Grand Face - Right

Adjacent Areas
< Grand Face - Left  |  Le Muret to Westpoint >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The ranks of routes in the upper '7s' makes this a destination for the hard-core. The best of the routes are superb though some are a bit over-climbed to be pleasant. The crag gets the sun until mid-afternoon, worth knowing for the really hot days, though the right-hand side keeps it longer. Much of the rock is steep enough to be more or less permanently dry.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Marabout
The grade is to the 1st lower-off (28m). The bold extension joins the next route and is 7c+. Drilled.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
2
Les soeurs "trou-trou"
Another of the huge, hard and drilled variety. 8a to the 1st lower-off too.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
3
Abolition des privilèges (P1)
The first pitch is a classic with only a short hard section.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
4
Abolition des privilèges Top 50
Both pitches, a classic of the grade. A 3rd direct pitch isn't equipped. The right-hand variation upper pitch is 7b+.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
5
La forteresse du vide
Start up Abolition at this grade. It is 8a if you start up Le Diktateur. Another very big pitch - 15 clips.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
6
Le diktateur
Classic! The face to the right of the groove-system. At the tufas move right, then up to a lower-off under the overhangs.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
7
Toréador, prends gard!
The bulges above the stance - hard, often damp and a bit loose!
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
7b
8
La signe de taureau
A classic sustained pitch. The shorter juggy extensions above the roof are also excellent - left 7a, right 7b.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
9
Léna bouddha
The extension ups the grade to 7c+. Drilled and often damp.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c
10
Kanao
Again the extension is harder - 7c+. A left-hand version starting 2/3 of the way up the 1st pitch is So What? 8a - about 20...
 
1 Stars
7b
11
Le grand neurone
Step left from the groove and climb the wall left then right (lower-off - 8a to here) before addressing the problem of the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
12
La soif du mal
The wall and bulges above the tip of the flake. A big mother!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
8a
13
Quinoa
 
1 Stars
7c+
14
Tchernobyl
 
1 Stars
7c
15
Tiané mobylette
Fine sustained face climbing leads to an exposed finale.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7c
16
Mercurius
 
3 Stars
7c
17
Corto balèse
Features fierce technical climbing throughout.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
18
Le chmatex
An oddity - a classic red spot in this crucible of soaring grades. The start is a bit crusty but things improve a lot with...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7a
19
Fleur carnivore
Another huge pitch with a distinct crux sequence. Hard for the grade and a bit of a stopper.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
20
Turbulences
Steady climbing leads to a (very) high crux just when you are starting to fade.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
La disparition
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
22
Abécédaire
A savage start. Good rests above but the finish packs it in. Harder than Le chmatex?
 
3 Stars
Strong
6c+
23
Habitus
The tough move is (just) above the ledge - care needed.
 
3 Stars
Strong
6b+