La Grotte de l'Ermite

Adjacent Areas
< Escalier des Géants  |  La Paroi Jaune >

Sport
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

An impressive pillar forming a long outside wall with some good multi-pitch routes and a steep cave with many desperate steep offerings. Guidebook page 58.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carte postale
1) 6a, 2) 6a+, 3) 6b. Trends left following exposed ramps above the steeper rock before finishing direct.
 
3 Stars
6b
2
La Fred
1) 6b, 2) 6b, 3) 6a. The left-hand side of the pillar direct.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
3
Eperon gauche de la Victor Martin
1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 5.
 
2 Stars
6a
4
Arête Victor Martin
1) 3+, 2) 5, 3) 4+, 4) 5+. An old classic following exposed groove up the right-hand edge of the pillar. Not bad for 1937!
 
3 Stars
5c
5
Fisure Victor Martin
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Helios
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
7
Les Quillards
1) 6a+, 2) 6c, 3) 7a+. Start inside the cave and climb the side-wall to reach the hanging cracks above, a worthwhile pitch at a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
L'Amour Socier
High on the left wall of the cave. A 30m pitch.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
9
Let them try
Another long one high on the left wall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
10
Le sens de la vie
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b+
11
La baume
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
12
Boby in the sky
The extension is up with the hardest.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
9a
13
Les étoiles meurent aussi
Continuing to the high lower-off is 8b.
 
2 Stars
7b
14
Chandelle
A short left trend pitch to the previous route.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
15
Le denti
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
16
Liasons dangereuses
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
17
Sicadance
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
18
Direct de l'ermite
1) 7c+, 2) 7b+. An old aid line, now done in two tough pitches.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
19
Adieu à la femme blanche
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
20
La course des nuages
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
21
Bout de femme
 
2 Stars
7b+
22
La grotte
 3
23
Attention la marche
 4a
24
Renatosacado
 5c
25
Goutte jaune
 5a