The Great Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The Great Buttress is one of the UK's finest limestone crags that is plastered with fantastic sport climbs. The tufas seep after prolonged rainfall but once dry climbing in the rain is possible.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sad But True
The left-hand bolted line has some shattered rock in places.
 
Technical
6c+
2
Half Life Direct
The central bolted line moving right to finish on Up Town. Climbing direct at the top is 6c+.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
3
Up Town
The right-hand bolted line is a very good and open pitch once beyond the tree branches. Start up the prominent short tufa (this...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
4
Witherslack Alice
Start at a small tree stump right of the corner below the yew tree. Make hard moves to an easing level with the yew tree, and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
5
Witherslack Town
The link-up of Witherslack Alice and Up Town gives a fine pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
6
Shades of Mediocrity
A pleasant pitch that starts off of a tufa stump and heads left past an overlap before moving up and back right to a lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
7
Gilbert Cardigan
Up the big fat tufa, take a deep breath and head straight up to a tricky finish.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
8
Guloot Kalagna
Gnarly and technical desperation is followed by steep moves and a sting in the tail. A wicked pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
9
Electric Warrior
Smart tufa climbing to a lower-off beneath the large overhang. A very good pitch that takes a while for the bottom to dry out.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b
10
Agent Provocateur
Extend Electric Warrior over the large overhang.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c
11
Calling Mr Hall
Hard climbing all the way to the lower-off. Start up the protruding tufa.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
12
Wargames Top 50
This fantastic route ranks as one of the best of its grade in the country. The steep lower section gives dynamic climbing on...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
13
More Games
An alternative start to Wargames which, although not quite as good as the original, is well worth doing if only so that you can...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
14
Stretchy Perineum
An impressive way up the buttress when dry. Climb the tricky lower wall and finish up Perverse Pepere.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
15
Perverted Start
A vicious start leading to and finishing as for Perverse Pepere. Finishing up A Song For Europe gives a fine 7c.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
16
For When the Tree Falls
A tad more difficult than wobbling up the now absent tree! Unpleasant and sharp climbing hence it is usually avoided.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c
17
Android
A route of great character, superbly positioned and on perfect rock. Move up left and traverse left to a peg, now climb direct...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
18
Perverse Pepere
Follow Android to half way across its traverse and then climb directly via some long moves to its final steep flake-crack.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a
19
A Song for Europe
A fine and direct line taking in some alluring but sharp tufas. Move up left and then head to steep shallow tufas directly...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
20
La Mangoustine Scatouflange Top 50
A great pitch with a bouldery crux. Move up left then head up and right to a blank section. A variety of techniques can be used...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
7a+
21
Witherslack Flange Finish
The roof above the lower-off of Mangoustine Scatouflange.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
22
Super Dupont
Pleasure and pain are both dished out in large amounts on this fine route. Climb up and left past a tufa to a very bouldery...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
23
Super Duper Dupont Top 50
A magnificent line with climbing to match. Above the thin crux of Super Dupont the curving overlap is followed by some big...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
24
Prime Evil
Another Chapel Head masterpiece which has seen many failures. A thin lower wall leads to a high crux that is followed by some...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7c+
25
Unrighteous Doctors
A huge right-to-left sweeping line incorporating a good deal of hard climbing. The route starts just left of the large yew...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
26
Doctor Evil
Linking the hard start of Unrighteous Doctors to the powerful upper section of Prime Evil gives an excellent pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
27
Tufa King Hard Top 50
Nowhere near as bad as its name would suggest! The curving line of tufas just right of the large yew tree provides some big...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
28
Driller Killer
A strange but worthwhile excursion crossing Tufa King Hard. Be warned - the tree is a bit of a pain when lowering off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
29
Videodrome
A good route with a painful lower-off through the tree.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
30
Warm Push
For a tiddler this little pitch packs a mean punch. Once wired a surprising number of variations exist.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
31
Reefer Madness
A real micro gem.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
32
Doctor's Dilemma
Extremely thin and technical moves on the far right of the face.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
33
Cosmic Dancer
A long left-to-right rising traverse of the Great Buttress taking in some of its best situations. Not shown on the topo. 1) 7b,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7b
  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL HEAD SCAR

    Android
    "Changed from 5c *** to E4 5c ***, 84% of 6 votes for E4" 18/Nov

    62 West Wallaby Street
    "Better bolts, tree branch gone..still tough!" 21/Sep

    Perverse Pepere
    "A very good route, perfect rock, interesting climbing , nicely bolted and worth ..." 23/Aug

    Reefer Madness
    "more of a micro turd than a gem. not a warm up and not very pleasant." 28/Jun

    Bleep and Booster
    "There was a new direct finish done a while ago, makes much more sense and stripp..." 23/Jul

    Stretchy Perineum
    "Nice route,bit of a ramble after the first half but very enjoyable. Hard 7b+" 13/Jul

    Zantom Phone
    "A great wall climb if slightly spoiled by the line forcing left of finger jugs o..." 24/Jun

    The Route of All Evil
    "I found the line of this route rather confusing. I thought it went up the groove..." 13/Jun

    More Games
    "We thought this route was 7b+. Ian & Rob" 12/Jun

    The Route of All Evil
    "Climbed this with the middle section of Mid Air Collision which is a superb 7a+ ..." 08/Jun

    Tricky Pricky Ears
    "Excellent climbing in some great positions on very good rock. Spoilt slightly by..." 28/May

    Gilbert Cardigan
    "7a seems fair" 18/May

    The Route of All Evil
    "This route is now fully bolted. We need to take an old one out from the top. Ian..." 19/Mar

    Tufa King Hard
    "Rather appealing route although the clipping finish is all a bit Euro-sport. Not..." 23/Oct top50

    Stan Pulsar
    "Quality route - mid 7b plus with some hard moves pulling into the groove. wouldn..." 01/Jun

    Stretchy Perineum
    "This is now a great route when combined with Perverse Pepere. The crux bulge is ..." 30/Apr

    Tricky Pricky Ears
    "Triky prick ears has now been fully bolted by myself and Toby Denny. The consens..." 23/Mar

    Android
    "Old Timer!! You cheeky ba****d .... I nearly choked on my ovaltine! Ed" 27/Dec

    Tufa King Hard
    "Really nice route, shame about the finish." 20/Jun top50

    Shades of Mediocrity
    "Really cool route. Some sustained and sequencey moves, rewards those who can han..." 20/Jun

    Android
    "Brilliant pitch ..... awesome find and amazing what these old timers could do." 23/Nov

    A Song for Europe
    "Spanked? No more than usual. Disappointed, more like... I'd been looking forward..." 24/Aug

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