Le Gaga

Adjacent Areas
< Technogène  |  Roadside Buttresses >

Sport
Lots of sun!
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Another fine jutting tower of grey rock with a set of popular orange-grade routes. Down and right, and just above the road, is a buttress cleaved by a tall, smooth groove - Et Paf le Chien. There are several worthwhile climbs hereabouts. Guidebook page 184.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bagarèdes
Start from a ledge on the left and follow the left-hand crack-system, there are plenty of holds to choose from - just choose...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
6a
2
Banlieue
The right-hand crack starts lower down, passes a ledge and finishes right on the crest of the tower. A 60m rope will just do.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6a
3
Comédie d'un jour
Start right by the ivy. Mostly steady climbing with only a couple of tricky pulls on poor pockets.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
6a
4
Golot fou
The bolts are bit spaced early on but the harder moves are higher.
 
3 Stars
5c
5
Haltes passagères
Classic - long and sustained, with tricky moves towards the top.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
6
Tissus de corde
Well-positioned climbing up the right arete of the buttress.
 
3 Stars
5c
7
Pipo solo
1) 4+, 2) 5. A two pitch affair that spirals round behind the buttress to a stance, then continues up the tower above.
 
2 Stars
5a
8
La dulf du nain des falaises
The tricky white crack on the left and easier ground above. The layback block has long gone.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
9
Verglas d'été
The face left of the arete gives some fierce moves.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
10
Le fil d'ariane
Scoot up the cracked arete by moves that are surprisingly tricky.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
11
Indiana jones
A steep slab left of the main groove is another that is a just a bit harder than you might be expecting.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
12
Et paf le chien!
The long smooth groove is tricky. At the bulges, trend left then thug back right along the lip and grasp to the chains -...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
6b+
13
Le gaga
The long right arete gives a decent pitch. The bulges at the start present most of the problems.
 
2 Stars
5c