Southeast Face

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 mins

0


The main event of the Estérel - a fine set of multi-pitch climbs, following strong natural lines and generally on good rock. From the col at the left-hand toe of the cliff, a rough track leads down and rightwards, along the base of the wall. Most of the routes have their names painted on the rock, and are equipped with substantial glue-in bolts. Guidebook page 284.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Voie de lsingle straight quotearête
The cracks up the arete. A few old pegs mark the way.
 4+
2
Passage du toit
1) 4, 2) 6a. The groove leads to a stance below the roof, which gives a short struggle. Take a rack to back up the old gear.
 
1 Stars
Strong
6a
3
Patrick déglingue
1) 5+, 2) 6a. A line up the grooves left of the huge arete with a stance in the cave. Take a rack to back up the old gear.
 
1 Stars
6a
4
Agir ou séduire
The arete of the world; wild climbing in an outrageous position.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
5
En attendent God Off
1) 5+, 2) 6c. A decent first pitch leads to the base of the huge groove and a stance over on the left. Tackle the scooped...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
6
Profit au Tyrol
1) 5+, 2) 5+. Classic! The lower wall is quite fingery to start then eases. The upper corner gives superb jamming and bridgin....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
7
Gaston rebiffe-Toi!
1) 5+, 2) 6a. Trend right to a good stance under the upper corner then continue up this, transferring left for a wild exit up...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
8
La Directe
1) 6a+, 2) 5+. Plugs a gap that heads past a diagonal overlap for a stance under the central groove-system. Start up this, then...
 
3 Stars
6a+
9
La Directissime
1) 6b, 2) 5+. Another major line. The lower pitch is the hard one, the upper one is excellent, despite the scratchy shrubbery.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
10
Nico
1) 6a, 2) 6b+, 3) 5+. The central line on the face in three pitches of around 20m each. Protected by parabolts, not glue-ins.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
6b+
11
Voie du surplomb
1) 5, 2) 6b, 3) 5. The major groove-line cutting through the left-hand side of the huge roof is a classic in the old sense of...
 
3 Stars
Strong
6b
12
La chevauchée des vaches qui rient
1) 6a, 2) 5. Two good pitches. A long first one and short second lead to a lower-off under the final steep bulges.
 
3 Stars
6a
13
Les aveaux infidèles
An excellent single-pitch route. 35m and 11 clips.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
14
Reynolds aux 8000 coleurs
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5. The last route on the crag visits some interesting spots. Start up a slabby groove, then head up and...
 
2 Stars
5+