Adjacent Areas
< Le Gaga | Eastern Buttresses >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
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A selection of caves and smaller walls right by the road and a more extensive and impressive set of routes round to the right where the cliff swings round. Guidebook page 186.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
E'daski The left arete, a tricky start and steep finish. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
2 |
Alexandre du blocos Steep, hard and with spaced bolts. A left-hand variant is RWN, 7b+. | 2 Stars Fluttery | 7c+ |
3 |
Bill boulette | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a |
4 |
My biautiful pioulette Pockets through the bulge lead to the left-trending hanging flake. Climb this to its end, then up the wall. Excellent and a tad... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 7a+ |
5 |
Hermine troutrou Top 50 Start as for the last route, but at the start of the flake pull rightwards onto the smooth, steep face and climb this.... | 3 Stars Strong | 7c |
6 |
Coco bel oeil The leftward exit from the cave, crossing the roof to the groove above and a finish on the left. Steep, powerful and with the... | 2 Stars Strong Loose | 7a+ |
7 |
Power The well-named exit out of the back of the cave - swinging through Bucket City but can you keep pulling? | 3 Stars Strong | 7b+ |
8 |
Miss tintinguette Easier, but no less worthwhile monkeying about over the right-hand side of the roof and up the wall above. | 3 Stars Strong | 7a |
9 |
Les eléments ne fond pas de cadeaeau Another great route. Climb the wall, skirting the right-hand side of the big roof (tackled direct by Ferdando Fait le Rat, 7c),... | 3 Stars | 7b |
10 |
Rage de dents Start as for the previous route, but trend right to pass the bulges and access the base of an angular groove above. Up this to... | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
11 |
Etranger aux vérités premières Trend left up the big pockets to access the grey streak and finish pleasantly up this. Photo on previous page. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
12 |
Ragondin At last something easier. | 1 Stars | 5+ |
13 |
Plume d'aigle A newish route on the left flank of the buttress. | 1 Stars | 6a |
14 |
I had a dream Fingery climbing up the crinkly wall on the left. | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
15 |
Les assassins sont parmi nous Climb through the two niches (high first bolt - but not too hard) and on up the wall. | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
16 |
Le sot périlleux Nice climbing through with a bit of stopper crux. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b |
17 |
Pleine lune The pocketed left-hand side of the cave. | 3 Stars Reachy Strong | 7a+ |
18 |
Défi Exit from the cave to gain and climb the blank groove on the right. Pull right onto the face to finish. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
19 |
Moon safari The lower line around the right-hand rim of the cave. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a+ |
20 |
Métèque et mat A line up the right-hand rib has a hard start. | 2 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
21 |
Luther king A pleasant climb up the left-hand side of the buttress. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
22 |
Retour de manivelle The short and uninspiring central route of the trio. | 5 | |
23 |
Africa queen A bit more like it; a fine route up the right-hand pillar. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
