Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 minsWindy
0
The most popular and most accessible section of the cliff has a great set of climbs in a sunny setting and excellent rock. Some of the routes are a bit polished. Many of the pitches need a long rope - always check before setting off. Guidebook page 130.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hermès-toth (P1) | 1 Stars | 5 |
2 |
La ruée vers l'art Use the previous route to reach the left-hand line on the headwall. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
3 |
Hermès-toth The fine central line on the upper shield. | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6c |
4 |
Mon petit coeur (P1) | 1 Stars | 5 |
5 |
Mon petit coeur Photo on page 135. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
6 |
Tchounologue (P1) | 1 Stars | 5 |
7 |
Tchounologue | 2 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
8 |
Priape, dieu des manches The pillar on the right gives an excellent easier pitch. It is best approached by the lower section of any of the routes to the... | 3 Stars | 4+ |
9 |
Le dormeur du val | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
10 |
Ghost angel | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
11 |
Comme un russe At the right-hand end of the lower wall are four short easy routes. | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
12 |
L'arrache coeur 1 | 2 Stars Crimpy | 5 |
13 |
L'arrache coeur 2 | 2 Stars Technical | 5+ |
14 |
L'arrache coeur 3 | 2 Stars | 5 |
15 |
L'arrache coeur 4 Layback the arete. | 2 Stars | 4 |
16 |
La corde au cou | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
17 |
Renaissance Steady climbing to a high crux. | 3 Stars | 5 |
18 |
Face de poulpe | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
19 |
Fine mouche | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6a+ |
20 |
Marco polo Weave up the wall with the grey streak, passing the vegetated slot at two-thirds height. | 3 Stars Technical | 6c |
21 |
Peau de chagrin Start up the previous climb then break out rightwards onto the wall and follow an intricate line up this. | 3 Stars | 6b+ |
22 |
Mourir de rire Another big and devious affair on the right side of the wall. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
23 |
Laisse béton 1) 5+, 2) 5+. The left-hand line follows the slab trending right to a stance below steeper rock. Continue up the buttress and... | 3 Stars | 5+ |
24 |
Sous l'oeil de krom 1) 4+, 2) 5. The bottom pitch up the pleasant slab, the upper continues up the fine groove above. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5 |
25 |
Petites vermines Easy work up the more broken slab. | 2 Stars | 4 |
26 |
Sam is fat The smooth wall up is very technical. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
27 |
Le seigneur du fleuve A superb big pitch soaring up the white wall. | 3 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
28 |
Voyage Another fine (and big) pitch wandering up the right-hand side of the face passing the occasional good breather. | 3 Stars | 6b |
29 |
Le livre de la vie 1) 4, 2) 5. Steady climbing up the slab leads to a stance in the amazing hollow. Move out right and follow the bolts up into a... | 3 Stars | 5 |
30 |
Les larmes d'allah The hanging wall up and right. Rest assured, you will not have to queue! | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
31 |
Papa tango The pleasant left-hand side of the wall. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5 |
32 |
Delph | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
33 |
Traquenard The happy bulge direct. | 3 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
34 |
Super félix (P1) To the lower-off at 15m is a pleasant pitch in a quiet setting. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
35 |
Super félix A bigger pitch up the right-hand side of the face to a high crux. | 3 Stars | 6c+ |