Main

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
0 mins
Roadside
Sheltered

The Main Area is sited just above the parking area. The routes are mostly pseudo-sport routes - the important gear is fixed, but a few wires are also needed. Guidebook page 370.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sniffing the Saddle
No description included yet.
 
1 Stars
6a+
2
Sniffing the Saddle Direct
14m. Start on the narrow ledge at the far left-hand side of the wall. Climb over the bulge and run-it-out to the bolts on the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
3
Fusion
No description included yet.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
4
Trigger Finger Top 50
16m. A real gem of the crag featuring a technical lower wall and a go-for-it finish. Start at the twin trees. Move up the small...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
5
Shot By Both Sides
16m. A bit of a squeeze-job but with some superbly technical climbing nevertheless. Tenacity and cunning are a pre-requisite as...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
6
Firing Squad
16m. An excellent route worth having a shot at. Perhaps the best climbing at Humphrey Head. Move up to beneath the double bolts...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
Live Rounds
15m. Some hard moves are split by an easy middle section. Nuts protect this easier climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Shooting the Load
16m. Similar to Live Rounds but a touch easier.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
9
Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man Top 50
15m. Tough stuff taking the challenge of the steep pillar in the middle of the buttress. Climb direct to the small pillar...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
10
Stymen
16m. Start left of the sentry box. Climb straight up to the break using some sharp pockets. The next bolt is a way above and is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
6b
11
Pork Pie
15m. As a warm up this is less ferocious than Stymen. Climb into and out of the sentry box (you may want to place a nut). The...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
12
Humphrey Bogart
16m. The rather floral lower half means this route doesn’t qualify for a star, however once over this short section, the...
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For HUMPHREY HEAD

    Trigger Finger
    "I think it was this route i held Mark's ropes on. If it was he fell from the fin..." 23/Nov top50

    Stymen
    "Definately a sandbag at Fr6b, even if you are not short. Could live with E3,6a i..." 04/Sep

    Pork Pie
    "Nice little route which gets progressively harder as you ascend - the crux right..." 16/Jul

    Firing Squad
    "Seems a bit of a sandbag; crap gear to the twin bolts; very E5ish" 04/Nov

    Sniffing the Saddle Direct
    "Definitely take some nuts. Otherwise "run-it-out" means mantle onto a..." 04/Aug

    Trigger Finger
    "Most people go up right to clip the bolts on "shot by both sides" but ..." 16/Jul top50

    Trigger Finger
    "A real gem. For those who refuse to beleive that good limestone exists in the La..." 16/Apr top50

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