Pot Scar Routes

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Early morning sun
12 mins
Uphill
Windy

Pot Scar is a great little cliff packed with nice routes that are mostly on good rock and clear of vegetation. The left side of the cliff has a small buttress with a number of hard wall climbs. To the right of the descent gully, after a broken section, the wall gains height and has some great mid-grade climbs culminating in the classy corner of Nirvana. The right-hand side of the main section of Pot Scar holds its best and most popular routes. The rock on this section is for the most part superb, if a bit polished in places, although this is not really much of a problem. The climbs are quite intense, especially the starts, and care is needed with protection.
Descent - In the central section of the cliff is a broken and grassy area of easier-angled ground, the descent line is down a short, polished chimney.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Omnivore
Climb the steep initial wall up cracks leftwards into the mid section of the defunct route Block Gangway. Finish more easily up...
 
Technical
VS
2
Herbivore
On the left side of the wall is a grey crozzly streak. With runners on its left, climb the streak to gain the easier upper...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
3
Carnivore
The best route on the wall. Climb the central section of the wall up a thin intermittent crack. Where the crack blanks out make...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
4
Diagonal
Climb the right-slanting line that becomes parallel thin cracks and finish up the easy ground above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
5
Perpendicular
The arete that joins Diagonal at the end of its thin parallel cracks.
 E2
6
Meek and Mild
The jagged groove on the right-hand side of the wall has some loose-looking blocks in it.
 
Loose
VS
7
Pot Luck
Climb the front of the short lower buttress and the cracks in the prow above it on the right.
 VS
8
Julie's Folly
Left of the hawthorn-filled groove is a large broken flake. Gain the top of the flake and move left and up a grey groove....
 VD
9
Pot Boiler
Climb the cracks in the wall just to the right of the hawthorn-filled groove.
 HS
10
Vetch
Ascend the difficult initial wall to an easing at a break and finish up the easier wall above
 
Technical
VS
11
Dry Wall
Hard moves past some small overlaps gain a horizontal break. Finish up either of the slim corners above.
 
Technical
VS
12
Payback
A good pitch. Start just left of a ledge at 2m. Move up right and then back left on grey rock to below a narrow right-facing...
 
1 Stars
HS
13
Rebate
Gain the ledge at 2m and climb the recessed wall above it, finishing rightwards on the best rock.
 
1 Stars
VD
14
Mary Jane
Loose. From the ledge at 2m use the loose flake to start up the face. From the top of a small pinnacle above finish easily.
 
Loose
VS
15
Cannabis
From the right-hand side of the ledge at 2m make a tricky pull up and right to a ledge. Finish up the wide flake-crack above.
 VS
16
The Stone Soup
The smooth-looking wall via a long reach or a dyno. Finish up the cracks in the wall above.
 
1 Stars
E1
17
Potholders' Proddle
No description included yet.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
18
Potholers' Proddle Direct
A fine little pitch. Climb the groove and then proceed directly up the slots and fingery wall above to below an arete. Climb...
 
2 Stars
E1
19
Mort's Crack
A challenging line with contrasting halves. Climb the thin left-leaning crack to the midway ledge. Move up right to the arete...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS
20
Nirvana
The long right-facing corner gives a fine pitch with the most difficult moves at the very start.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
21
The Long Black Veil
Climb up the wall to a flake and then pull left and up though the bulge onto the upper wall. Finish up the wall and arete.
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
22
The Pusher
The slim corner-line to the right of Nirvana is brilliant but has a hard start up a groove that requires care to protect.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
23
Addiction
Once again the start provides the crux. Move up the groove and then the wall on its left to access a big flake. Finish direct...
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
24
Sands of Time
From the top of the initial groove of L.S.D, climb the slabby wall to the left end of the overlap. Pull over the overlap and...
 HVS
25
L.S.D
From the top of the little groove, climb boldly up the grey high-angled slab to the overlap. Pull over the overlap on huge...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
26
Boil the Breakfast Early
Pull up onto the wall and head rightwards to the overlap and a junction with Overdose. Follow a thin crack above the bulge to a...
 
1 Stars
VS
27
Overdose
Take the left-facing corner behind the tree to the overlap. Move left and pull over it on huge incut pockets to a ledge below a...
 
2 Stars
VS
28
Equity
Start just right of the corner of Overdose and climb to a well-worn crack at 3m. Continue up the face to a flake and make a...
 
1 Stars
S
29
Bronco
Ascend the face right of Equity to a wide left-facing corner crack at 8m. Climb the corner to a grass ledge and then on to the...
 
Loose
S
30
Sidestepper
Climb the shallow rib to an overhang, move up right to another overhang and pass it to the right. Finish up the wall.
 VS
31
Car Stop
The staggered corners and wall right of Sidestepper.
 VS
32
Ash Tree Corner
The right-trending line of ledges and corners has some vegetation, but the midway corner is clean.
 VD
33
Pinnacle Wall
A loose pitch starting behind the tree and crossing Ash Tree Corner just below the top.
 
Loose
VS
34
A Touch of Grass
Climb grassy ledges to below a wide depression. Move up to a flake and follow the line up right and then back left to finish.
 E1
35
Ringing Groove
An attractive line with good rock. Climb the well-protected narrow groove to tricky moves out left and then back right at its...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
36
Sunspot
An enticing but bold line. Climb carefully up the shallow open groove to the small overhang, where there is a thread and a good...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
  • Latest Comments

    For POT SCAR

    The Pusher
    "Changed from VS 4c ** to VS 5a **, no votes" 27/Mar

    L.S.D
    "Decent gear in the groove should just keep you off the deck if you fluffed the c..." 14/Jun

    The Pusher
    "The start to Pusher is dangerously undergraded and has been the scene of several..." 09/Jun

    Sunspot
    "Some nice technical moves with good thread protection. Easy at E1 IMO." 02/Nov

    L.S.D
    "The crux move is fairly tricky, and not very protectable. I had the right hand h..." 04/Apr

    Nirvana
    "Did this at the weekend and after the awkward start it eases and gives a good re..." 23/Jun

    Nirvana
    "First route since school 20 years ago! Tricky first moves. Thanks for top instru..." 06/Dec

    Nirvana
    "Rather polised, awkward and with a few loose holds. No where near comparable in..." 23/Jul

    Nirvana
    "Arguably the best route on a crag littered with gems for the mid grade trad affi..." 11/Feb

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