Adjacent Areas
< L'Hermitage | Cayenne >
0
A super-steep crag (originally known as Pupuce Surplomb ) with a massive collection of hard to very hard routes - you need to be operating in the 8s to make the most of a visit here, though the talent will be rewarded by some amazing climbs. Everybody now calls it Deverse. Deverse Satanique (8a) and Dies Irae (8a+) as the best natural routes (sharing the same start) above the blocks at the left. Most other routes have some chipped pockets. Obviously very steep, the routes are real tests of power and endurance, because there are not many rests. Soul Sacrifice (8b, equipped by Philip Maurel) is one of the best of this type. Here a selection of the best of the 40+ routes and variations. Guidebook page 300.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Deverse satanique The start is a hard 7b (chain on the right). Continue up the difficult pink tufa to good knee-bars. Continue direct, from here... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
2 |
Dies Irae Follow Deverse Satanique to the knee-bar rest then trend diagonally right across the leaning wall with difficulty. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
3 |
Mekanik destruktif Traditionally given 7c, but worth 7c+. Polished, the warm up! 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong | 7c+ |
4 |
Soul Sacrifice Hard for the grade. The extension is Last Soul Sacrifice, 8c. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8b |
5 |
Les maux de la fin Top 50 Known as Qoussai, 8a+ to the first chain. Long and unrelenting. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8c |
6 |
Trip Tik to Nik | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8c+ |
7 |
Super Tango The extension is Tango To Nik, 8c. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a+ |
8 |
Abyss | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 9a |
9 |
Caligula Back to normal climbing. 7c+ to the first chain. | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8a |
10 |
La ligne noire 7a+ to the first chain, 8a to the second. | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8a+ |
11 |
Once I had a Friend A tough 7b to the first chain. | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8a |
12 |
Pas vu pas pris 7b+/7c to the first chain, 7c+ to the second. | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8a |
13 |
Turbinator Top 50 The obvious tufa, then right to a tricky finish. The direct start is Vigor, 8a. | 3 Stars Strong | 7c+ |