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Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 mins

0


The most popular and most accessible section of the cliff has a great set of climbs in a sunny setting and excellent rock. Some of the routes are a bit polished. Many of the pitches need a long rope - always check before setting off. Guidebook page 130.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hermès-toth (P1)
 
1 Stars
5
2
La ruée vers l'art
Use the previous route to reach the left-hand line on the headwall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
3
Hermès-toth
The fine central line on the upper shield.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
4
Mon petit coeur (P1)
 
1 Stars
5
5
Mon petit coeur
Photo on page 135.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
6
Tchounologue (P1)
 
1 Stars
5
7
Tchounologue
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5+
8
Priape, dieu des manches
The pillar on the right gives an excellent easier pitch. It is best approached by the lower section of any of the routes to the...
 
3 Stars
4+
9
Le dormeur du val
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
10
Ghost angel
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
11
Comme un russe
At the right-hand end of the lower wall are four short easy routes.
 
1 Stars
6b+
12
L'arrache coeur 1
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5
13
L'arrache coeur 2
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
14
L'arrache coeur 3
 
2 Stars
5
15
L'arrache coeur 4
Layback the arete.
 
2 Stars
4
16
La corde au cou
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
17
Renaissance
Steady climbing to a high crux.
 
3 Stars
5
18
Face de poulpe
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
19
Fine mouche
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
20
Marco polo
Weave up the wall with the grey streak, passing the vegetated slot at two-thirds height.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
21
Peau de chagrin
Start up the previous climb then break out rightwards onto the wall and follow an intricate line up this.
 
3 Stars
6b+
22
Mourir de rire
Another big and devious affair on the right side of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
23
Laisse béton
1) 5+, 2) 5+. The left-hand line follows the slab trending right to a stance below steeper rock. Continue up the buttress and...
 
3 Stars
5+
24
Sous l'oeil de krom
1) 4+, 2) 5. The bottom pitch up the pleasant slab, the upper continues up the fine groove above.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
25
Petites vermines
Easy work up the more broken slab.
 
2 Stars
4
26
Sam is fat
The smooth wall up is very technical.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
27
Le seigneur du fleuve
A superb big pitch soaring up the white wall.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
28
Voyage
Another fine (and big) pitch wandering up the right-hand side of the face passing the occasional good breather.
 
3 Stars
6b
29
Le livre de la vie
1) 4, 2) 5. Steady climbing up the slab leads to a stance in the amazing hollow. Move out right and follow the bolts up into a...
 
3 Stars
5
30
Les larmes d'allah
The hanging wall up and right. Rest assured, you will not have to queue!
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
31
Papa tango
The pleasant left-hand side of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
32
Delph
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
33
Traquenard
The happy bulge direct.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a+
34
Super félix (P1)
To the lower-off at 15m is a pleasant pitch in a quiet setting.
 
1 Stars
6c+
35
Super félix
A bigger pitch up the right-hand side of the face to a high crux.
 
3 Stars
6c+