Adjacent Areas
< Great Wall | None >
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
10 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
Restricted Access
No climbing 1 March to 30 June
The main central section of Great Buttress ranks with the best that UK limestone has to offer whilst its wings have a selection of lesser but still worthwhile routes. Unfortunately it is the last section of the crag to dry out. Guidebook page 365.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sad But True 20m. The left-hand bolted line. | Technical | 6c+ |
2 |
Half Life Direct 20m. The central bolted line. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
3 |
Up Town 20m. The right-hand bolted line starts up the prominent short tufa and is on glue-in ring bolts. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
4 |
Shades of Mediocrity 15m. A pleasant pitch but watch out for some poor rock just prior to the lower-off. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
5 |
Gilbert Cardigan 15m. Up the big fat tufa, take deep breath and head straight up to a tricky finish. Watch out for some poor rock at the top. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
6 |
Guloot Kalagna 16m. Knarly and technical desperation is followed by steep moves and a sting in the tail. A wicked pitch. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c |
7 |
Electric Warrior Top 50 10m. Smart tufa climbing to a lower-off beneath the large overhang. A very good pitch which takes a bit of time for the bottom... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | 7b |
8 |
Agent Provocateur 8m. Extend Electric Warrior over the large overhang. | 2 Stars Strong Crimpy | 7c |
9 |
Calling Mr Hall Top 50 18m. Hard climbing all the way to the lower-off. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a |
10 |
Wargames Top 50 24m. This fantastic route ranks as one of the best of its grade in the country. The steep lower section gives dynamic climbing... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7a+ |
11 |
More Games 24m. A tougher start to Wargames which, although not as good as the original, is well worth doing if only so that you can enjoy... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7b |
12 |
Stretchy Perineum Top 50 9m. A good way up the lower wall when dry. Combined with Perverse Pepere this gives a direct and very tricky pitch. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
13 |
Perverted Start 9m. Another viscious start leading to Perverse Pepere. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
14 |
For When the Tree Falls 7m. A tad more difficult than wobbling up the tree! | Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
15 |
Android Top 50 25m. One of the UK’s great limestone traditional pitches. Suberbly positioned, perfect rock and an unusual start give this... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
16 |
Perverse Pepere Top 50 22m. One of the first of the modern routes up the blanker section of the Great Buttress. Sparsely bolted, but a few wires and a... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7a |
17 |
A Song for Europe Top 50 21m. A fine and direct line taking in some alluring but sharp tufas. Once established on the rock above the tree, technical... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
18 |
La Mangoustine Scatouflange Top 50 20m. A great pitch with a bouldery crux. Once established on the rock above the tree head up and right to a blank section. A... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical | 7a |
19 |
Super Dupont Top 50 20m. Pleasure and pain are both dished out in large amounts on this fine route. A prickly romp up the holly tree gives access... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
20 |
Super Duper Dupont Top 50 20m. A magnificent line with climbing to match. Above the thin crux of Super Dupont the curving overlap is followed to some big... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
21 |
Prime Evil Top 50 20m. Another Chapel Head masterpiece. A high crux followed by some strenuous arm work which has seen many failures. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Strong | 7c+ |
22 |
Unrighteous Doctors Top 50 24m. A huge right-to-left sweeping line incorporating a good deal of hard climbing. The route starts just left of the large yew... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c+ |
23 |
Tufa King Hard 13m. Nowhere near as bad as its name would suggest! The curving line of tufas just right of the large yew tree provide some big... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
24 |
Driller Killer Top 50 20m. A strange but worthwhile excursion. Be warned: the tree is a bit of a pain when lowering off. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
25 |
Videodrome 17m. A good route with a painful lower-off through the tree. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 7b+ |
26 |
Warm Push 8m. For a tiddler this little pitch packs a mean punch. Once wired a surprising number of variations exist. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b+ |
27 |
Reefer Madness 8m. A real micro gem. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
28 |
Doctor's Dilemma 8m. One for the enthusiast, bored or just plain sad! | Crimpy | 6b+ |
29 |
Cosmic Dancer A long left-to-right rising traverse of the Great Buttress taking in some of its best situations.1) 7b, 15m. Start up... | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7b |
