Les Fées Mères/La Bastille

Adjacent Areas
< The Upper Tier  |  La Knubel >

Sport
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The tilted tower in front of the main cliff has a contrasting set of routes, steep and desperate on the front, slick on the side, slabby and easy on the shady side. Guidebook page 320.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La boite a coucous
The left-hand of two desperate routes on the steep side.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a
2
Gaterie express
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8a
3
Ben annee, ben sante
The slick south face has a couple of tough offerings.
 
2 Stars
6c
4
Les fées meres
 
2 Stars
6b
5
Les fées railleuses
 
1 Stars
5a
6
Les fées, l'action
 
1 Stars
4c
7
Les fées blessent
 
1 Stars
Rounded
4c
8
Les fées rient
 
1 Stars
4a
9
Les fées moral
 
1 Stars
4a
10
Les fées dopent l'air
 
1 Stars
4a
11
Les fées minimes
Round the arete on the north facing wall.
 
3 Stars
5c
12
Gaz naturel
1) 5, 2) 6a. The flaky groove leads past a couple of steep moves to a good stance. The second pitch trends left up the wall...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
13
Bobo au rhum
1) 5, 2) 6a. Use the same first pitch to access fine steep climbing up the front of the tower above the stance.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
14
Serment d'ivrogne
Start up the right-hand crack to reach desperate moves high on the wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
15
Pas vu pas pris
The right-hand line has an even harder crux sequence.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
16
Les petits boudins
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
17
Pet de zebu
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
18
Les sans culottes
 
3 Stars
7c
19
La bastille
The long groove gives great bridging and jamming to a choice of lower-offs - low or high.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a