Adjacent Areas
< Sector Grouille à Ou? | Sector Ti Paille >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill
15 mins0
The most accessible and popular section of the cliff with a fine array of big pitches and a section of short multi-pitch routes too. The crag is sunny and sheltered from northerly winds, a good winter venue. Guidebook page 204.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Oriane The first route right of the shrubby buttress gives a tricky and sustained pitch where is it is best to keep moving! | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6a |
2 |
Slim-fast The extension up the slabs, tube and cracks is a great pitch too. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
3 |
Carte grise 1) 5+, 2) 5. A tricky little pitch with a stiff bulge forming the crux leads to a small stance. Move right to a groove, tricky... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
4 |
L'échelle au Pépé The huge right-facing flake system provides an impressive pitch at the grade. 13 clips. | 3 Stars | 5 |
5 |
Lumière de Noêl 1) 5+, 2) 6a+, 3) 5. A long classic that tackles the slab and long sinuous groove in three enjoyable pitches. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
6 |
Code Secret (P1) The first pitch is a cracker, sustained and steep. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
7 |
Code Secret The second is also excellent and quite a bit harder. To do it in one you will need a l-o-n-g rope (80m min) and 15 clips. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
8 |
Erection totale One of the best here, long and sustained (sounds familiar). | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
Solstice (P1) Spaced gear on this one, take care. | 2 Stars Fluttery | 6a+ |
10 |
Solstice The upper pitch is more like it! | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
11 |
Dernière séance | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6b |
12 |
Rusalka (P1) A tricky warm up for what is above maybe. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
13 |
Rusalka Great, sustained climbing on lovely rock but the 'stopper' crux move is a bit of a spoiler. | 3 Stars | 7a+ |
14 |
L'hôtel des rongeurs (P1) The slanting groove leads in the left-hand of the caves. | 3 Stars | 5+ |
15 |
L'hôtel des rongeurs Pull out of the apex of the cave and climb the wall. | 3 Stars Strong Crimpy | 6b+ |
16 |
Sourire de chauve-souris (P1) The right-hand cave is gained by a groove and tricky moves left. Bridge up inside to find the belay hidden on the right. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
17 |
Sourire de chauve-souris Step out onto the wall and climb this. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
18 |
Roi de galettes 1) 6a, 2) 5+. A two pitch outing up the tall pillar. | 3 Stars | 6a |
19 |
Kali mera 1) 5+, 2) 5+. The last/first route on this section of the cliff. The lower pitch is varied and interesting, the upper one less... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |