Sector Paklenika

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill
20 mins
Sheltered

0


The left-most Sector has many fine climbs though a fair percentage of them are in the upper grades. Scattered amongst them are some easier offerings too. This section of the crag faces a bit more west than the rest of the cliff so is good for cooler afternoon and evenings. Guidebook page 198.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Carton-pâte
1) 5+, 2) 6a. The huge, slanting groove on the left in two 25m pitches. Lower back down the line of the route (awkward) or...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
2
Trouver le pas du danseur...
Start up the previous climb, then branch right on to the steep wall. Fine climbing, although some holds are glued.
 
3 Stars
7b
3
Arma Bianca
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
4
Watysit
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a
5
L'Hexomil
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
6
Compte tenu du facteur humane
Sustained climbing to a high crux up the leaning arete.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
7
S'adapter ou disparaître
Branch right from the last climbs to hard and varied terrain.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
8
Le Mox
Another monster stamina pitch up the pale streaked wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
9
Total bricole
Classy and relentless climbing throughout.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
10
Demerde à ou?
Branch right onto the wall for more of the same.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
11
Boucan
The orange wall and bulges above.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6b+
12
L'incertitude demeure
The groove that bounds the wall is tricky and technical.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
13
Comment y lé?
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
14
Paklenika
The next long groove-line is a classic of its genre - get bridging.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
15
Pac-Panik
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
16
L'addition
The huge wide leaning groove is less of a nightmare than it looks.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
6c+
17
Trop facile lo zafer
A short pitch up the groove right of the huge corner.
 
1 Stars
5+
18
La peur du Képi
Upside down work above the lower-off of the previous climb eventually checking-out via L'Addition.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
19
La moucat Top 50
The slabby face, is a bit shrubby but pleasant enough. The lower section is the hardest.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
4+
20
Le mage à dit Top 50
Head uo the groove on the right and exit left round the roof.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
21
Douce France!
A really big pitch up the slabby wall to the right.
 
3 Stars
5+