Stanage End

Trad
Early morning sun
25 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine secluded pair of slabs has some good but poorly protected lower-grade routes. The area is best visited late on summer evenings when it gets the sun - it tends to be VERY green in winter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Green Party
Across the gully, this is the oft-luminous slab on the left.
 VS
2
The Rack
The wide green crack in the groove on the far left.
1 user comment
 D
3
Another Turn
Delicate and unprotected up the central section. The steeper upper part is easier and safer.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
4
Steamin'
Start just right of the arete and climb delicately, passing the right-hand edge of a thin overlap. From the ledge, climb a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
5
The Pinion
Begin as for Steamin' and but trend rightwards to a ledge - the Corbel. Move right then up to the break, then right and up to...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
End of the Line
Overlooked but pleasant enough. Climb straight up the slab to a tiny ramp and finger traverse up this to finish.
 
1 Stars
HS
7
The Ariel
Start just left of the overhang and trend diagonally leftwards to join The Pinion on the Corbel. Climb to the break and then...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
8
The Green Streak
Climb the slab left of the overhang with good delicate moves on spaced pockets. There is more gear than appears from below.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
9
Slight Second
An eliminate up the slab just left of Incursion.
 E1
10
Incursion
Climb The Green Streak to a delicate traverse out right onto the hanging slab. The crux follows - a low cam in a pocket may...
15 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
11
That Floating Fatman
Another eliminate following Incursion but stepping right and squeezing in a line, avoiding High Flier further right. The direct...
 
Technical
E1
12
Incursion Direct
The centre of the overhang is crossed rightwards to pockets before joining the original. Not helped by the perennial puddle.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A
13
Low Rider
Start on the arete below the roof and traverse the lip before moving up to a jug to finish. Linking this into Chip Shop Brawl...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Bumstart
Strong
f7C+
14
High Flyer
From a boulder under the right arete of the slab, swing left to a good hold, pull around and follow the right-hand edge of the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4
15
Chip Shop Brawl
From the tip of the block leap on to the hanging arete and power up it. Short-lived but tough, it may leave you a bit battered.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
f7A+
16
Caliban's Cave
The dark chimney gives awkward back-and-footing to a ledge on the left. Tricky moves are needed to pass the roof. Often green.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS
17
The Tempest
Right of the chimney, climb to a thin pocket (green) then make harder moves up and right. Continue by pleasant climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
18
Prospero's Climb
Climb the centre of the slab to a ledge, then move left to reach and climb the prominent and mild layback flake.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
19
Miranda's Variation
An oddity that moves right out of Prospero's Climb, makes a tricky step up then traverses back left again to finish.
 
1 Stars
S
20
The Crab Crawl
Start under the edge an overlap at 3m. Climb past the overlap then continue up the slab in a direct line to a tricky finale.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
S
21
Crab Crawl Arete
Start at the right edge of the slab and follow the arete throughout by lovely balancy (and slightly reachy) climbing.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS
22
The Vice
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E1
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Warm September
    "Changed from HVS 5a to VS 4c, 50% of 2 votes for VS" 18/Jun

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

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