Stanage End

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
25 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine secluded pair of slabs has some good but poorly protected lower-grade routes. The area is best visited late on summer evenings when it gets the sun - it tends to be VERY green in winter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Green Party
Across the gully, this is the oft-luminous slab on the left.
 VS
2
The Rack
The wide green crack in the groove on the far left.
1 user comment
 Diff
3
Another Turn
Delicate and unprotected up the central section. The steeper upper part is easier and safer.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
4
Steamin'
Start just right of the arete and climb delicately, passing the right-hand edge of a thin overlap. From the ledge, climb a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
5
The Pinion
Begin as for Steamin' and but trend rightwards to a ledge - the Corbel. Move right then up to the break, then right and up to...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
End of the Line
Overlooked but pleasant enough. Climb straight up the slab to a tiny ramp and finger traverse up this to finish.
 
1 Stars
HS
7
The Ariel
Start just left of the overhang and trend diagonally leftwards to join The Pinion on the Corbel. Climb to the break and then...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
8
The Green Streak
Climb the slab left of the overhang with good delicate moves on spaced pockets. There is more gear than appears from below.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
9
Slight Second
An eliminate up the slab just left of Incursion.
 E1
10
Incursion
Climb The Green Streak to a delicate traverse out right onto the hanging slab. The crux follows - a low cam in a pocket may...
15 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
11
That Floating Fatman
Another eliminate following Incursion but stepping right and squeezing in a line, avoiding High Flier further right. The direct...
 
Technical
E1
12
High Flyer
From a boulder under the right arete of the slab, swing left to a good hold, pull around and follow the right-hand edge of the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4
13
Caliban's Cave
The dark chimney gives awkward back-and-footing to a ledge on the left. Tricky moves are needed to pass the roof. Often green.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS
14
The Tempest
Right of the chimney, climb to a thin pocket (green) then make harder moves up and right. Continue by pleasant climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
15
Prospero's Climb
Climb the centre of the slab to a ledge, then move left to reach and climb the prominent and mild layback flake.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
16
Miranda's Variation
An oddity that moves right out of Prospero's Climb, makes a tricky step up then traverses back left again to finish.
 
1 Stars
S
17
The Crab Crawl
Start under the edge an overlap at 3m. Climb past the overlap then continue up the slab in a direct line to a tricky finale.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
S
18
Crab Crawl Arete
Start at the right edge of the slab and follow the arete throughout by lovely balancy (and slightly reachy) climbing.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS
19
The Vice
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E1
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Mirror Hopping Days
    "Just done a direct start (4th May 2016) up the leaning tiered slab, 38 years aft..." 05/May

    Flesh and Blood
    "It has a tough finish too..." 21/Jul

    Where did my Tan Go?
    "The natural line is start on the arete, move left at the break to climb the wall..." 17/Jul

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Quiver
    "Microscopic crimps lead to a sloping finish. Rather difficult." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

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