Adjacent Areas
< Petit Canyon | None >
Sport
Morning sun
Up and Down
20 mins0
An impressive rift of red volcanic rock, pocketed and rough, with occasional loose patches. The area has been a terrain d'aventure for many years but more recently the best of the routes have been fully bolted. It is certainly a bit different from your usual Euro-limestone sport crags. Only a selection of the routes has been included here. Guidebook page 278.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Pépin le Bref 1) 5+, 2) 5. Excellent climbing up cracks and grooves. Both pitches are about 20m long and are well equipped. Start up a... | 3 Stars | 5+ |
2 |
Les caprices du colon 1) 6a+, 2) 5+, 3) 5, 4) 6a. One of the great classics of the area, varied, interesting and well protected too. Four short... | 3 Stars | 6a+ |
3 |
Pétomania 1) 6a, 2) 6b, 3) 6c, 4) 5. Another of the gorges must-do outings. Four 20m pitches feature escalating difficulties and... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
4 |
Les fêtes des pets 1) 6a, 2) 6b, 3) 6b, 4) 6b. A right-hand (or direct if you are being pedantic) finish to Pétomania, also offers a great and... | 3 Stars | 6b |
5 |
Pim Pam Prout 1) 6c, 2) 7b+. Just right of the left-hand water-streak. The second pitch features one very hard move - a quick tire à clou... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
6 |
Hip Hop 1) 6c, 2) 6c. Another fine sustained climb with two big pitches, starting up the next major water-streak. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
7 |
Les papas sautent sur Claude Vexy Traverse left from the previous climb, or abseil in. | 3 Stars | 6c+ |
8 |
Crepitus | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
9 |
Je t'escagasse | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
10 |
La famille en "R" 1) 6c+, 2) 6b, 3) 7b+. A thrilling trip up the wall and hanging shield of rock, up and left of the cave. | 3 Stars Technical | 7b |
11 |
Acidogène | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8b |
12 |
Homo erectus | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
13 |
Saperlipopette | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a+ |
14 |
Trois petits pets et pouis sent bon 1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6a+. Off the beaten track! | 2 Stars | 6b |