Luna Bong Area

Adjacent Areas
< La Demande  |  Le Paroi du Duc >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 mins
Abseil
Sheltered

0


Powerful lines, great rock, easy access (if you like hairy abseils) and of course some classic climbs. Guidebook page 248.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Massacre a la tronçoneuse Top 50
1) 6b, 2) 5. With 60m ropes, linking the first 2 pitches of this short route gives a superb and pumpy 6b. Take care with rope...
 
3 Stars
6b
2
Baiser sanglant
1) 6b+, 2) 6c+, 3) 5+. From the start of Massacre, a difficult rightwards traverse (small cams useful) leads to a wild, hanging...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
3
Le triomphe d'Eros
1) 6c, 2) 6b+, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 6c. The long groove-system to the west of the abseil line. Follow the groove for three long...
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Nos amis des betes
1) 6b, 2) 6b, 3) 6b+. Continuing straight up the groove is an easier, but less satisfying finish.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
6b+
5
Luna bong
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 6c. Heading back up the line of the abseil gives fine and butch climbing up a powerful...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Graunchy
6c
6
Nécronomicon
1) 6c, 2) 6a. Accessed by the first two abseils down Luna bong. This route follows a striking crack line splitting the elegant...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
7
Troglobule
1) 3, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b, 4) 7b, 5) 6b+, 6) 6b+, 7) 5+. The next of the big groove systems. The fourth pitch is superb; an unusual...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
7b
8
Caca boudin
1) 6c+, 2) 6a+, 3) 7a+, 4) 7a+, 5) 7a, 6) 5+. Spectacular and sustained, on great rock weaving up the huge buttress on the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
7a+
9
Douce sublimation
1) 7a+, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b, 4) 6c, 5) 6c, 6) 5. Another soaring groove-line, with sustained climbing once the groove is reached. The...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
10
Eperon sublime Top 50
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b, 6) 6b & A1, 7) 6a+, 8) 5. Sublime indeed, a bit polished with it, but still sublime! Carry...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b