Moonchild Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Gully Wall  |  Great Wall >

Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
10 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access

No climbing 1 March to 30 June


The section of cliff above the approach path is composed of immaculate Limestone. There are some excellent trad and sport routes on this section of crag. Guidebook page 363.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Yashmak
13m. A poor route.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c
2
The Heinous Penis
13m. In reality its actually quite small but surprisingly pleasurable.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
Starshine
17m. Climb the shallow groove and vegetated line above. Poor.
 
Pumpy
Loose
E1 5b
4
Interstellar Overdrive Top 50
22m. This popular sport route features a fine technical upper corner/groove and a tricky and slightly polished start.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
5
Jelly Head
21m. A worthwhile alternative finish to Interstellar Overdrive up the clean wall left of Interstellarís upper corner/groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
6
Sun God
22m. A once-good route which is now over-grown. Follow the crack via some dense vegetation to the dead tree. Belay possible....
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS 5b
7
Cement Head Top 50
23m. Well-positioned and difficult moves on fine rock. The route sneaks onto the wall from the ledge above the second bolt on...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
8
Zantom Phone Top 50
22m. This beautiful face will defeat all but the very strong-fingered. Climb direct with out deviation into the corner of Sun...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
9
Phantom Zone Top 50
14m. A tough proposition at the grade taking in some brilliant moves on perfect rock. There is a lower-off at the 6th bolt but...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
10
Stan Pulsar Top 50
21m. An excellent line up this beautiful buttress. The start is fierce and the finish bold. Follow Phantom Zone to the good...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
11
Surfing with the Alien
13m. A tight eliminate which is very close to its neighbours.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
12
Bleep and Booster Top 50
21m. A great pitch on good rock. Make few moves up Moonchild before stretching left to some sharp holds. Above, sustained and...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
13
Moonchild Top 50
17m. A fine and testing pitch following the line of steep grooves and overlaps just right of the base of the buttress. The 2...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
14
War of the Worlds
23m. A good but wandering route which seeks out some tricky climbing not always next to gear. Follow Moonchild to the site of...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
15
The Moon Loon Connection
24m. A tremendous and demanding link-up of the initial section of Moonchild with the top pitch of Lunatic (see next page for...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
16
Dune
A long and interesting expedition taking in some of the better easier climbing on the Moonchild Buttress. Run-out in places....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
17
62 West Wallaby Street
22m. Pressing moves in the first 10m lead to a junction with War Hero. Follow this to the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
18
War Hero Top 50
21m. A fine piece of climbing.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
19
Lunatic Top 50
A good upper pitch.1) 5c, 15m. Follow the the slim groove to where it steepens at a flake crack follow this steeply to a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
20
Tricky Pricky Ears
23m. A good route. Follow Lunatic up the initial groove and pull straight up the steep wall past a bolt to rejoin Lunatic. Move...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
21
Darth Vadar
23m. This impressive pitch has a serious feel to it, not least because of a very poor bolt below its upper section.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
22
Maboulisme Merveilleux
16m. An impressive pitch which is very slow to dry. Start by scrambling up the vegetated gully for 10m. Tackle very steep...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL HEAD SCAR

    62 West Wallaby Street
    "Better bolts, tree branch gone..still tough!" 21/Sep

    Perverse Pepere
    "A very good route, perfect rock, interesting climbing , nicely bolted and worth ..." 23/Aug top50

    Reefer Madness
    "more of a micro turd than a gem. not a warm up and not very pleasant." 28/Jun

    Bleep and Booster
    "There was a new direct finish done a while ago, makes much more sense and stripp..." 23/Jul top50

    Stretchy Perineum
    "Nice route,bit of a ramble after the first half but very enjoyable. Hard 7b+" 13/Jul top50

    Zantom Phone
    "A great wall climb if slightly spoiled by the line forcing left of finger jugs o..." 24/Jun top50

    The Route of All Evil
    "I found the line of this route rather confusing. I thought it went up the groove..." 13/Jun top50

    More Games
    "We thought this route was 7b+. Ian & Rob" 12/Jun

    The Route of All Evil
    "Climbed this with the middle section of Mid Air Collision which is a superb 7a+ ..." 08/Jun top50

    Tricky Pricky Ears
    "Excellent climbing in some great positions on very good rock. Spoilt slightly by..." 28/May

    Gilbert Cardigan
    "7a seems fair" 18/May

    The Route of All Evil
    "This route is now fully bolted. We need to take an old one out from the top. Ian..." 19/Mar top50

    Tufa King Hard
    "Rather appealing route although the clipping finish is all a bit Euro-sport. Not..." 23/Oct

    Stan Pulsar
    "Quality route - mid 7b plus with some hard moves pulling into the groove. wouldn..." 01/Jun top50

    Stretchy Perineum
    "This is now a great route when combined with Perverse Pepere. The crux bulge is ..." 30/Apr top50

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