Grand Face - Right

Adjacent Areas
< Grand Face - Left  |  Le Muret to Westpoint >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The ranks of routes in the upper '7s' makes this a destination for the hard-core. The best of the routes are superb though some are a bit over-climbed to be pleasant. The crag gets the sun until mid-afternoon, worth knowing for the really hot days, though the right-hand side keeps it longer. Much of the rock is steep enough to be more or less permanently dry. Guidebook page 174.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Marabout
The grade is to the 1st lower-off (28m). The bold extension joins the next route and is 7c+. Drilled.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
2
Les soeurs "trou-trou"
Another of the huge, hard and drilled variety. 8a to the 1st lower-off too.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
3
Abolition des privilèges (P1)
The first pitch is a classic with only a short hard section.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
4
Abolition des privilèges Top 50
Both pitches, a classic of the grade. A 3rd direct pitch isn't equipped. The right-hand variation upper pitch is 7b+.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
5
La forteresse du vide
Start up Abolition at this grade. It is 8a if you start up Le Diktateur. Another very big pitch - 15 clips.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
6
Le diktateur
Classic! The face to the right of the groove-system. At the tufas move right, then up to a lower-off under the overhangs.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
7
Toréador, prends gard!
The bulges above the stance - hard, often damp and a bit loose!
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
7b
8
La signe de taureau
A classic sustained pitch. The shorter juggy extensions above the roof are also excellent - left 7a, right 7b.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
9
Léna bouddha
The extension ups the grade to 7c+. Drilled and often damp.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c
10
Kanao
Again the extension is harder - 7c+. A left-hand version starting 2/3 of the way up the 1st pitch is So What? 8a - about 20...
 
1 Stars
7b
11
Le grand neurone
Step left from the groove and climb the wall left then right (lower-off - 8a to here) before addressing the problem of the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
12
La soif du mal
The wall and bulges above the tip of the flake. A big mother!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
8a
13
Quinoa
 
1 Stars
7c+
14
Tchernobyl
 
1 Stars
7c
15
Tiané mobylette
Fine sustained face climbing leads to an exposed finale.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7c
16
Mercurius
 
3 Stars
7c
17
Corto balèse
Features fierce technical climbing throughout.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
18
Le chmatex
An oddity - a classic red spot in this crucible of soaring grades. The start is a bit crusty but things improve a lot with...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
7a
19
Fleur carnivore
Another huge pitch with a distinct crux sequence. Hard for the grade and a bit of a stopper.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
20
Turbulences
Steady climbing leads to a (very) high crux just when you are starting to fade.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
La disparition
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
22
Abécédaire
A savage start. Good rests above but the finish packs it in. Harder than Le chmatex?
 
3 Stars
Strong
6c+
23
Habitus
The tough move is (just) above the ledge - care needed.
 
3 Stars
Strong
6b+