Cayenne

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
Downhill
32 mins
Seepage
Sheltered

0


This steep crag is home to 20+ steep routes/variations up some fine tufa-encrusted walls. They get afternoon shade and offer some climbing in the rain, at least until the seepage sets in. An 80m rope is needed for the longest climbs. Guidebook page 303.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
No Name
A pleasant warm up. Be aware of the detached block near the top.
 
1 Stars
Loose
6c
2
No Name II
The wall just right gives an interesting route with good moves.
 
2 Stars
7a
3
La legende de bibi-phoque
Thin and technical moves up the narrow groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
4
Zitounette
A great little climb.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
5
Et on finit en sardaigne
A frustrating climb that is virtually impossible for short people. Move right out of Zitounette via very long reaches.
 
Reachy
Pumpy
7c
6
A strap titi
A really bizarre line but with great moves. Lots of bolts.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
7
Poulets Boulets
Very good and varied climbing.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b
8
Sika casse couilles Top 50
A good introduction to the harder routes, offering some difficult climbing interspersed with very good rests.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
9
Welcome to the Jungle
A brilliant and varied route.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
10
Cedric n'aime pas les slashs
An excellent leftwards variation finish to Cayenne.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
11
Cayenne
The classic of the crag offering very steep and pumpy climbing on surprisingly good holds. The crux section can be climbed...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
12
Cayenne fufu
Continue past the chain of Cayenne to join and finish up the best section of Hong Kong Fufu on natural holds.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
13
Hong Kong Fufu
A very poor route, due to some appalling chipped holds on the lower section.
 8b
14
Shakti
A contender for the best of its grade in the region, however, it can stay wet for a very long time after heavy rain. There is a...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
15
Mesquinieres
Very hard work on the skin. It is 8a if you lower off from the belay on Incinerator 31.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
16
Incinerator 31
Short and very powerful.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
17
September noir
A difficult start leads to the bulges above and a precarious finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
18
Dieu ne joue pas aux des
From the rest on Septembre Noir, move right to follow the intermittent tufas via some long reaches. There is also an extension...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
19
Holy Chicken Salad
Interesting climbing leads to a difficult finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
20
Palmasoutra
Climb the technical corner, moving right at the top.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
21
Kokopeli
A great and varied little route up the tufas and slab to the right of Palmasoutra.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
22
Marc Attack
Similar to Kokopeli, but more fingery.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
23
Inconnu l'Orient Express
A devious line with good moves, up the corner to the right.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+