Adjacent Areas
< Grand Face - Left | Le Muret to Westpoint >
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
2 mins0
The ranks of routes in the upper '7s' makes this a destination for the hard-core. The best of the routes are superb though some are a bit over-climbed to be pleasant. The crag gets the sun until mid-afternoon, worth knowing for the really hot days, though the right-hand side keeps it longer. Much of the rock is steep enough to be more or less permanently dry. Guidebook page 174.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Marabout The grade is to the 1st lower-off (28m). The bold extension joins the next route and is 7c+. Drilled. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
2 |
Les soeurs "trou-trou" Another of the huge, hard and drilled variety. 8a to the 1st lower-off too. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
3 |
Abolition des privilèges (P1) The first pitch is a classic with only a short hard section. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
4 |
Abolition des privilèges Top 50 Both pitches, a classic of the grade. A 3rd direct pitch isn't equipped. The right-hand variation upper pitch is 7b+. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
5 |
La forteresse du vide Start up Abolition at this grade. It is 8a if you start up Le Diktateur. Another very big pitch - 15 clips. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
6 |
Le diktateur Classic! The face to the right of the groove-system. At the tufas move right, then up to a lower-off under the overhangs. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
7 |
Toréador, prends gard! The bulges above the stance - hard, often damp and a bit loose! | 1 Stars Strong Loose | 7b |
8 |
La signe de taureau A classic sustained pitch. The shorter juggy extensions above the roof are also excellent - left 7a, right 7b. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
9 |
Léna bouddha The extension ups the grade to 7c+. Drilled and often damp. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
10 |
Kanao Again the extension is harder - 7c+. A left-hand version starting 2/3 of the way up the 1st pitch is So What? 8a - about 20... | 1 Stars | 7b |
11 |
Le grand neurone Step left from the groove and climb the wall left then right (lower-off - 8a to here) before addressing the problem of the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
12 |
La soif du mal The wall and bulges above the tip of the flake. A big mother! | 1 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
13 |
Quinoa | 1 Stars | 7c+ |
14 |
Tchernobyl | 1 Stars | 7c |
15 |
Tiané mobylette Fine sustained face climbing leads to an exposed finale. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | 7c |
16 |
Mercurius | 3 Stars | 7c |
17 |
Corto balèse Features fierce technical climbing throughout. | 3 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
18 |
Le chmatex An oddity - a classic red spot in this crucible of soaring grades. The start is a bit crusty but things improve a lot with... | 3 Stars Pumpy Loose | 7a |
19 |
Fleur carnivore Another huge pitch with a distinct crux sequence. Hard for the grade and a bit of a stopper. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b |
20 |
Turbulences Steady climbing leads to a (very) high crux just when you are starting to fade. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
21 |
La disparition | 2 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
22 |
Abécédaire A savage start. Good rests above but the finish packs it in. Harder than Le chmatex? | 3 Stars Strong | 6c+ |
23 |
Habitus The tough move is (just) above the ledge - care needed. | 3 Stars Strong | 6b+ |
