Deverse

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Sheltered

A super-steep crag (originally known as Pupuce Surplomb ) with a massive collection of hard to very hard routes - you need to be operating in the 8s to make the most of a visit here, though the talent will be rewarded by some amazing climbs. Everybody now calls it Deverse. Deverse Satanique (8a) and Dies Irae (8a+) as the best natural routes (sharing the same start) above the blocks at the left. Most other routes have some chipped pockets. Obviously very steep, the routes are real tests of power and endurance, because there are not many rests. Soul Sacrifice (8b, equipped by Philip Maurel) is one of the best of this type. Here a selection of the best of the 40+ routes and variations.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Deverse satanique
The start is a hard 7b (chain on the right). Continue up the difficult pink tufa to good knee-bars. Continue direct, from here...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
2
Dies Irae
Follow Deverse Satanique to the knee-bar rest then trend diagonally right across the leaning wall with difficulty.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
3
Mekanik destruktif
Traditionally given 7c, but worth 7c+. Polished, the warm up!
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c+
4
Soul Sacrifice
Hard for the grade. The extension is Last Soul Sacrifice, 8c.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
5
Les maux de la fin
Known as Qoussai, 8a+ to the first chain. Long and unrelenting.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c
6
Trip Tik to Nik
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
7
Super Tango
The extension is Tango To Nik, 8c.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
8
Abyss
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
9a
9
Caligula
Back to normal climbing. 7c+ to the first chain.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
10
La ligne noire
7a+ to the first chain, 8a to the second.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
11
Once I had a Friend
A tough 7b to the first chain.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
12
Pas vu pas pris
7b+/7c to the first chain, 7c+ to the second.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
13
Turbinator
The obvious tufa, then right to a tricky finish. The direct start is Vigor, 8a.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c+