Heure Zéro and Golem

Adjacent Areas
< Frimes et Chatiments  |  La Fête des Nerfs >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 mins
Abseil
Sheltered

0


Another wide section of cliff with a huge array of routes - there are over 70 documented climbs on the section of rock, from teeny stuff under the rim to climbs that run the full height of the wall. Some are fully bolted, others require a huge rack, some are all free and some require a lot of aid. Consult the local guide for full details. Here is a small collection of the most popular climbs. Guidebook page 230.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Liqueur de Coco
A magnificent 45m pitch on an atmospheric and shady wall. The 2 distinct cruxes demand strong fingers and are certainly much...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
2
Heure zéro
1) 6b, 2) 6b+, 3) 6c+. A shady (pm) side-wall - make sure you choose the correct line! Approach down the line. A low-angled...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
3
Echo logique
1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6a. Start as for Heure Zéro, but continue up the corner-crack after the steepening to belay at the large...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
4
Séance tenante
The steep sustained tufa in the side wall - approached by abseil.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
5
Chrysalis
1) 7a, 2) 7b+, 3) 6c, 4) 6c+. This old classic, first free-climbed by Patrick Edlinger in 1982 has been re equipped. The second...
 
3 Stars
7b+
6
Durandal
1) 6c, 2) 6c, 3) 5+, 4) 6a. A long one - approach by abseil down the route then head back to the rim in four long and sustained...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
7
Sommeil paradoxal
1) 6c, 2) 4, 3) 6c, 4) 6a+, 5) 5. The first of two routes that weave up this area of high quality rock.
 
2 Stars
6c
8
Golem
1) 7a, 2) 6a+, 3) 4, 4) 6c+, 5) 6b, 6) 6a. The original classic of the area and the more popular of this pair of climbs gives...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a