Luna Bong Area

Adjacent Areas
< La Demande  |  Le Paroi du Duc >

Sport
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill
Abseil
Sheltered

Powerful lines, great rock, easy access (if you like hairy abseils) and of course some classic climbs. Guidebook page 248.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Massacre a la tronçoneuse
1) 6b, 2) 5. With 60m ropes, linking the first 2 pitches of this short route gives a superb and pumpy 6b. Take care with rope...
 
3 Stars
6b
2
Baiser sanglant
1) 6b+, 2) 6c+, 3) 5+. From the start of Massacre, a difficult rightwards traverse (small cams useful) leads to a wild, hanging...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
3
Le triomphe d'Eros
1) 6c, 2) 6b+, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 6c. The long groove-system to the west of the abseil line. Follow the groove for three long...
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Nos amis des betes
1) 6b, 2) 6b, 3) 6b+. Continuing straight up the groove is an easier, but less satisfying finish.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
6b+
5
Luna bong
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 6c. Heading back up the line of the abseil gives fine and butch climbing up a powerful...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Graunchy
6c
6
Nécronomicon Top 50
1) 6c, 2) 6a. Accessed by the first two abseils down Luna bong. This route follows a striking crack line splitting the elegant...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
7
Troglobule
1) 3, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b, 4) 7b, 5) 6b+, 6) 6b+, 7) 5+. The next of the big groove systems. The fourth pitch is superb; an unusual...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
7b
8
Caca boudin
1) 6c+, 2) 6a+, 3) 7a+, 4) 7a+, 5) 7a, 6) 5+. Spectacular and sustained, on great rock weaving up the huge buttress on the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a+
9
Douce sublimation
1) 7a+, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b, 4) 6c, 5) 6c, 6) 5. Another soaring groove-line, with sustained climbing once the groove is reached. The...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
10
Eperon sublime
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b, 6) 6b & A1, 7) 6a+, 8) 5. Sublime indeed, a bit polished with it, but still sublime! Carry...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b