Adjacent Areas
< Sector Paklenika | Sector Grouille à Ou? >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill
20 mins0
A huge, square mass of the buttress. Most of the routes here only reach half-height - up to the 35m mark. There is a good spread of grades, and, as elsewhere on the cliff, plenty of big pitches. Guidebook page 200.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
J'avais un ami... A hidden gem. | 3 Stars | 6a |
2 |
L'homme pressé The central section will keep you on your toes. | 3 Stars Crimpy | 5+ |
3 |
Magic noire There may be a second pitch trending left the right above the lower-off, grade unknown. | 3 Stars | 6c |
4 |
Soufre de bonheur May have a seasonal bees' nest near the top. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
5 |
Moi vouloir grimper | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
6 |
Mûrir dans Muru | 3 Stars | 6b+ |
7 |
L'estafilade Follows the long crack-system behind the tree - the first route on the cliff - bolted back in 1998. | 3 Stars | 6c+ |
8 |
Le Viagra Not quite as stiff as you might be expecting perhaps? | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
9 |
Yes A grubby flake on the left is the line. | 3+ | |
10 |
Le Moucat a perdu le couteau (P1) | 1 Stars | 4 |
11 |
Le Moucat a perdu le couteau (P2) The continuation up the tricky slanting groove. | 2 Stars | 6c |
12 |
Oté Zoreil? | 1 Stars | 4 |
13 |
Le Kinous de nous | 1 Stars | 4 |
14 |
Le bonheure est aux Marinouns | 1 Stars | 4+ |
15 |
Un point de vie (P1) Top 50 Keep just left of the groove for the best climbing. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 4+ |
16 |
Un point de vie The continuation up the long groove splitting the centre of the buttress - 50m from the ground to the lower-off. A third pitch... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5 |
17 |
Abraracourcix A fine, long pitch with a high crux. Photo on page 207. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
18 |
Mikulas (P1) A tricky start and soon easing. | 1 Stars | 4+ |
19 |
Mikulas The fine continuation with hard moves at mid-height. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6c+ |
20 |
Gibbon (P1) The starting bulge is beefy, then things ease. | 1 Stars Strong | 5 |
21 |
Gibbon And the same could be said of the second pitch. | 2 Stars Strong | 6c |
22 |
Snake (P1) A pleasant slabby pitch, with a delicate move to the belay. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 5 |
23 |
Snake Much sterner stuff on the smooth white wall above. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b |
24 |
Mulot fâché A huge pitch up the right-hand edge of the buttress starts round to the right. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a |