Le Belvédère de la Carelle

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Sport
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Roadside
Abseil

Probably the most popular section of the whole cliff for the simple reason it is so accessible. The climbing isn't the best around, and many of the routes are quite polished, but it is possible to sample the 'big-air' atmosphere without getting too committed. The longer routes described here offer a more full-on Gorge experience.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Love Me
1) 6c, 2) 6b+. Start up the slabby wall under the long groove.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c
2
Six fois zette
The bulge at the start is a tricky monkey. Luckily it isn't (quite) the easiest way out!
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
3
Karin's Line
Another one that needs some stiff pulls early on. This is the final pitch of an eleven pitch outing (up to 7b+) from the cliff...
 
1 Stars
Strong
6a
4
Les bidochon en vacances
Keep just left of a shrubby groove line.
 
2 Stars
6c
5
Rop 'n' Roll
The left-hand line from the higher ledge system.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5c
6
Tire-flemme
Start behind the trees and keep right of the shrubbery.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
7
En rase bien les poireaux
 
1 Stars
5c
8
Fini au pipi
 
1 Stars
5c
9
Sérieux s'abstenir
 
1 Stars
5c
10
Deleruim tres mince
1) 6b+, 2) 6c, 3) 7a, 4) 5+, 5) 6a. Start at a niche to the left of the fourth Ticket Danger abseil and head out left through...
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
11
No Name
 
Technical
6b
12
Click-clack
 
1 Stars
5c
13
Ticket Danger
1) 6c, 2) 6c, 3) 6a, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 6a+. A long trip from the terrace at the foot of the wall. The lowest pitch needs a...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
6c
14
La baraka
1) 6b, 2) 6c, 3) 6a, 4) 6c+, 5) 6b+ . A right-hand version of the previous climb joins it for the central section then forges...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
15
Polpett
Loop right to avoid the vicious original (7a) starts.
 
2 Stars
6b+
16
Eclopante (P10)
The centre of the grey wall trending left towards the top. Yes, there are 9 pitches below - 6b max with a couple of aid...
 
2 Stars
6a
17
Cercopithèque
1) 6c+, 2) 6b+. The right-hand side of the wall, starting just left of the prominent white streak.
 
2 Stars
6c+
18
Scoumoune
Start as for La Baraka but break right onto the wall after 7m.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
19
Papy on Sight
A classic from the dawn of sport climbing - courtesy of Patrick Edlinger who bolted it as an open project in 1983. Sadly this...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7c+
20
Je suis une légende
 
2 Stars
7a
21
Mami nova
The left-most line on the face.
 
1 Stars
5c
22
Face au public
1) 5+, 2) 5+. One long or two short abseils get you to the wildly-positioned start. The initial moves of the second pitch are...
 
2 Stars
5c
23
Opera verticouenne
Start from the lowest belay on the slab and pass the left-hand edge of the large white scar. The bulge is well supplied with...
 
2 Stars
5c
24
Tarpet farceur
From the same belay, pass the right-hand side of the white scar. Steady climbing with only a couple of trickier moves.
 
2 Stars
5c
25
A moi les vivantes
Trend right then climb the face - spaced bolts!
 
Fluttery
5c
26
Tarsinge l'homme zan
The right-hand line here starts from a tiny stance.
 5c
27
Wall of Woodoo
1) 8a+, 2) 6b+. Start from a hanging stance on the lip of the void.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
8a+
28
Abnegation
Another desperate trip back from the edge. Finish up the next route.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7c+
29
Biscotte margarine
The continuation of Abnegation is a classic in its own right. A route with reverse exposure - the belay is the worst and you...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6b+
30
Wide is Love
Gorge ambience without too much of the commitment - lashings of exposure and sadly plenty of polish too.
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
6a
31
Salta minchia!
Another pitch that starts in the middle of nowhere!
 
2 Stars
6c+
32
Les rideaux de Gwendal Top 50
1) 6c, 2) 6b+, 3) 7b+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6c, 6) 6b+, 7) 6c+, 8) 6a, 9) 5. Nine sumptuous pitches up one of the most beautiful zones of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
33
Le pornographe ou le phonographe
1) 8a, 2) 7c, 3) 7b+. An awesome new route, started 2009 and finished 2010. It still awaiting a complete ascent. Finish up...
 
3 Stars
8a
34
Haute tension
1) 7c, 2) 6a. Parallels the upper section of Pichenibule with a fine and taxing pitch on fantastic rock. The top pitch is Wide...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
35
Le genou de Claire
1) 7b+, 2) 7c+. Great climbing and astounding situations, crossing Pichenibule. Re-equipped.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
36
Pichenibule Top 50
1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 5+, 7) 6a+, 8) 6c+, 9) 5+, 10) A0/6a (7c), 11) 6a. Perhaps the archetypical Verdon...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6c+
37
Ctuluh
1) 6c+, 2) 6a. More high and wild drama on this magnificent shield of rock starting from the stance above Pichenibule's 6c+...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6c+
38
Bête à sexe
 
1 Stars
5c
39
Les grimpeurs se cachent pour vomir
1) 7c, 2) 5, 3) 5. A desperate face pitch leads to easy ground.
 
2 Stars
7c
40
Appelez-moi Guidos
1) 6b, 3) 5. A lower 7b+ pitch up the smooth wall below, which is shown in some books, doesn't exist!
 
2 Stars
6b
41
Prises uniques
1) 6B, 2) 7a+, 3) 6b, 4) 5+. A rather more balanced route though it does feature some classic Verdon blankness on the second...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
42
Solide au bidet
1) 6b+, 2) 5c. A shorter offering with a pair of pitches up the high wall above the Pichenibule traverse starting to the left...
 
2 Stars
6b+
43
Agorgeamocles
1) 6a, 2) 6b, 3) 6c+, 4) 6c, 5) 5+. A fine longer route following a bit more of a line than most on this wall, linking cracks...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+
44
Trous secs
1) 6a, 2) 6c, 3) 6b, 4) 6b, 5) 6a. The right-hand edge of the wall via a series of shorter and slightly devious pitches.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+