Adjacent Areas
< La Fête des Nerfs | Le Belvédère de la Carelle >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 minsAbseil
Windy
0
A great selection of longer multi-pitch classics around half a dozen pitches long and a set of harder single-pitch climbs on the upper walls. Guidebook page 234.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Saute d'homme 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 4+. The long corner-system feels like a trad climb with bolts. It has a less exposed feel about it than... | 2 Stars Graunchy | 6a |
2 |
Les filles sales du metier 1) 6a, 2) 6b, 3) 6a+, 4) 6b. Very sustained and hard for the grade. Start as for Saut d'Homme and then follow the line of the... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
3 |
Zizagutti 1) 7b, 2) 6b, 3) 6b, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b+. You need to be confident you can get back up the lowest pitch before you abseil down it! | 2 Stars Technical | 7b |
4 |
Rêve de fer 1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6b, 4) 6b+. A fine sustained climbs starting from one of the gorge's more exposed positions. | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6b+ |
5 |
Alerte au gaz 1) 6c+, 2) 7a+, 3) 6c. A forgotten gem! Hidden from view in between Rêve de Fer and L'Ange en Decomposition. Exposed and... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
6 |
L'ange en decomposition 1) 6c, 2) 7a, 3) 6a+. Thrilling and exposed climbing on the gently overhanging pillar. A legendary route giving awesome... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
7 |
Fenrir 1) 7a+, 2) 6a & A1, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 6a. The exit from the cave on the second pitch can be done free at 7c+... | 3 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
8 |
Rivière d'argent 1) 6b+, 2) 6a, 3) 6b+, 4) 6a. A good and well-bolted introduction to this section of the cliff. | 3 Stars | 6b+ |
9 |
Pain et chocolate 1) 6b+, 2) 5+. A shorter offering (45m). | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
10 |
Desire du matin 1) 7a+, 2) 6a+. Despite good rock and protection this little-climbed route has become rather grassy and vegetated. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
11 |
Salut des copins 1) 6c, 2) 6a, 3) 6c. The short middle pitch can be linked with either of the others. Chains mark the top of the route. | 2 Stars | 6c |
12 |
La vache qui tache | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
13 |
Percèides There is an optional stance and tiny top pitch at 5+. | 2 Stars | 6b+ |
14 |
Popa Said | 1 Stars | 6a |
15 |
Troisième ciel The first route here and classic of the area. Normally done in one huge pitch. There is a stance at 30m and 5+ climbing above... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
16 |
L'âne rouge | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
17 |
L'incal | 2 Stars | 7a |
18 |
Le grand nez qui boite | 2 Stars | 6c |
19 |
L'heure des mamans A harder direct start to the previous climb. Runout on rather old bolts. | 2 Stars Fluttery | 7a+ |
20 |
Polpot 1) 7c+, 2) 6c. Another long one with fierce run-out climbing. Famously onsighted by the young Jerry Moffatt during his '84... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 7c |
21 |
La descente au Barbu Another one with great but run-out climbing. | 3 Stars Fluttery | 7c+ |
22 |
L'Ïil du tigre Can be split into two short pitches 7a+, 6c+. | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
23 |
Corbeautage 1) 6b+, 2) 5+. The pink groove leads to a stance and a finish up classic Verdon greyness. | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
24 |
Les deux doigts dans le nez 1) 6a+, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6a+. Approach from the base of Fenrir along fixed ropes to a line of new golden bolts that... | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
25 |
Douk Douk 1) 7a+, 2) 6a. The left-hand side of the jutting grey facet. The long first pitch is superb and very, very runout | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 7a+ |
26 |
Ticket pour un taquet A hard, direct start to the next climb. Runout - just for a change. | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | 7b+ |
27 |
L'oiseau de feu 1) 6c, 2) 6a+. Two pitches up the right edge of the wall. | 3 Stars Fluttery | 6c |
28 |
Les deux pieds dans la pas 1) 6c, 2) 6c+, 3) 7a+, 4) 7a+, 5) 6c. A fine, sustained trip up the big rounded buttress that forms the right-hand bounding... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
