bertine | Sector G.T.M. >

Sport

Lots of sun!

Uphill

15 mins

Windy

The show-piece of the crag has a set of desperate face routes and the occasional easier line squeezing between them. All the routes here feel hard for the grade. Originally many of these were protected with spaced 8mm bolts and home-made wire threads. Even with modern gear they remain tough and spooky undertakings - steel fingers and the crispest of foot-work may see you succeed! A small rack or wires and maybe a couple of sky-hooks may be found of use to plug the gaps between the bolts, or as a way of extricating yourself it all becomes a bit too much. Guidebook page 40.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	La mouche 1) 3, 2) 2, 3) 3+. A gentle lead that skirts the main event. Not typical of the area but gets you to the top!	2 Stars	3+
2	La nef des fous A direct version of the loopy section of the previous climb.	1 Stars Crimpy	6a+
3	La tse-tse 1) 5+, 2) 5+. A nice two-pitch climb up the edge of the wall.	2 Stars Crimpy	5+
4	Bestagnasse verolique The first of the toughies.	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	7a+
5	L'ovni Fine and sustained. A right-hand variation is made a tiny bit easier by managing to avoid the fierce crux-moves - 6b+.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery	6c
6	La sixieme metatarsien A big pitch passing the right-hand edge of the overlap high on the wall.	3 Stars Crimpy	6c
7	La direct des aromates A fine pitch following the juggy flakes and continuation groove.	3 Stars Pumpy	5+
8	Les aromats 1) 4+, 2) 4+, 3) 4+, 4) 4. Devious, smelly (in a nice way!) and very worthwhile at the grade. Trend right to enter the...	3 Stars	4+
9	Imagine Cuts out all the weaving about on the first pitches of Les Aromats.	1 Stars Technical	5+
10	La grand lessive	1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery	6a
11	Annabella The rugged slab above the next climb offers an easy extension or an alternative finish to Les Aromats.	1 Stars	4+
12	Hyper medusee Climb to a ledge then move out right in search of difficulties.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery	7a+
13	Hyper medius An easier counter diagonal to the previous climb, though with bolts that are even more spaced than is the norm round here.	2 Stars Technical Fluttery	6c
14	Super medius "A magnificent bold route. Highly improbable." Pete Livesey 1980.Not a bad effort for 1974. Sustained and technical, the short...	3 Stars Reachy Crimpy Fluttery	7a+
15	Niki chagrin d' humeur A more modern variation on a theme.	2 Stars Technical	7c
16	Le medius Desperate - an even better effort for 1974!	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery	7c
17	L'eve les mains An unknown quantity up the vague grey streak - though doubtless it is at least as desperate as the stuff to the left!		5+
18	Levitation It is all in the name!	2 Stars Crimpy	6c+
19	Gouroumaniak Protected by older bolts, and therefore not popular.	1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery	6c+
20	Un petit bout d'inconnu A bit of an unknown quantity - according to the name.	2 Stars Crimpy	6b
21	La pagode An easier line, and very worthwhile too. 70m rope essential - rack of nuts very useful!	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery	6a
22	Les fagots 1) 5+, 2) 5+. A worthwhile easier route, though the bolts are a bit spaced. A small selection of nuts might help calm the...	2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	5+
23	Un eclair d'eternite Start up Les Fagots, then move right and do a bit of weaving about to link the best holds.	1 Stars Crimpy	6a
24	Arpeges The more direct version - tough and a bit of an eliminate.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a
25	L'inflation 1) 7a, 2) 6b+. Climb the right-hand side of a shallow circular feature past a couple of shrubby patches, continue up the tough...	3 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery	7a
26	Grill homard The longer, harder right-hand finish is more in keeping with the first pitch of L'Inflation.	2 Stars Crimpy	7a
27	Melanges k Doyouspitingliche 3hstc 6c+	2 Stars	6c
28	Bismila A shorter pitch (22m) passing a shrubby ledge early on.	1 Stars Crimpy	6b+
29	La gassi touil 1) 6b, 2) 6b, 3) 6a. The full height of the wall.	3 Stars Pumpy	6b
30	Direct de la gassi touil 1) 6c, 2) 6b+. A more direct version to up the ante a bit!	3 Stars Crimpy	6c
31	Le spleen	2 Stars Reachy Technical	6b+
32	Un eclair d'absurdite 1) 6a, 2) 6a. Start up the rather shrubby rock to a stance then continue up cleaner rock above.	2 Stars	6a
33	Le chas 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The easiest line here - devious and worthwhile.	2 Stars	5+
34	Messaline	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	6b
35	Bengale 99	3 Stars Technical Crimpy	7a+
36	L'énsigienord Start up the wide, grey streak.	2 Stars Crimpy	6b+
37	Pet des anges	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7c
38	La tamanrasset The classic groove-line is a must do.	3 Stars Pumpy	6b+
39	Voie du Bout The last decent line on the wall. Start up the vegetated flake.	1 Stars Crimpy	7a

Sector Super Medius

Access Issues for Cote D'Azur

Latest Comments