Grand Face

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
5 mins
Roadside
Sheltered

The show-piece of the crag, the Grand Face has few amenable offerings. The best of the routes are superb though some are a bit over-climbed to be pleasant. The crag gets the sun until mid-afternoon, worth knowing for the really hot days, though the right-hand side keeps it longer. Much of the rock is steep enough to be more or less permanently dry. If you are unsure which climbs are the must-do classics, check out those with the most chalk on, the angle of the wall means that it rarely, if ever, gets washed off. Sadly several of the routes have manufactured sections. Approach - Park under the left-hand section of the face, or if this is full, in the big car park on the other side of the road. A short scramble leads to the base of the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Neuromédiation
The first decent route on the crag - a great start! Slant right above the vegetation into the groove then climb the left wall....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
2
Les hirondelles sont de retour
A good long pitch that starts roadside heads up the groove towards the cave then moves left onto the pillar.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
3
La salamandre
The first pitch just as far as the cave is only 6b and not as good as the 2nd one. If doing it in one pitch take 18 clips.
 
2 Stars
6b+
4
Un hiver san fin
A recent addition past the big orange flake.
 
1 Stars
5a
5
Arielle
Another real cracker at an amenable grade passing the right-hand side of the cave at 12m.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
La poursuite du gri-gri
A mega pitch - 38m and 12 clips, make sure your rope is long enough for this one.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
7
L'esprit du rat
..... up a drainpipe. The first of the clutch of shorter climbs is the easiest offering hereabouts.
 
3 Stars
6b+
8
Béatitube
Up the left edge of the cave to a hanging flake; power round this.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
9
Sweet smoke
A pitch through the steepest part of the cave/hollow.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b
10
Are you ready?
The (well-chalked) grey streak up the wall above a smaller right-hand cave. Popular despite the grade!
 
3 Stars
Technical
8b+
11
Les frontiers du néant
The classic line of big pockets is a bit polished but gives great climbing on a surprising set of holds.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
12
Les couleurs du charme Top 50
Branch right above the square pocket to climb the brown wall.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b+
13
Le magicien d'Oz Top 50
At the high bulge go direct or step right and climb the groove with no real change in grade.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
14
Yellow shark
The overhanging arete left of the niche in the upper roofs.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a
15
Autism
Cross the roof right of the niche
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7b
16
Entropie
 
2 Stars
7a+
17
La femme fatale
A fierce fingery pitch up the smooth wall to the right. Drilled.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8b
18
Jazzogène
Another tough one, up the wall and on through the bulges above. Drilled and glued, but there you go!
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
19
Marabout
The grade is to the 1st lower-off (28m).
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
20
Marabout Extension
The bold and drilled extension joins the next route.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
21
Les sœurs "trou-trou"
Another of the huge, hard and drilled variety. 8a to the 1st lower-off too.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
22
Abolition des privilèges (P1)
The first pitch is a classic with only a short hard section.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
23
Abolition des privilèges Top 50
Both pitches, a classic of the grade. A 3rd direct pitch isn't equipped.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
24
Abolition des privilèges droite
The right-hand variation upper pitch.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
25
La forteresse du vide
Start up Abolition at this grade. It is 8a if you start up Le Diktateur. Another very big pitch - 15 clips.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
26
Le diktateur
Classic! The face to the right of the groove-system. At the tufas move right, then up to a lower-off under the overhangs.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
27
Toréador, prends gard!
The bulges above the stance - hard, often damp and a bit loose!
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
7b
28
La signe de taureau
A classic sustained pitch. The shorter juggy extensions above the roof are also excellent - left 7a, right 7b.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
29
Léna bouddha
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c
30
Léna bouddha Extension
The extension is drilled and often damp.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
31
So What?
The left-hand version starting 2/3 of the way up the 1st pitch.
 
1 Stars
8a
32
Kanao
 
1 Stars
7b
33
Kanao Extension
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
34
Le grand neurone
Step left from the groove and climb the wall left then right (lower-off - 8a to here) before addressing the problem of the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
35
La soif du mal
The wall and bulges above the tip of the flake. A big mother!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
8a
36
Quinoa
 
1 Stars
7c+
37
Tchernobyl
 
1 Stars
7c
38
Tiané mobylette
Fine sustained face climbing leads to an exposed finale.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7c
39
Mercurius
 
3 Stars
7c
40
Corto balèse
Features fierce technical climbing throughout.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
41
Le chmatex
An oddity - a classic red spot in this crucible of soaring grades. The start is a bit crusty but things improve a lot with...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7a
42
Fleur carnivore
Another huge pitch with a distinct crux sequence. Hard for the grade and a bit of a stopper.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
43
Turbulences
Steady climbing leads to a (very) high crux just when you are starting to fade.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
44
La disparition
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
45
Abécédaire
A savage start. Good rests above but the finish packs it in. Harder than Le chmatex?
 
3 Stars
Strong
6c+
46
Habitus
The tough move is (just) above the ledge - care needed.
 
3 Stars
Strong
6b+