South Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Early morning sun
40 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Sheltered

The south side of Trow Gill is a very intimidating place - a steep, blank wall guarded by square-cut overlaps above bulging starts. This dark wall receives no sun and is slow to dry out and the routes are often dirty early in the season. Once dry and clean it gives some excellent climbing. The wall is sheltered in light rain and is a welcome refuge from the heat in hot weather. The left-hand side is the most popular section and is more open and dries slightly quicker than the right. The rock on most of the climbs is good and the gear is excellent. There are some traverses that link sections of various routes and are best attempted when familiar with the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mesolithic Geordie Man
The first line on the shady side of Trow Gill. Climb up the cleaned strip of rock to better stuff higher up.
 6a
2
The Grimsby Trowler
Climb Mesolithic Geordie Man to its second bolt and then head up the right-hand line of bolts to a crack.
 6a+
3
Forget the Arete
A short line following three bolts to a lower-off on the bulging buttress. Easily viewed on the approach.
 
Strong
6b
4
Muggling Folk
Another shortish line (12m) of four bolts to a lower-off. Start just to the right of Forget the Arete.
 
Strong
6a+
5
Market Forces
Trend left and enter the small right-facing corner. Climb this then head leftwards to a hanging groove and the wall above.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
6
Open for Business
When clean this is a worthwhile pitch. Follow Market Forces to the top of the right-facing corner. Better holds allow the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
7
Frozen Assets
The extension to Open for Business is a viciously thin problem.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
8
Bush of Ghosts
Start up Market Forces and then move onto the central line. Climb to a lower-off just above the overlap.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
9
High Spirits
A powerful finish up the headwall above Bush of Ghosts.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
10
Brush with a Goat
Good sustained climbing up the blank-looking wall. Start as for Open for Business but trend right to, and through, the overlap....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
11
Choc, Chip & Cookie's Big Breakout
The headwall above Brush with a Goat.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
12
The Road to Iraq and Ruin
A good link-up covering some impressive sections of the crag at a reasonable grade. Climb Brush With a Goat until a flake in...
 
2 Stars
7a+
13
The Wizard's Wynd
A long left-to-right rising girdle of the wall. Prior knowledge of other routes on the wall is very helpful.1) 7b, 25m....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
14
Kangaburger Wall
Start just to the right of Market Forces. Move up to, and through, the overhang before moving rightwards to finish as for...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
15
Trowgerbirge Wall
The former aid line is now an appealing sport climb. Start at the left side of the pillar and follow the bolts right of the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
16
Wetterstein Wyrd
A excellent right-hand direct finish to Trowgerbirge Wall.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
17
Pursuit of Excellence
Start up the pillar with some hard moves just above the overlap, then break left up steep ground.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b+
18
Hardcore Ecstasy
Follow Pursuit of Excellence to above its hard moves, then continue with more of the same. High in the grade.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
19
Diagon Alley
A link-up with good climbing. Climb Pursuit of Excellence to a rest above the lower overhang. Using extended runners follow The...
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
20
Cosmik Debris
A hard pitch. Start just right of the pillar and move over the roof on suspect rock. Sustained, hard climbing leads directly up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7c
21
Where the Time Goes
A left-trending line starting up Petulant Frenzy before making a long move left from a glued-up undercut. Go left again to a...
 
2 Stars
7b+
22
Lonely Traveller
A route of many parts builds to provide an absorbing journey up the walls and overlap between the upper sections of Petulant...
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c
23
Petulant Frenzy
The original line at this end of the wall. A superb pitch through the roof before tackling the shallow groove and overlap.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b+
24
Max
Hard climbing through the roof and up the wall above just right of Petulant Frenzy. Start up the first wall of Petulant Frenzy...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
8a
25
Leap of Faith
The bulge and steep wall above.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c
26
Jump Start
Very tough moves over the low roof are followed immediately by more fingery and sustained climbing on the headwall, to a final...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
8a
27
Route 27
Cross the low roof then head up the grey headwall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For TROW GILL

    Ash Tree Groove
    "Changed from 6b+ 5b ** to 6b+ **, no votes" 27/Mar

    The Great Big Onion
    "Use the belay on the left (hidden from sight)" 15/Oct

    Open for Business
    "This wall is pretty easy to clean from above. Lots of big trees on top to ab fro..." 15/Jun

    Open for Business
    "Cheers both, the move did seem ok in the end but it took a bit of working out an..." 14/Jun

    Open for Business
    "The start once you've got it sussed was fingery but stable last year. I looked a..." 09/Jun

    Open for Business
    "It always did have a bouldery start, Andy. If you are disappointed its short liv..." 06/Jun

    Open for Business
    "Has something come off the start of this? The first few moves felt very fingery ..." 04/Jun

    Bad Day on Black Rock
    "The top is starting to get a bit over grown if you go right. Really needs someon..." 28/Jul

    Clapham in Irons
    "I found this very steep, also a bit run out in places. The move under the roof o..." 12/Jun

    Hardcore Ecstasy
    "One harsh move, followed by crumbly filth. Even with a good brushing I couldn't ..." 29/Apr

    Max
    "harder and more sustained than jump start 8a+. Jump start is fairly easy after ..." 23/Mar

    Black Groove
    "Again - good to clean it but why the bolts?" 12/Aug

    Bandwagon
    "It gets 7c now in the new YMC guide." 20/Sep

    Bandwagon
    "Holds seem to have fallen off making this much harder. Also very dirty." 19/Sep

    Alick
    "good climbing tricky section at 3rd bold once through this jughauling best easie..." 04/Sep

    Clink
    "Thought this was a really good route with an excellent finish. Better that Far ..." 08/Aug

    Bad Day on Black Rock
    "The lower part of this route is utter choss: your belayer should wear a helmet a..." 30/Jun

    The Great Big Onion
    "Easy except for the offwidth crack at the top." 31/May

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