Face du Grand Rappel

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Early morning sun
Downhill
40 mins
Sheltered

0


The most impressive piece of rock at En Vau by a mile is the long shadowy wall that forms the true right bank of the calanque. There is a fine collection of multi-pitch routes here, up to five pitches long. All have some fixed gear though the carrying of a light rack is a good idea. Many of the routes have been popular for years and have the patina to prove it. Guidebook page 100.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Super calanque
1) 4+, 2) 4, 3) 4+, 4) 5+. At the far end on the ledge system where a short abseil gains the start. Steady climbing (polished)...
 
2 Stars
5+
2
Le Calendal
1) 5, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+. Start from the water line, or from the ledge. Four pitches of sustained climbing on good...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a
3
La calanque
1) 4, 2) 4, 3) 4, 4) 4+, 5) 5. Start up a chimney groove then trend left to climb the crest of the buttress. It can be done in...
 
3 Stars
5
4
Directe de la calanque
1) 4, 2) 6a+, 3) 4+. A more direct and harder finish.
 
2 Stars
6a+
5
La gamma
1) 6a, 2) 6b+, 3) 6c, 4) 5, 5) 6a+. A fine sustained climb on good rock up the east-facing side-wall of the major groove.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
6
Eperon des americains
1) 5+, 2) 6b, 3) 5+, 4) 6b, 5) 6b+. A great classic put up by John Harlin, Gary Hemming and Royal Robins in 1963. Approach via...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
7
Pilier droit du couloir du milieu
1) 5+, 2) 6b, 3) 6b. The first bolt is a bit high. Above this things improve to a fine finale on the upper buttress.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
8
La tostine
1) 6a, 2) 5, 3) 4. Start up a wide flake/crack rising from the ledge. Carry a small rack to supplement the fixed gear.
 
2 Stars
6a
9
Pilier gauche de la Passerelle
1) 4+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 6a+. Start up a wide flake/crack rising from the ledge. Carry a small rack to supplement the fixed...
 
2 Stars
6a+
10
Pilier droite de la Passerelle
1) 4+, 2) 5+, 3) 4+, 4) 6a. Start up a wide flake/crack rising from the ledge. Carry a small rack to supplement the fixed gear.
 
2 Stars
6a
11
Super-doume
1) 6a, 2) 6c, 3) 6a. The centre of the clean wall right above the beach.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c