Adjacent Areas
< None | Grand Face - Right >
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside
5 mins0
The show-piece of the crag, the left-hand side has few amenable offerings. The crag is in the sun until mid-afternoon, with the left-hand sections going into the shade first - worth knowing for the really hot days. Much of the rock is steep enough to be more or less permanently dry. If you are unsure which climbs are the 'must-do' classics, check out those with the most chalk on, the angle of the wall means that it rarely if ever gets washed off. Sadly several of the routes have manufactured sections. Guidebook page 172.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Neuromédiation The first decent route on the crag - a great start! Slant right above the vegetation into the groove then climb the left wall.... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
2 |
Les hirondelles sont de retour A good long pitch that starts roadside heads up the groove towards the cave then moves left onto the pillar. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6b+ |
3 |
La salamandre The first pitch just as far as the cave is only 6b and not as good as the 2nd one. If doing it in one pitch take 18 clips. | 2 Stars | 6b+ |
4 |
Un hiver san fin A recent addition past the big orange flake. | 1 Stars | 5 |
5 |
Arielle Another real cracker at an amenable grade passing the right-hand side of the cave at 12m. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
6 |
La poursuite du gri-gri A mega pitch - 38m and 12 clips, make sure your rope is long enough for this one. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
7 |
L'esprit du rat ..... up a drainpipe. The first of the clutch of shorter climbs is the easiest offering hereabouts. | 3 Stars | 6b+ |
8 |
Béatitube Up the left edge of the cave to a hanging flake; power round this. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7a |
9 |
Sweet smoke A pitch through the steepest part of the cave/hollow. | 1 Stars Technical | 8b |
10 |
Are you ready? The (well-chalked) grey streak up the wall above a smaller right-hand cave. Popular despite the grade! | 3 Stars Technical | 8b+ |
11 |
Les frontiers du neant The classic line of big pockets is a bit polished but gives great climbing on a surprising set of holds. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong | 7a |
12 |
Les couleurs du charme Top 50 Branch right above the square pocket to climb the brown wall. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
13 |
Le magicien d'Oz Top 50 At the high bulge go direct or step right and climb the groove with no real change in grade. Photo on page 168. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
14 |
Yellow shark The overhanging arete left of the niche in the upper roofs. | 2 Stars Strong | 7a |
15 |
Autism Cross the roof right of the niche | 2 Stars Fluttery | 7b |
16 |
Entropie | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
17 |
La femme fatale A fierce fingery pitch up the smooth wall to the right. Drilled. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 8b |
18 |
Jazzogène Another tough one, up the wall and on through the bulges above. Drilled and glued, but there you go! | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 7c |
