The Great Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The main central section of Great Buttress ranks with the best that UK limestone has to offer whilst its wings have a selection of lesser but still worthwhile routes. Unfortunately it is the last section of the crag to dry out. Guidebook page 365.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sad But True
20m. The left-hand bolted line.
 
Technical
6c+
2
Half Life Direct
20m. The central bolted line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
Up Town
20m. The right-hand bolted line starts up the prominent short tufa and is on glue-in ring bolts.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Shades of Mediocrity
15m. A pleasant pitch but watch out for some poor rock just prior to the lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
5
Gilbert Cardigan
15m. Up the big fat tufa, take deep breath and head straight up to a tricky finish. Watch out for some poor rock at the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
6
Guloot Kalagna
16m. Knarly and technical desperation is followed by steep moves and a sting in the tail. A wicked pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
7
Electric Warrior Top 50
10m. Smart tufa climbing to a lower-off beneath the large overhang. A very good pitch which takes a bit of time for the bottom...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
8
Agent Provocateur
8m. Extend Electric Warrior over the large overhang.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c
9
Calling Mr Hall Top 50
18m. Hard climbing all the way to the lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
10
Wargames Top 50
24m. This fantastic route ranks as one of the best of its grade in the country. The steep lower section gives dynamic climbing...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
11
More Games
24m. A tougher start to Wargames which, although not as good as the original, is well worth doing if only so that you can enjoy...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
12
Stretchy Perineum Top 50
9m. A good way up the lower wall when dry. Combined with Perverse Pepere this gives a direct and very tricky pitch.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
13
Perverted Start
9m. Another viscious start leading to Perverse Pepere.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
14
For When the Tree Falls
7m. A tad more difficult than wobbling up the tree!
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
15
Android Top 50
25m. One of the UKs great limestone traditional pitches. Suberbly positioned, perfect rock and an unusual start give this...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
16
Perverse Pepere Top 50
22m. One of the first of the modern routes up the blanker section of the Great Buttress. Sparsely bolted, but a few wires and a...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a
17
A Song for Europe Top 50
21m. A fine and direct line taking in some alluring but sharp tufas. Once established on the rock above the tree, technical...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
18
La Mangoustine Scatouflange Top 50
20m. A great pitch with a bouldery crux. Once established on the rock above the tree head up and right to a blank section. A...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a
19
Super Dupont Top 50
20m. Pleasure and pain are both dished out in large amounts on this fine route. A prickly romp up the holly tree gives access...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
20
Super Duper Dupont Top 50
20m. A magnificent line with climbing to match. Above the thin crux of Super Dupont the curving overlap is followed to some big...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
21
Prime Evil Top 50
20m. Another Chapel Head masterpiece. A high crux followed by some strenuous arm work which has seen many failures.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7c+
22
Unrighteous Doctors Top 50
24m. A huge right-to-left sweeping line incorporating a good deal of hard climbing. The route starts just left of the large yew...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
23
Tufa King Hard
13m. Nowhere near as bad as its name would suggest! The curving line of tufas just right of the large yew tree provide some big...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
24
Driller Killer Top 50
20m. A strange but worthwhile excursion. Be warned: the tree is a bit of a pain when lowering off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
25
Videodrome
17m. A good route with a painful lower-off through the tree.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
26
Warm Push
8m. For a tiddler this little pitch packs a mean punch. Once wired a surprising number of variations exist.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
27
Reefer Madness
8m. A real micro gem.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
28
Doctor's Dilemma
8m. One for the enthusiast, bored or just plain sad!
 
Crimpy
6b+
29
Cosmic Dancer
A long left-to-right rising traverse of the Great Buttress taking in some of its best situations.1) 7b, 15m. Start up...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7b
  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL HEAD SCAR

    62 West Wallaby Street
    "Better bolts, tree branch gone..still tough!" 21/Sep

    Perverse Pepere
    "A very good route, perfect rock, interesting climbing , nicely bolted and worth ..." 23/Aug top50

    Reefer Madness
    "more of a micro turd than a gem. not a warm up and not very pleasant." 28/Jun

    Bleep and Booster
    "There was a new direct finish done a while ago, makes much more sense and stripp..." 23/Jul top50

    Stretchy Perineum
    "Nice route,bit of a ramble after the first half but very enjoyable. Hard 7b+" 13/Jul top50

    Zantom Phone
    "A great wall climb if slightly spoiled by the line forcing left of finger jugs o..." 24/Jun top50

    The Route of All Evil
    "I found the line of this route rather confusing. I thought it went up the groove..." 13/Jun top50

    More Games
    "We thought this route was 7b+. Ian & Rob" 12/Jun

    The Route of All Evil
    "Climbed this with the middle section of Mid Air Collision which is a superb 7a+ ..." 08/Jun top50

    Tricky Pricky Ears
    "Excellent climbing in some great positions on very good rock. Spoilt slightly by..." 28/May

    Gilbert Cardigan
    "7a seems fair" 18/May

    The Route of All Evil
    "This route is now fully bolted. We need to take an old one out from the top. Ian..." 19/Mar top50

    Tufa King Hard
    "Rather appealing route although the clipping finish is all a bit Euro-sport. Not..." 23/Oct

    Stan Pulsar
    "Quality route - mid 7b plus with some hard moves pulling into the groove. wouldn..." 01/Jun top50

    Stretchy Perineum
    "This is now a great route when combined with Perverse Pepere. The crux bulge is ..." 30/Apr top50

    Tricky Pricky Ears
    "Triky prick ears has now been fully bolted by myself and Toby Denny. The consens..." 23/Mar

    Android
    "Old Timer!! You cheeky ba****d .... I nearly choked on my ovaltine! Ed" 27/Dec top50

    Tufa King Hard
    "Really nice route, shame about the finish." 20/Jun

    Shades of Mediocrity
    "Really cool route. Some sustained and sequencey moves, rewards those who can han..." 20/Jun

    Android
    "Brilliant pitch ..... awesome find and amazing what these old timers could do." 23/Nov top50

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