Main Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
1 min
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The Main Area is just above the parking spot. The routes are mostly pseudo-sport routes - the important gear is fixed, but a few wires are also needed. The wall is more sheltered than might be expect for a headland and gets plenty of afternoon sun.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sniffing the Saddle
No description included yet.
 
1 Stars
6a+
2
Sniffing the Saddle Direct
Start on the narrow ledge at the far left-hand side of the wall. Climb over the bulge and run-it-out to the bolts on the upper...
1 user comment
 
Technical
6a+
3
Fusion
No description included yet.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
4
Trigger Finger
A real gem featuring a technical lower wall and a go-for-it finish. Start at the twin trees. Move up the small corner and pull...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
5
Shot By Both Sides
A bit of a squeeze-job but with some technical climbing. Tenacity and cunning are prerequisites as well as some wires to back...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
6
Firing Squad
An excellent route with perhaps the best climbing at Humphrey Head. Move up to beneath double bolts right of the tufa. Go up...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
7
Live Rounds
Some hard moves are split by an easy middle section. Nuts protect this easier climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Shooting the Load
Similar to Live Rounds but a touch easier.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
9
Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man
Tough stuff up the steep pillar in the middle of the buttress. Climb direct to the small pillar. Follow the bolts to a butch...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
10
Stymen
Start left of the sentry box. Climb straight up to the break using some sharp pockets. The next bolt is a way above and is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
11
Pork Pie
Less ferocious than Stymen but with plenty of sustained and technical moves. Climb into and out of the sentry box (wire). Above...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
12
Humphrey Bogart
Once over the floral lower section, this route improves dramatically with some great technical moves on thin holds building to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For HUMPHREY HEAD

    Trigger Finger
    "Changed from 5c ** to E2 5c **, 60% of 5 votes for E2" 18/Nov

    Trigger Finger
    "I think it was this route i held Mark's ropes on. If it was he fell from the fin..." 23/Nov

    Stymen
    "Definately a sandbag at Fr6b, even if you are not short. Could live with E3,6a i..." 04/Sep

    Pork Pie
    "Nice little route which gets progressively harder as you ascend - the crux right..." 16/Jul

    Firing Squad
    "Seems a bit of a sandbag; crap gear to the twin bolts; very E5ish" 04/Nov

    Sniffing the Saddle Direct
    "Definitely take some nuts. Otherwise "run-it-out" means mantle onto a..." 04/Aug

    Trigger Finger
    "Most people go up right to clip the bolts on "shot by both sides" but ..." 16/Jul

    Trigger Finger
    "A real gem. For those who refuse to beleive that good limestone exists in the La..." 16/Apr

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