Adjacent Areas
< Gully Wall | Great Wall >
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
10 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
Restricted Access
No climbing 1 March to 30 June
The section of cliff above the approach path is composed of immaculate Limestone. There are some excellent trad and sport routes on this section of crag. Guidebook page 363.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Yashmak 13m. A poor route. | Technical Crimpy | 6c |
2 |
The Heinous Penis 13m. In reality its actually quite small but surprisingly pleasurable. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6c |
3 |
Starshine 17m. Climb the shallow groove and vegetated line above. Poor. | Pumpy Loose | E1 5b |
4 |
Interstellar Overdrive Top 50 22m. This popular sport route features a fine technical upper corner/groove and a tricky and slightly polished start. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
5 |
Jelly Head 21m. A worthwhile alternative finish to Interstellar Overdrive up the clean wall left of Interstellar’s upper corner/groove. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
6 |
Sun God 22m. A once-good route which is now over-grown. Follow the crack via some dense vegetation to the dead tree. Belay possible.... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | HVS 5b |
7 |
Cement Head Top 50 23m. Well-positioned and difficult moves on fine rock. The route sneaks onto the wall from the ledge above the second bolt on... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
8 |
Zantom Phone Top 50 22m. This beautiful face will defeat all but the very strong-fingered. Climb direct with out deviation into the corner of Sun... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c+ |
9 |
Phantom Zone Top 50 14m. A tough proposition at the grade taking in some brilliant moves on perfect rock. There is a lower-off at the 6th bolt but... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
10 |
Stan Pulsar Top 50 21m. An excellent line up this beautiful buttress. The start is fierce and the finish bold. Follow Phantom Zone to the good... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
11 |
Surfing with the Alien 13m. A tight eliminate which is very close to its neighbours. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8a |
12 |
Bleep and Booster Top 50 21m. A great pitch on good rock. Make few moves up Moonchild before stretching left to some sharp holds. Above, sustained and... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7a |
13 |
Moonchild Top 50 17m. A fine and testing pitch following the line of steep grooves and overlaps just right of the base of the buttress. The 2... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
14 |
War of the Worlds 23m. A good but wandering route which seeks out some tricky climbing not always next to gear. Follow Moonchild to the site of... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
15 |
The Moon Loon Connection 24m. A tremendous and demanding link-up of the initial section of Moonchild with the top pitch of Lunatic (see next page for... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
16 |
Dune A long and interesting expedition taking in some of the better easier climbing on the Moonchild Buttress. Run-out in places.... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
17 |
62 West Wallaby Street 22m. Pressing moves in the first 10m lead to a junction with War Hero. Follow this to the top. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
18 |
War Hero Top 50 21m. A fine piece of climbing. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
19 |
Lunatic Top 50 A good upper pitch.1) 5c, 15m. Follow the the slim groove to where it steepens at a flake crack follow this steeply to a... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
20 |
Tricky Pricky Ears Top 50 23m. A good route. Follow Lunatic up the initial groove and pull straight up the steep wall past a bolt to rejoin Lunatic. Move... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
21 |
Darth Vadar 23m. This impressive pitch has a serious feel to it, not least because of a very poor bolt below its upper section. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6a |
22 |
Maboulisme Merveilleux 16m. An impressive pitch which is very slow to dry. Start by scrambling up the vegetated gully for 10m. Tackle very steep... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7c |
