South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
12 mins
Sheltered

0


A fine lump of granite with as sunny an aspect as the name suggests. With a short approach and a well-bolted selection of climbs across a spread of grades, this is the most popular crag in the area. It is occasionally invaded by local school groups and can get busy. Guidebook page 288.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The roux pètent chaud
The short wall leads to a strugglesome crack. Quite intimidating, but well bolted and low in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
6a
2
L'an 01
The left-hand side of the pillar gives a good fingery pitch.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
3
Trois zobs sur un coup fin
A bit of an eliminate.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
4
Pilier de Soleil
The classic of the crag and top-end of the grade, with sustained pumpy climbing, and the fingery crux right at the top.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
5+
5
Le plan qui vient de la Guinée
 3+
6
L'avidité du concierge
 
1 Stars
4
7
Les rossignols du caroubier
The groove on the right is quite awkward and often wet.
 
1 Stars
4+
8
Jet set clafouti
A worthwhile lower pitch (5) leads to thin and steep moves to access the slab and a high lower-off.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
9
Le factum du recteur
Sustained and pleasant - amusing name too!
 
2 Stars
4
10
Bento
A pleasant climb up the lower wall, with maybe a step right to outflank the bulge, reaches a lower-off under steeper rock. The...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5
11
Va comprendre Charles
Nice sustained work up the groove and steep little wall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5
12
Mirliton productions
Another little gem, with good sustained moves and a finale that is steep and pushy for the grade.
 
2 Stars
Strong
4
13
Numero uno
A little route to nowhere, with one steep move.
 3
14
RER
Long and excellent - perhaps the perfect beginners' sport climb, with loads of bolts and lovely sustained climbing.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
3+
15
Petit Pimouss
The teeny slab on the right.
 2+
16
Viol au-dessus d'un nid de cocus
Start up the previous route or by soloing the scrubby groove on the right. Climb the left-hand side of the cave then swing out...
 
2 Stars
Strong
6a