Moonchild Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Gully Wall  |  Great Wall >

Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access

A brilliant section of the crag that rises directly above where the approach path meets the cliff. The left-hand section of the cliff presents an immaculate face of white and grey limestone that is climbed by a number of stunning routes. The base of the buttress can seep for a while after prolonged rainfall. There is a possibility of climbing in the rain on the steeper lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Yashmak
A poor route on the far left of the buttress.
 
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
6c
2
The Heinous Penis
It's actually quite small but surprisingly pleasurable.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
Starshine
Climb the shallow groove and vegetated line above.
 
Pumpy
Loose
E1 5b
4
Interstellar Overdrive Top 50
This popular sport route features a fine technical upper corner/groove and a tricky and slightly polished start.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
5
Jelly Head
A worthwhile alternative finish to Interstellar Overdrive up the clean wall left of Interstellar Overdrive's upper...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
6
Cement Head
Well-positioned and difficult moves on fine rock. The route sneaks onto the wall from the ledge on Interstellar Overdrive via...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
Sun God
Follow the hard crack to the dead tree and then hack-on up another steep crack and short walls to a high lower-off.
 
Strong
Pumpy
6a
8
Combat Plumber
Climb Sun God and then Cement Head to its juggy flakes. Move up right to a good pocket under the overlap and then stride right...
 
2 Stars
7a
9
Zantom Phone
This beautiful face climb will defeat all but the very strong-fingered. Climb direct - without deviating into the corner of Sun...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
10
Phantom Zone Top 50
A stunning line with brilliant moves on perfect rock. Climb the tufa and bulging wall to a finish up a slim exposed corner high...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
11
Stan Pulsar
An excellent line up the centre of this fine buttress. Follow Phantom Zone to a side pull at 3m and make fierce moves right to...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
12
Surfing with the Alien
A desperately thin eliminate on a tight line. The route originally finished at a small ledge and single bolt lower-off but it...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
13
Bleep and Booster
A great pitch - if you can do the start! Make a couple of moves up Moonchild before reaching left to some sharp holds that...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
14
Moonchild
A fine and testing pitch. Follow the line of steep grooves and overlaps just right of the base of the buttress, past a jug in...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
15
War of the Worlds
A fine tour of the buttress. Follow Moonchild to a jug and bolt on its left wall and traverse 5m left to the corner of Stan...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
16
Dune
A long and interesting expedition taking in some of the better easier climbing on the Moonchild Buttress. Run-out in places....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
17
The Moon - Loon Connection
A tremendous and demanding link-up of the initial section of Moonchild with the top section of Lunatic in two pitches.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
18
62 West Wallaby Street
Pressing moves in the first 10m lead to a junction with War Hero. Follow this to the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
19
War Hero Top 50
A fine piece of climbing. Follow a short groove and pull left and then right through the bulge to a ledge on Lunatic. Finish up...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
20
Lunatic
A well positioned upper pitch.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
21
Tricky Pricky Ears
Varied climbing and superb positions on the headwall.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
22
Darth Vadar
An impressive pitch that has a serious feel to it.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
23
Maboulisme Merveilleux
An impressive pitch which is very slow to dry. Start by scrambling up the vegetated gully for 10m. Tackle very steep territory...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL HEAD SCAR

    Android
    "Changed from 5c *** to E4 5c ***, 84% of 6 votes for E4" 18/Nov

    62 West Wallaby Street
    "Better bolts, tree branch gone..still tough!" 21/Sep

    Perverse Pepere
    "A very good route, perfect rock, interesting climbing , nicely bolted and worth ..." 23/Aug

    Reefer Madness
    "more of a micro turd than a gem. not a warm up and not very pleasant." 28/Jun

    Bleep and Booster
    "There was a new direct finish done a while ago, makes much more sense and stripp..." 23/Jul

    Stretchy Perineum
    "Nice route,bit of a ramble after the first half but very enjoyable. Hard 7b+" 13/Jul

    Zantom Phone
    "A great wall climb if slightly spoiled by the line forcing left of finger jugs o..." 24/Jun

    The Route of All Evil
    "I found the line of this route rather confusing. I thought it went up the groove..." 13/Jun

    More Games
    "We thought this route was 7b+. Ian & Rob" 12/Jun

    The Route of All Evil
    "Climbed this with the middle section of Mid Air Collision which is a superb 7a+ ..." 08/Jun

    Tricky Pricky Ears
    "Excellent climbing in some great positions on very good rock. Spoilt slightly by..." 28/May

    Gilbert Cardigan
    "7a seems fair" 18/May

    The Route of All Evil
    "This route is now fully bolted. We need to take an old one out from the top. Ian..." 19/Mar

    Tufa King Hard
    "Rather appealing route although the clipping finish is all a bit Euro-sport. Not..." 23/Oct top50

    Stan Pulsar
    "Quality route - mid 7b plus with some hard moves pulling into the groove. wouldn..." 01/Jun

    Stretchy Perineum
    "This is now a great route when combined with Perverse Pepere. The crux bulge is ..." 30/Apr

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