Papy on Sight

Adjacent Areas
< Le Belvédère de la Carelle  |  Pichenibule >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Roadside
5 mins
Abseil
Sheltered

0


Right under the Belvˇd¸re de la Carelle is a steep wall that faces up the gorge and flanked by easier rock on both sides. There is a spread of grades on offer here from amenable orange-spot routes on the slabbier face to desperate expeditions on the steepest wall. Guidebook page 238.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Polpett
Loop right to avoid the vicious original (7a) starts.
 
2 Stars
6b+
2
Eclopante (P10)
The centre of the grey wall trending left towards the top. Yes, there are 9 pitches below - 6b max with a couple of aid...
 
2 Stars
6a
3
Cercopithèque
1) 6c+, 2) 6b+. The right-hand side of the wall, starting just left of the prominent white streak.
 
2 Stars
6c+
4
Scoumoune
Start as for La Baraka but break right onto the wall after 7m.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
5
Papy on Sight
A classic from the dawn of sport climbing - courtesy of Patrick Edlinger who bolted it as an open project in 1983. Sadly this...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7b+
6
Je suis une légende
 
2 Stars
7a
7
Mami nova
The left-most line on the face.
 
1 Stars
5+
8
Face au public
1) 5+, 2) 5+. One long or two short abseils get you to the wildly-positioned start. The initial moves of the second pitch are...
 
2 Stars
5+
9
Opera verticouenne
Start from the lowest belay on the slab and pass the left-hand edge of the large white scar. The bulge is well supplied with...
 
2 Stars
5+
10
Tarpet farceur
From the same belay, pass the right-hand side of the white scar. Steady climbing with only a couple of trickier moves.
 
2 Stars
5+
11
A moi les vivantes
Trend right then climb the face - spaced bolts!
 
Fluttery
5+
12
Tarsinge l'homme zan
The right-hand line here starts from a tiny stance.
 5+
13
Wall of Woodoo
1) 8a+, 2) 6b+. Start from a hanging stance on the lip of the void.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
8a+
14
Abnegation
Another desperate trip back from the edge. Finish up the next route.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7c+
15
Biscotte margarine
The continuation of Abnegation is a classic in its own right. A route with reverse exposure - the belay is the worst and you...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6b+
16
Wide is Love
Gorge ambience without too much of the commitment - lashings of exposure and sadly plenty of polish too.
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
6a
17
Salta minchia!
Another pitch that starts in the middle of nowhere!
 
2 Stars
6c+