Rivière d'Argent

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 mins
Abseil

0


A great selection of longer multi-pitch classics around half a dozen pitches long and a set of harder single-pitch climbs on the upper walls. Guidebook page 234.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Saute d'homme Top 50
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 4+. The long corner-system feels like a trad climb with bolts. It has a less exposed feel about it than...
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
6a
2
Les filles sales du metier
1) 6a, 2) 6b, 3) 6a+, 4) 6b. Very sustained and hard for the grade. Start as for Saut d'Homme and then follow the line of the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
3
Zizagutti
1) 7b, 2) 6b, 3) 6b, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b+. You need to be confident you can get back up the lowest pitch before you abseil down it!
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
4
Rêve de fer Top 50
1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6b, 4) 6b+. A fine sustained climbs starting from one of the gorge's more exposed positions.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b+
5
Alerte au gaz Top 50
1) 6c+, 2) 7a+, 3) 6c. A forgotten gem! Hidden from view in between Rêve de Fer and L'Ange en Decomposition. Exposed and...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
6
L'ange en decomposition
1) 6c, 2) 7a, 3) 6a+. Thrilling and exposed climbing on the gently overhanging pillar. A legendary route giving awesome...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
7
Fenrir
1) 7a+, 2) 6a & A1, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 6a. The exit from the cave on the second pitch can be done free at 7c+...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
8
Rivière d'argent Top 50
1) 6b+, 2) 6a, 3) 6b+, 4) 6a. A good and well-bolted introduction to this section of the cliff.
 
3 Stars
6b+
9
Pain et chocolate
1) 6b+, 2) 5+. A shorter offering (45m).
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
10
Desire du matin
1) 7a+, 2) 6a+. Despite good rock and protection this little-climbed route has become rather grassy and vegetated.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
11
Salut des copins
1) 6c, 2) 6a, 3) 6c. The short middle pitch can be linked with either of the others. Chains mark the top of the route.
 
2 Stars
6c
12
La vache qui tache
 
1 Stars
6a+
13
Percèides
There is an optional stance and tiny top pitch at 5+.
 
2 Stars
6b+
14
Popa Said
 
1 Stars
6a
15
Troisième ciel
The first route here and classic of the area. Normally done in one huge pitch. There is a stance at 30m and 5+ climbing above...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
16
L'âne rouge Top 50
 
2 Stars
7a+
17
L'incal
 
2 Stars
7a
18
Le grand nez qui boite
 
2 Stars
6c
19
L'heure des mamans
A harder direct start to the previous climb. Runout on rather old bolts.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7a+
20
Polpot
1) 7c+, 2) 6c. Another long one with fierce run-out climbing. Famously onsighted by the young Jerry Moffatt during his '84...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7c
21
La descente au Barbu
Another one with great but run-out climbing.
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
7c+
22
L'Ïil du tigre
Can be split into two short pitches 7a+, 6c+.
 
2 Stars
7a+
23
Corbeautage
1) 6b+, 2) 5+. The pink groove leads to a stance and a finish up classic Verdon greyness.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
24
Les deux doigts dans le nez
1) 6a+, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6a+. Approach from the base of Fenrir along fixed ropes to a line of new golden bolts that...
 
2 Stars
6a+
25
Douk Douk
1) 7a+, 2) 6a. The left-hand side of the jutting grey facet. The long first pitch is superb and very, very runout
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a+
26
Ticket pour un taquet
A hard, direct start to the next climb. Runout - just for a change.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7b+
27
L'oiseau de feu
1) 6c, 2) 6a+. Two pitches up the right edge of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
6c
28
Les deux pieds dans la pas
1) 6c, 2) 6c+, 3) 7a+, 4) 7a+, 5) 6c. A fine, sustained trip up the big rounded buttress that forms the right-hand bounding...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+