Jurassic Park

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
30 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Sheltered

The right-hand of these two popular crags is home to another 40 routes/variations on the steep and devious themes up and impressive tufa encrusted wall. The cliff get afternoon shade and offers some climbing in the rain, at least until the seepage sets in. An 80m is needed for the longest climbs. Guidebook page 304.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Jurassic Back
A good, though often dirty route up the high buttress just left of the main cliff. The difficulties consist of three bulges...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
2
Le farceur d'erosion
An interesting start followed by much easier climbing above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
3
Perfotactyle
A superb pitch on perfect rock that gets progressively harder the higher you get. The penultimate bolt is very tricky to clip...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
4
La proue
The left-hand extension to Perfotactyle goes up the wildly overhanging prow. It is 7c+ to the middle lower-off and 8a all the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
5
Paleolactique
The middle extension above Perfotactyle, past several chipped and sika'd holds on the difficult upper section.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
6
Prisetorique Top 50
The better right-hand finish above Perfotactyle, with a difficult section in the middle on undercuts, and an exquisite...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
7
Thermatactique
A difficult, technical pitch, which is the start for the next climb.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
8
La queue du diable
The best of the hard routes climbs the wildly overhanging dark tufas above Thermatactique.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
9
Homo sa pince
Climb up to the smooth tufa, which is tackled on the right, to a difficult finish lurching right again for the hidden hold.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7b
10
Diplodocus 1
One of the best 6c's on the Côte d'Azur goes up the wall and tufa The chipped holds were created many years ago by people who...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
11
Diplodocus 2
The direct continuation climbs into the hole (hands-off rest), followed by exposed moves to a difficult sequence to gain the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
12
Diplodocus 3
For the full tick, make a difficult exit from the small hole to a knee-bar rest on the right, then traverse left and up...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
13
Tamaka
A very difficult pitch left of Diplodocus 2 that joins and finishes up Diplodocus 3, a massive reach from an undercut mono...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
14
Grand tamaka
Continue with great difficulty past the belay of Diplodocus 3.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
15
Le dernier empereur
Climb Tamaka to Diplodocus 3, reverse this to the knee-bar rest, then follow the line of bolts and chipped holds above.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
16
L'Homme du neant des dalles
A brilliant route up the tufa right of Diplodocus 1, which is easier if you can find the knee-bars. Low in the grade.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
17
Cro-minus
You'll either love or hate the extension of l'Homme du neant des dalles, which tackles the horrendous overhang and tufa to the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
18
Stonehenge
An obscure climb that goes rightward from Cro-minus.
 
Strong
Pumpy
8b
19
No name
A new climb that goes up the wall right of l'Homme du neant des dalles to finish up Psychopat.
 
Technical
Strong
8b
20
No name
Another new climb, which follows the big tufa then traverses left to finish up l'Homme du Neant des Dalles.
 
Technical
Strong
7c
21
Psychopat
A brilliant route that is so much better than it looks. Unrelentingly steep, but always on good holds. Step off the large pile...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
22
Crokus
If you've managed to do Cro-minus in decent style you may as well continue along Diplodocus 3!
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
23
Crokusaka
If you've managed Crokus, you might as well continue up Grand tamaka, but then maybe notÉ.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
24
Cro-magnon
A combo of Cro-minus followed by Le dernier empereur.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
25
La grotte a nounours
The dirty overhang above the same start as Psychopat.
 
Technical
Strong
8b+
26
Zubble
The same start, followed by very hard climbing rightwards.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c+
27
Enzubble
The extension to Zubble moves left across the leaning wall to finish along the final traverse of Psychopat.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
9a
28
Nounours a la discoteca
Follow the blue bolts up the very steep bulge with a desperate move using an undercut for your right hand.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8b
29
Calme ta joie
A steep start, followed by fingery climbing left of the rope ladder.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
30
La discoteca
Continue through the massive overhang above.
 
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
31
Golgoth 13
Climb up the rope ladder and then try to execute a very difficult sequence of moves to gain the lip, continue if you've...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
32
Total Minus
A connection, linking Golgoth 13 and Cro-minus.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c
33
La totalite
Another connection, linking Golgoth 13, Cro-minus and Le dernier empereur.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
34
La côte obscur
When you've done everything else, why not do this connection, which links Golgoth 13, Cro-minus, Diplodocus 3 and Grand Tamaka.
 
2 Stars
8c+
35
Predator
A poor route lurking under the ivy.
 8a
36
Amazonia
The overhang on the left after traversing out of the groove of Amazonia directe.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
37
Amazonia directe
The steep wall and groove direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
38
Australopicotheque
The start is hard, but the finish is easier and more enjoyable.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
39
Lucy
The same start as Winnibyd with a very difficult finish.
 
Technical
7a+